The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

NikkiNoo · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 19:33 Post subject: front brake calipers swb 2.5 seized

Yellow peeps, just changed my rear brake pads not a problem but on moving to the front I can undo the bottom slider bolt but can't see how I get to the top one as there is a sleeve stopping me getting a socket in there and the caliper will not budge and the pads are shot. Any advice would be great fully appreciated as can't drive my new toy Sad

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BIGWOOD · Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 22:20 Post subject:

You don't need to remove the top slider pin. You can try 2 ways. Start with #1 as easiest.

1 - Undo the bottom slide pin marked "L" for lock pin. Use f-clamp and squeeze the caliper body to push back the piston if possible. This will help you get over the rusty ridge line on the rotor. Some gentle persuasion, love taps with a hammer can help release it from the corrosion. Use flat head screw driver or similar tool to wedge the bottom of the caliper body open. You may need to work it a few times, back and forth before you're able to slide it off the top guide pin. Some penetrating oil and more gentle persuasion with the hammer can help.

2 - If all else fails, just take the entire caliper assembly off from the housing by removing the 2 bolts holding the caliper support. Some hammering and wedging may be required if it is seriously corroded. If you are replacing the caliper install it straight away to avoid running the reservoir dry. If you're doing a re & re on the caliper you may want to clamp the brake hose. Some people will have a problem with clamping brake lines. I don't. A needle nose vice grip with brake line wrapped around the tip will reduce damage to the hose. If the hose looks shotty then it's time to replace it anyways.

Good luck.

NikkiNoo · Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 18:15 Post subject:

[quote="BIGWOOD"]You don't need to remove the top slider pin. You can try 2 ways. Start with #1 as easiest.

1 - Undo the bottom slide pin marked "L" for lock pin. Use f-clamp and squeeze the caliper body to push back the piston if possible. This will help you get over the rusty ridge line on the rotor. Some gentle persuasion, love taps with a hammer can help release it from the corrosion. Use flat head screw driver or similar tool to wedge the bottom of the caliper body open. You may need to work it a few times, back and forth before you're able to slide it off the top guide pin. Some penetrating oil and more gentle persuasion with the hammer can help.

2 - If all else fails, just take the entire caliper assembly off from the housing by removing the 2 bolts holding the caliper support. Some hammering and wedging may be required if it is seriously corroded. If you are replacing the caliper install it straight away to avoid running the reservoir dry. If you're doing a re & re on the caliper you may want to clamp the brake hose. Some people will have a problem with clamping brake lines. I don't. A needle nose vice grip with brake line wrapped around the tip will reduce damage to the hose. If the hose looks shotty then it's time to replace it anyways.

Good luck.[/quote]

Top Man will try this and see how I get on Laughing

NikkiNoo · Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 23:27 Post subject:

Just an update , good. Got the bottom slider bolt out and the caliper up so I could get the piston to retract but can't get the caliper to slide on the top pins that I can get the new pads in , soaked it with penetrating fluid and will give it a mother go on the weekend. Fingers crossed now .......

NikkiNoo · Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 23:29 Post subject:

give it a mother go

Another go lol ,

NikkiNoo · Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 0:08 Post subject: UPDATE!

Just an update , new calipers and sliders going on in the morning as tried everything to get mine working , the 2.8 swb ones don't fit ( I found out the hard way by buying them only to find out the carriers are bigger lol , had a refund ba a tenner and found a few trick bits i can put on mine he got Wink

RESULT ..........
Obviously I shall have to bleed the brakes and was just wondering if it's just a case of bleeding the front brakes or should I do the whole system ? And if so is there a certain sequence?
Thanks NN......

BIGWOOD · Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 2:07 Post subject:

As your going to replaced the calipers, it's always good idea to bleed the brakes unless you clamped off the lines. It's a good time to replace the brake fluid since it should be replaced every 2 years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and after absorbs moisture in the air can start to eat away at your brake lines.

How's the brake pedal feeling after the service? It should feel firm.

The sequence for RHD vehicle is...rear left; rear right; LSPV (if you have one); front left; front right.

NikkiNoo · Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 14:10 Post subject: All Done

[quote="BIGWOOD"]As your going to replaced the calipers, it's always good idea to bleed the brakes unless you clamped off the lines. It's a good time to replace the brake fluid since it should be replaced every 2 years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and after absorbs moisture in the air can start to eat away at your brake lines.

How's the brake pedal feeling after the service? It should feel firm.

The sequence for RHD vehicle is...rear left; rear right; LSPV (if you have one); front left; front right.[/quote]

Yea I changed the calipers and clamped off the pipes and just bled the front as didn't see any need to do the rear just yet but I will when I get some more fluid , pedal is nice and firm and brakes working well so I'm a happy camper now as I can stop lol.

Pretty easy job for anyone who knows a bit about cars in general but I would advise to wear steel toe cap as one of the calipers dropped on my toe and by god it ffffffffffflipping hurt ( didn't say flipping at the time I can tell you but thought I'd be a bit conservative on here)

So here we go on the road again and on to my next project top n/s ball joint which has a slight bit of wear in the bushes ....

Thanks for everyone's help on this matter... NN