The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

magn1t · *** Joined: 07 May 2006 Posts: 153 Location: NZ

You get "no fault codes" when the computer is faulty.

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Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 0:08 Post subject: Thought so.

I did wonder that magn1t!

Well there's one on the way too.

Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 21:43 Post subject: Hmm?

Hi again,

Have done the plugs, leads and coils, still not firing, it's trying to but missing like I've got the sequence wrong, it went back the way it was but can someone just confirm the firing order on the coils, I know they are 123456 but left to right 521436?

Does the ecu control the ignition by any chance?

It back firing like a *beep* at the moment, my pal squirted easy start as I tried to start and lost his eyebrows, as much as this was hilarious I'm miffed at my big beastie still refusing to fire, what's next?

Cheers again.

Scott
GTR

magn1t · *** Joined: 07 May 2006 Posts: 153 Location: NZ

The old saying.......what's not broken doesn't need fixing.
If you try to fix what's not broken , it ends up broken.

Yes, the computer controls the ignition.
No 1 is at the front, no 6 is at the back, the odd ones are drivers side (rhs), even ones, passenger side (lhs).

jimmybond · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:51 Post subject:

Ive just noticed.
you replaced meter with a different part no.
thats not good.
you need to test meter with a multimeter.
1 might have a air temp built in other not.
resistance might be wrong aswell.
are you not getting any codes out of this?

jimmybond · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:55 Post subject:

You do realise you need to run or crank engine for ages to get codes.
when you turn key off there gone.

Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 17:07 Post subject: Okay!

Hi,

I changed plugs and leads because truck has only done 120000 miles and I've have it for 30000 of those, I do not know if it's ever had it's plugs changed, it was a job on the list anyway, as a mechanic I don't see how I would break anything further by doing that, the plugs were old and very worn at the electrode, possibly 19 years old!

I cleaned all contacts when I put back together also.

The airflow meter is off a 3000GT/GTO n/a I read on this forum that the are interchangeable but I've tried both and without again, she still won't run!

The question asked was not how cylinders are numbered but how they fire from left to right on the coil packs, reading online I have 3 different orders? Although I have not changed this order (I hope) can anyone clarify please?

I have another ecu (with the same numbers as mine) coming out as I am getting no blink codes (short pin 1 to earth and count flashes) all I get is a constant flash every second, nothing else?

This I have tried with both flow meters???

Is there another way of reading codes, I will buy another tool if needed?

To me ignition timing is shot but was intermittant so I don't think the belt has jumped but I've not ruled that out yet?

The fact it wouldn't run with the air flow meter, then unplugged it would, then the other meter it ran sweet for 2 days then the original symptoms came back, suggests electrical, I assumed the basics and thought either plugs, leads and coils had maybe broke down with heat?

I'm getting spark, I'm getting fuel but I'm not going anywhere!

If there is any tests you could recommend I have pretty much most tools at my disposal?

Thank you again.

Scott
Grantouringracing

Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 19:39 Post subject: Finally!

I left the diagnostic earth connected and all of a sudden it flashed 14, which according to my autodata is throttle position sensor or ECM! Look like I'm off to source a TPS!!!

jimmybond · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:07 Post subject:

The airflow meter wont stop it from starting.
tps yes.
have you checked the plug.
also the screws.
are they loose.

Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:16 Post subject: Finally!

So after everything plugged in replacement ecu and turned key, burst into life straight away, started to play silly *beep* again and threw out tons of codes, left it and it fixed itself, I'm assuming the new ecu had to learn all the sensors??

I have a slightly high idle that I can't seem to drop below 1500 rpm in neutral/park but sits at 1000 stopped in gear?

How is idle controlled on these?

Cheers guys.

Scott.

jimmybond · Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:36 Post subject:

Idle air control valve but yours is working.
Is the aircon button on as that raises it to a 1000rpm

magn1t · *** Joined: 07 May 2006 Posts: 153 Location: NZ

It's because you've changed the computer.
If you'd just given it a reset with a good computer you'd get the same.

There's a screw on the throttle body to set the idle speed.

A faulty TPS doesn't prevent them from starting either. It detects "on " throttle and "off" throttle (IPS switch), the TPS part is only used when the AFM is unplugged, that's due to failsafe mode where it reverts to alpha N.

Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 21:17 Post subject: Still scratching my flipping head!

Hi truck is a nightmare, new ecu, new leads, plugs, airflow meter, coils, throttle body and both switches on it!

Starts, runs, revs, will do all day long, can start and stop as many times as possible, but drive it round the block and it'll start fine, then pops bangs and cuts out, sometimes I can drive it with the starter driving it (it's auto) then pop it in gear and manoeuvre it but it then need to cool right down to cold (next day) before it'll start again!

Has anyone got any kind of idea because I'm fed up of it now!

Gran Touring Racing · Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2015 21:18 Post subject: Oh and...

It's not throwing any codes at all!

magn1t · *** Joined: 07 May 2006 Posts: 153 Location: NZ

Low fuel pressure due to blockage/faulty pump?