The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

beyondhelp00 · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:49 Post subject: Expected turbo life?

Just got a 3.2 DID 2002 Animal Spec shogun. The turbo thust bearings have failed at 98,000 miles. This seems a bit premature to me. How long do they usually last? My last 3.2 DID had 160,000 miles, but I dont know if that was stock turbo or not.

Before I order another however, will the later more powerful turbos bolt on? Does anyone have a good used turbo with no play in it for sale? Or failing that know where I can get one from at a sensible price? (willing to pay a fair price for an equally fair condition)

Thanks Smile

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tom fenton · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:55 Post subject:

It depends how it has been treated. If the engine has been serviced regularly with good quality oil that will help.
if the engine has been thrashed from cold, or turned off directly after a high speed run, that will not help the turbo.
Personally I would not bother with an unknown second hand turbo. There are many companies that can rebuild your unit for around £300-400.

geodrome · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:03 Post subject:

I used these chaps for a turbo on the 2.8, when I had a problem with it they replaced it without question.
http://www.crturbos.co.uk
Cousin bought from them as well no issues either.
Disclaimer: was a good few years ago though.

VIKI · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:13 Post subject:

Does anyone knows how common it is so turbo fail in early 3,2 did td models? I am asking as I have spare 1 in good condition from my previous shogun and now I have a dilemma put in for sale or keep it?

geodrome · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:08 Post subject:

Hi VIKI
I would check the numbers and if they are the same then keep, cause you never know!
As long as the oil is changed and the car driven with care it could last till you sell it.

VIKI · Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:30 Post subject:

I know it may be a 'silly' question but what numbers? where I should start looking for that numbers?

assassin · Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 1:26 Post subject:

Agree with Tom as he is spot on, turbo's should last the life of the engine, but need treating properly.

Always start the engine and allow to idle for about 30-60 seconds before driving, this allows oil pressure to build and lubricate the turbo.

When stopping approach destination slowly and stop, wait for at least 30 seconds before switching off the engine to allow the turbo to stop spinning as they run in excess of 100,000 RPM, if you stop the engine you will have a spinning turbo with no lubrication and this generates heat which overheats the oil and forms gum on the turbo bearings and this builds up to the point where it actually prevents the turbo from spinning.

Change the oil regularly.

trekker · Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 7:09 Post subject:

With Tom on this one.

dave

geodrome · Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 7:28 Post subject:

VIKI · Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:57 Post subject:

THX and what I should do if this spare 1 have different part no then this which is on my shogun put it on sale?? Should I expect any interest in that?

beyondhelp00 · Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 15:43 Post subject:

Got a used turbo with no shaft play and fitted it the other day. Problems now all gone and no noise. Gave it an oil change and filter at the same time.

Only other thing is I seem to have found a very slow fuel leak from the main tank. Going to have to look into that now, but not when its full of fuel...

peteinchad · Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 16:50 Post subject:

Glad you got the turbo sorted.

I can't help on the fuel leak because I am not familiar with the 3.2.

On the MkII it is often the stack pipes that come out of the tank to the fuel pipes.

VIKI · Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 17:15 Post subject:

on 3.2 usually its rust around screw on bottom of tank

assassin · Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 18:42 Post subject:

The bottom and side of the tanks rust, as do the filler pipes.

Normally it is abrasion where dirt builds up between the tank guard and bottom of the tank and natural movement causes the abrasive material to abrade the tank, this then rusts and a concoction of both wet dirt, road salt, and other contaminants sit in contact with the bottom of the tank and it rusts.

Prevention is easy, periodically wash the top of the tank guard with a hose to flush out any debris build up and prevent abrasion. Remove the tank guard and paint the bottom of the tank with a good rust treatment and overcoat with a good steel/metal paint and allow to dry then overcoat with a good underseal to protect the paint.

For a leaking tank, remove the plastic tank guard when the fuel is run low, get a tub and not a tube of Plastic Padding Chemical Metal; not many of the modern epoxies as they aren't fuel resistant. Remove the tank drain plug and drain out into a container, refit the plug. If you have an angle grinder get a rotary wire brush and clean it thoroughly, if you have a drill then use a rotary wire brush in the drill, when it is clean to bare metal you abrade it with some coarse abrasive paper, the coarser the better, mix a small amount of chemical metal quickly and apply like filler and ensure you cover the hole and surrounding area but work quickly as this stuff goes off in a couple of minutes, less in very hot weather, allow to harden. Sand smooth with your abrasive paper and remove as little as possible, mix a larger batch and go over the already covered area and extend well beyond it, allow to harden.

Smooth out to remove any ridges and feather the edges back into the tank metal, paint the tank as above.

VIKI · Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 19:08 Post subject:

"assassin " great advice as usual! Many thanks!