The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[peteinchad]

Good luck

[Google]

[hutchy]

if your really stuck give this guy a shout he,s a member on our delica site....
rads

i,m going to get him to do one for my gdi next year....

[vijay]

Thanks Hutchy. Looks like he does nice work and seems fairly priced

[hutchy]

i have a v6 and they dont do the right size for mine the core height is always 425 in the after market world where mine is 475 so instead of spending £120 on a recore i,m going to get an alloy one done.....i just do not think the after market rad world is good on the right bits

[vijay]

Finally an update. I was too heavy handed getting the tanks back on the rad, I used a hammer and a scredriver to knock the tabs back into place. I ended up cracking the plastic top rad

I thought about it and I should have used pliers to persuade the tabs back into place.

Plan B - I found someone who said they could supply a 2.8 Challenger auto rad from stock at £225 but I had my doubts - I was right! A 26mm 2.5 rad arrived.

So onto plan C. There's a seller who could supply a manual rad for a 2.8 Challenger for £100. So I drove their warehouse to compare my old rad and tanks to see if I could put my bottom tank onto the new manual rad - it was a match Managed to get my bottom tank on it using pliers and all went well. It's back on the car and thankfully after a couple of hours on the motorway today, no more overheating

So using pliers on the tabs is definitely the way to do it. I honestly believe if I used pliers on my old rad, I could have rodded it and got it back together easily. So for anyone who needs to do this in the future, it's a fairly easy job, just time consuming. I was kind of forced down this road as I couldn't get the right rad but it's all worked out well and cost me about £125 all in.

[jimmybond]

Your braver than me.
I would of sent them to a raditor place so theres less chance off it leaking.

[vijay]

I just thought I have nothing to lose and it really was a pretty simply job. The only tools needed were a screwdriver to bend the tabs out, an old hacksaw blade to rod it (if using your original core) pliers to bend the tabs back and time. I would do it again if need be and to top it off, the rad looked factory finish

[jimmybond]

Your only downside is that your still on a old plastic top or bottom.
When ever I took plastic top and bottom rads to express radiators they've always been like ewww not a good move, plastic is weak and often leaks after time as 1 it goes brittle and 2 it warps with age.
it does not like to be disturbed.
but if it lasts then great.
youve done well.

[vijay]

yeah the bottom is still the old one but it's made from a different plastic than the top. Hopefully it'll be ok as the bottom of the rad should have stayed cooler

[jimmybond]

To be honest I never noticed about the plastics being different.
I just assumed both the same.
I know with my luck if I did that it would of been guaranteed leak.

[vijay]

I assumed the same too but they were definitely different on mine

[davembp]

Well done!!

[Simon_W]

[emax]

vijay

My rad has started weeping round the top tank. After looking at it yesterday I was thinking along the same lines as you, then I found your write up which gave me added enthusiasm to attempt the repair . I am wondering if you used a sealant when replacing the tank? and if so what did you use?

emax

[vijay]

On the first attempt I used Wynns Gasket maker, the black stuff. Onthe second attempt, I had a new gasket from a manual rad I used so didn't bother with extra sealant.

Don't forget - the tabs don't need much to get them back into place, so don't use a hammer like I did the first time. Gentle persuation with pliers worked really well and once you've gone round them all, you can give them an extra push again