The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

James 55

Please advise on the following. I have removed the radiator on my Pajero as it is leaking. A local radiator specialist shop have told me by phone that they may be able to repair it. However as it is a plastic rad i didnt think this was possible. On searching the Internet I see two different rads are listed for this model. The dimensions are slightly different. I presume both are suitable. Also when I removed the rad two hoses at the base had to be removed resulting in oil loss. i presume this is auto transmission oil. On fitting the new rad I presume the auto transmission fluid will need topping up. Is this the only action that is needed regarding this issue. Even though I lost auto fluid I notice on dipping the auto box the level is actually high.Also what is the correct coolant and quantity for this model. Thanks James 55

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BenKenobi · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 19:55 Post subject:

The repair depends on the leak location.

Can't check auto oil level without engine running, run the engine without the rad and you'll pump the oil all over the floor. I think the rad cooler holds around 0.5 litre

If you break the system as you have you should really flush the auto box i.e. do a proper oil change on it - Diaqueen or Millermatic SPIII - nothing else will do - bet you've left the oil cooler pipe ends all open and exposed to the atmosphere, dust and bugs.

To be honest re the repair I wouldn't bother - for what they cost then in my book new is the only option, I'd measure the old one before committing to replacing - not all E-Bay rads are 'trustworthy' - ya gets wot yer pay for.

James 55

Thanks For your help and advice. I did notice that the rad sizes vary slightly in depth and width. The reason I am considering repairing the rad is the leak is tiny approx 20mm from top of rad. I feel that the quality of this rad may be better than a spurious replacement. If the repair is not advised I will source a rad based on the dimensions of the original. As the rad is now removed I take it you would advise changing the Transmission fluid. I presume a filter exists which may complicate this procedure. Do you advise to change fluid only. On fitting the new rad am I likely to encounter any problems bleeding the cooling system. I did plug the two pipes to avoid contamination. I take your point regarding the level. As you point out. I will not be able to check this level without the engine running. I would appreciate any further advice you can offer before I complete this repair. Thanks again.

BenKenobi · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 23:47 Post subject:

Whether repair is viable depends why it has failed. If it is corrosion related 100% no way repair - that just stores up trouble - if it is because of a mishap with a tool or stone then repair may be possible. If the cause of the damage is unknown then a visual on the condition internal and external is the only way to judge. Of course if a new Rad is £200 and a repaired one £100 I know what I'd do but as you say a repaired original may be of better quality than a cheap replacement.

I'm not aware of any filter that requires changing, there's a strainer but it isn't a 'service' item. A lot depends on the condition of the oil and how likely it is that contamination got in, it isn't a cheap task and I know some choke on it. Once done though then you know it's done and since you have the oil cooler drained you're half way there - since the Mitsubishi process requires disconnection of the cooler to pump the old oil out. If you're confident that the oil's good then top up by small amounts - I'm guessing you didn't measure the amount of oil that came out.

Well done on plugging the pipes, many fail to do that.

tom fenton · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 0:04 Post subject:

I fitted a replacement new pattern rad to my mk3. It's a straightforward enough job, remove the fan cowl and fan for better access. Be warned not all pattern rads are equal- the first I was supplied had the bottom hose connection at the wrong location and angle meaning I couldn't fit the lower hose without kinking it. To be fair the place I bought it from sent me another the next day which fitted fine.
I would say it's worth fitting new, my old one was fitted up inside and meant the engine was running hot when working it hard towing. Since fitting new rad (and water pump & thermostat whilst there) it's been a ok.

James 55 · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 0:12 Post subject:

I agree it would be wise to change the oil, as you say I am half way there now. When I get the rad I will let you know how I get on ?. I didn't buy the 4x4 new so I cant be sure when or if it was ever changed. It has 128 Km on clock now so I think the wise thing is to change it. I will purchase the oil as recommended by you from a local Mitsubishi dealer. Thanks again for your valuable assistance.

assassin · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 13:04 Post subject:

If its a leak on the core then it is repairable, and this is all they do with a reconditioned radiator, so yes reconditioning or repair means a new core and stick with places such as Serck Marston as they will have the correct core, and will ensure they fit the correct core if more than one type us available.

Your housing which is your plastic end caps will be correctly cleaned, sealed, and clamped into the new core, and with a full warranty as long as a new part why bother with the expense of a new part.

James 55 · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 19:01 Post subject:

Hi all,

Didn't get rad back yet so Pajero still sitting outside with front removed.. I hope to have it back tomorrow evening. Question: With a Pajero Should the Transmission oil be checked idling in Park or Drive, I know some Manufacturers differ on this. Also some Mechanics are against flushing the transmission system even though it is a more thorough job. Also will I have any problem bleeding the cooling system when refilling with coolant. Any other tips will be appreciated Thanks again

assassin · Posted: Wed May 14, 2014 13:01 Post subject:

Assuming its a 3.2 then no, just ensure all your heaters are set to the hot setting and turn the ignition on when filling so all the valves are open, and flush and drain the system prior to refilling.

Get 5 litres of long life anti-freeze concentrate (not the ready mixed coolant) and put about half in, give it a few seconds to find its level, massage the bottom hose to help circulate it, put the remaining anti freeze in and massage the hose again.

If you use ordinary tap water then just add it slowly and a little at a time and massage the radiator bottom hose and air will now be expelled and the rear heater will be primed.

For a better quality water you put it through a filter jug as this removes most of the nasties, boil the filtered water and this removes more, cool and store in a sealed bottle in the fridge until needed.

System is about 10 litres with LWB and rear heater, but remember you never drain all the water out as it is full of traps, so when flushing remove one of the rear heater pipes to fully drain.