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The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®
The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
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tricky m72
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Age: 51
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Joined: 30 Dec 2010
Posts: 69
Location: shropshire
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 Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 15:14 Post subject: |
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| claying the car/truck makes a big difference.i used to do valeting for a living and was told to mix a bit of t-cut into your polish to give it a bit extra bite when polishing.not alot just a little. |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 15:14 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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flaredarch
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Age: 36
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Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Posts: 59
Location: LEEDS
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| Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 15:22 Post subject: |
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Cant beat hand carwash for £6  |
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GARETH B
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Joined: 10 Jul 2012
Posts: 321
Location: United Kingdom
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| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 13:54 Post subject: |
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Sod all that on a mud beast!! Good right up dude but I can't help think its on the wrong vehicle forum! 
1. Mud bath (good for your skin my wife tells me. Must be good for paint then!)
2. Drive home to let it harden and exfoliate.
3. Blast with pressure washer on 'MAX MAN POWER' setting, paying special attention to get next door neighbors cat.
4. Throw some demon shine on or whatever was on offer in the supermarket at the time and spend the rest of the day looking at the engine wondering what to tinker with next!# |
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REVOGEL
LifeTime Member
Age: 84
Zodiac: 
Joined: 23 Dec 2006
Posts: 4276
Location: Cent. Amelias. Reg 10. Guyana South America
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| Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:57 Post subject: |
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| Where in Guyana can I get this stuff |
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Simon_W
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Joined: 21 May 2013
Posts: 4881
Location: Watford
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| Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:11 Post subject: |
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| REVOGEL wrote: |
| Where in Guyana can I get this stuff |
Assuming you're not referring to Gareth B's mud, you're in just the right location to grow your own Carnauba palm.  |
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Johnny Alpha
LifeTime Member
Age: 54
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Joined: 15 Mar 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Wales, The Hills
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| Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:21 Post subject: |
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| GARETH B wrote: |
3. Blast with pressure washer on 'MAX MAN POWER' setting, paying special attention to get next door neighbors cat.
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I'm still on step one... need a shovel and a wheelbarrow now to cart all the mud away. Back to step one after lunch... step one might take a while... |
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TomRollo
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Age: 37
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Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 14
Location: Whitby north yorks
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 20:59 Post subject: |
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| Hey great instructions appreciate the time you put in to educate others ! Top man |
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BIGWOOD
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Age: 47
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Joined: 01 Feb 2013
Posts: 108
Location: vancouver bc
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 23:17 Post subject: I agree |
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I agree. Great instructions.
I'm lazy. Though I only apply a coat of wax on the headlights and windows more than the paint itself. Probably once a month. It rains a lot where I live. Visibility is really important for me. The truck only gets clayed and a protective coating (Chemical Guy's Jet Seal 109) put on once in the Fall and once in Spring. After Winter the undercarriage gets a good cleaning to wash off all the liquid salt they put on the roads. Other than that it only gets blasted with the garden hose when it gets too dirty.
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mixa
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Age: 67
Zodiac: 
Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 46
Location: SWADLINCOTE
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| Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 23:14 Post subject: Re: The 5 steps for detailing your car |
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| kfieldin wrote: |
| weedomjolly wrote: |
Hi all, by the looks of some of the photos on hear, I think most of you’s like to spend the day getting your cars covered in dirt! Me however, I like to spend my day getting the stuff off!!! One of my many pastimes is modding BMW’s and getting them featured in the Total BMW Magazine. So if, and that’s a BIG if, you want to do the opposite one week end and get the dirt off then try the following. Trust me on this, it will be worth it 
1 Wash.
The first hint or tip about washing is to get rid of the sponge! Use a Microfiber handmit, the sponge only traps dirt under it and grinds it into your paintwork, it’s also the main cause of the swirl marks you see on your paintwork, before you start working on your car, it must be clean. If it’s not, you’re only going to create more work for yourself later on. Use a bucket of water and avoid using the power wash.
2 Clay.
After you have washed your car, just run your fingertips lightly over the paintwork, especially over the horizontal surfaces. If you detail your car regularly, odds-on that it will feel smooth like glass. More likely though, is that it will feel gritty and course. That’s caused by airborne contaminants such as tree sap etc that has landed on your car, and bonded to the paint. If you park your car outside, it’s inevitable that dirt and dust will bond to your paint over time. Luckily, removing them is pretty easy and painless. You just need a clay bar, and some clay lube (usually just a quick detailer). If you don’t have these things, just drop by your local auto store and pick up a Meguiars or Mothers clay kit, or something similar.(my preference is Meguiars)
Break up the clay bar into 3 pieces, wrap two pieces up and put them away for next time, and use one piece. Now, all you need to do is spray a little clay lube onto a small section (say 50cm x 50cm) and lightly rub the clay back and forth over the surface. You’ll feel it if you don’t have enough lube, the clay bar will stick. You’ll also be able to feel when you have rubbed enough, because the clay bar will begin to just glide over the surface with no resistance at all. You don’t need to use any weight or pressure, just let the clay bar do the work. After you have finished each section, wipe off the residue with a microfiber cloth. Depending on the clay that you used, you may have left behind light marks on the paint, don’t worry about them, they’ll come off when you polish. You would typically clay your car every 6 to 12 months, but you’ll be able to feel when it needs it. Important!: If you drop the clay bar on the ground, through it out! Don't reuse it because it will have picked up dirt and this will damage your paintwork. After you have finished your car, save that piece of clay, it can be used in future for trim, wheels, glass etc. Once you have finished run the back of your hand over the paintwork, if done right it should feel like a sheet of glass!
3 Polish.
OK, let’s get one thing straight: Polishing is not waxing, and waxing is not polishing. They are 2 very different, separate and distinct processes, with different purposes. Polishing your paintwork is what gives you the shine, the reflections, the lustre. It is without doubt the most complex part of the process, because there are so many variables, different products, and different techniques. Because of this, I’m just going to talk about the basics to get you started. Basically the main thing hear is to take your time and stick to one panel at a time,(I know it’s hard)but do try and avoid doing a whole side, then falling back to take the polish off, if you take your time believe me the end result will be well worth it!
4 Wax.
The purpose of waxing is to lock in the shine that you got from polishing, and to protect the paint from UV damage, from bird poo, from airborne contaminants, from water etching, and from other nasties. Waxing will add depth and wetness to the shine, but if you didn’t do a good job polishing, then waxing isn’t going to magically give you a show car finish.
There are essentially 2 types of wax, natural wax based primarily on Carnauba wax, and Synthetic waxes, more correctly called sealants. However the purpose, and in most cases the method of application, is the same.(my choice is the Carnauba wax)
The normal method for applying wax is to apply a fine layer with a hand held foam applicator, let it dry to a fine haze (anywhere from 5 mins to an hour), and yes you can do a whole side if you want! Then buff off the residue with a microfiber towel. What you are doing is leaving behind a very very thin layer that will harden like concrete and protect your paint, and keep it looking good. Most waxes can be layered, i.e. you apply a new layer every week for several weeks, to give extra depth and protection. Be mindful though, that a coat of wax will take 24 hours to harden, and 72 hours to fully cure, you can’t put anything else on the paint until the wax is fully cured, including another coat of wax.
Most waxes will last around 6-8 weeks per coat, with some synthetic sealants claiming 6 months protection or more. You’ll be able to tell though, when you have enough wax on the car, water will form in tight, tall, perfectly round beads. As the wax wears off though, the beads will become less round, and they won’t sit as tall. Natural waxes are a little more work, and need to be applied more often, but will give you a warmer, wetter look. Synthetic sealants tend to be easier to work with, and last longer, but tend to look a little more clinical and plasticky, but these are general observations only.
5 Maintain.
After you’ve done all of that work, you need to maintain it to keep it looking good. The most basic step is regular washing; it’s the best and easiest thing you can do. Only use microfibre on your paint work, don’t use terry towelling, old rags, lamb’s wool, chenille, chamois etc, just microfibre, it’s the best material we have available for the purpose, so use it. It’s cheap and effective. Carry some quick detailer and a microfibre towel in the car, so if you get bird poo on the paint, you can remove it safely soon as possible before the acids in it start eating into your paintwork. The one overall rule here is to avoid touching your paintwork as much as is possible. Any contact with the paint will simply grind the dust and dirt on the surface, no matter how fine it is, into the paint and cause micro scratches.
This usually takes me the best part of a morning to do!
Any questions on this subject then I’ll be glad to help. |
1: Wash - Snowfoam via a pressure washer is good. Not too high on the pressure though. Use a two bucket method - One to wash and one to rinse the mitt. In the rinse bucket ensure you have a grit gurad so you don't pickup stuff you have already wiped off.
After Claying use a DA (MOP) to restore the paint, then a swirl remover and a final finish polish. Wax, sealant and you should be good to go.
Don't expect to do this in a day!
Just bought this and it was stood for two years. 8 months under trees. Was a mess - 3 days and :-
Needs wheel sorted and the roof sorted yet but not bad - shame I didn't get the before pics. |
Just a couple of bits to add before using Snowfoam the vehicle should be sprayed with water normal garden hose or power wash with lance off , though not many will want to spend 40 quid on a good spray gun applicator to use this stuff or 15 notes on 5 lts of good quality foam and need a good power washer ,i use the power washer under the aches ect then take the lance off which drops the presure to wash off I do the foam twice , then the 2 bucket job both with strainers in the bottom ( never use washing up liquid it is not good for paint work )
Clay bar it does a great job but takes time and if dropped on the floor is scrap never reuse if dropped
DA or Orbital polisher not realy a DA as the DA is commonly used for sanding as its a random orbital this will leave swirls , a polisher is straight spin ,. Polishers come in many styles and powers the best being 1100 or lower start up to what ever the top speed is usually from 2700-3500 usually 6 settings they are heavy and this will be very noticable after an hour or so ,and to do a full mop properly you are talking at least 4 hrs
PLUS there is a down side if you dont know how to use one a paint job can be totalled in minutes by either burnishing the paint or totaly removing it from angles not a job for amitures really . you need to know what grade abrasive to use plus a good mop will be around 200 notes cheap imports from china dont last
when i trained as a refinisher with a very expensive car maker , you started training as a flatter for weeks then damaged panels ,though these cars dont have panels repaired just replaced thats 3 mths even if perfect after a week , then primming onto paint and clear coating , then before getting near a polisher the whole prosses had to be learnt by hand ,probably 2 years in,., if mopped correctly there should not be any swirls
Ho and Brasso is far better than T-cut and dont bother with the 20/25 quid 2 handed polisher from ALDI/LIDEL/ARGOS THE WONT DO THE JOB and with the micro fiber cloths if using cheap ones though some not so cheap also have tags stiched to them remove them as they will undo the work you have done might only be a small tag but the scratches they can inflict is amazing |
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Davelincs
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Age: 67
Zodiac: 
Joined: 23 Jan 2015
Posts: 109
Location: Lincoln
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 6:00 Post subject: |
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| Instead of using clay bar, the new clay mitt is a lot easier and quicker, and can be use more than once |
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mixa
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Age: 67
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Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 46
Location: SWADLINCOTE
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 10:29 Post subject: |
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| Davelincs wrote: |
| Instead of using clay bar, the new clay mitt is a lot easier and quicker, and can be use more than once |
Not had chance to use one yet , infact only seen them for sale on Ebay but do look to be a better item than the bar ,a lot less chance of dropping it so less waste |
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Davelincs
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Age: 67
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Joined: 23 Jan 2015
Posts: 109
Location: Lincoln
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:09 Post subject: |
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| Halfords sell them, look out for the 3 for the price of 2 offers |
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mixa
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Age: 67
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Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 46
Location: SWADLINCOTE
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 22:40 Post subject: |
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| Will have to pop down already used there 3 for 2 twice a couple of weeks back replenishing my Maguiars stock |
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