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2003 Shogun Sport starting problems.

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Tim.S
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 16:34    Post subject: 2003 Shogun Sport starting problems. Reply with quote

Hi everyone, can somebody shed some light on a problem that's driving me to breaking point, I have owned a 2.5td Sport since March and to start with it was fine then it began to get hard to start when it was up to temperature also it started to pump water out of the header bottle so I fitted a new head, this fixed the water problems but not the starting issue, since then it has become increasingly difficult to start from cold (30 to 40 seconds cranking)and I need to spray WD40 into the intake to get it to start from hot at all but when it's running it's fine it also bump starts with no problem at all but if you turn it off even for a second it won't restart. I have tested the compression and it's fine at just below 400PSI on all cylinders. In an attempt to sort the problem I have replaced the crank angle sensor and fitted a set of injectors but it's still no better, as I use the car for work doing a lot of stop/starting it's annoying to open the bonnet and take off the intake pipe every time I need to start it. I'm begining to think that it might be the diesel pump as the starter motor seems to turn the engine over fine but I was looking for a bit of advise before wasting any more money on the problem. Thanks in advance Tim.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 19:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Tim
Welcome to the forum, but sorry to hear of your problems.

There was what sounds like a similar situation discussed here a while ago which turned out to be a cylinder head issue, diagnosed via low compression. http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=155041 . Even though you've checked the compression on yours and it's OK, the thread might be worth reading for the other advice that's there.

My own thoughts on your problem lean towards a problem with the stop solenoid, which may not be properly energising when hot. So with the engine hot and the ignition on, remove/replace the connector and listen for the clicking.

I hope that others will be along soon on this.
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Tim.S
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 21:34    Post subject: Poor starting Reply with quote

Thanks Simon, I did read  it already and that's why I bought a compression tester but the idea about the shut off solenoid is a good one and I'll test it as soon as possible, the only question is it the one with two wires in the side of the pump? Cheers Tim.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 22:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a 2.8, so don't know the pump on the 2.5. If it's the same, it's the soleniod with the black cover that's mounted vertically at the rear of the pump. I've not had to touch mine, but I think it's a bit fiddly if you need to remove it.
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jimmybond
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shogun sport is on a bosch vp37 type pump.
no stop solenoid.
needs expensive daignostic equioment on this to see what the pump is actually doing.

these do suffer crankshaft problems and a bad crank sensor would cause this.
loose crank bolt usually gives up codes.

Weak speed sensor in pump fit the bill to.
try bump start it so it spins faster.
that will tell you if a speed sensor is weak
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Tim.S
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 16:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would the speed sensor effect it starting with a squirt of WD 40, because it starts up every time like that, it also starts easily with a bump start. Is it possible to replace the speed sensor without replacing the whole pump. Any advise desperately received with thanks. Tim.
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jimmybond
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 7:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you add wd40 it helps the engine fire and increase crank speed.
you need to know is it a weak crank sensor or speed sensor on pump shaft.
needs expensive diagnostic equipment to get your answer.
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jimmybond
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 8:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im just trying to think about the speed sensor replacement in the pump.
I just cant think yet I pulled many vw and audi pumps apart in the past.

if it was a vp44 then yes.
I often change the brain and have to change speed sensor with it.
I not had any vp37 pumps apart for a couple of years.
im always dealing with vp44 or vp30.
most of the stuff I do is common rail.
I dont ever open up a mitsubishi edc pump as ive never had a spare or duffer on shelf to rob parts off.
I send them to diesco in ipswich as them pumps not as common as other types.
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Tim.S
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 20:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

News update, I bought a second hand diesel pump yesterday and had a couple of hours spare today so I fitted it, now it starts first time hot or cold so I think that's cured it but it will get a full test tomorrow, thanks for everyones help,Tim.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 21:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim.S wrote:
News update, I bought a second hand diesel pump yesterday and had a couple of hours spare today so I fitted it, now it starts first time hot or cold so I think that's cured it but it will get a full test tomorrow, thanks for everyones help,Tim.


Well done!  Smile
That sounds promising. Let us know tomorrow after your full test.
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jimmybond
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 7:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ment test it with diagnostic equipment 1st on truck.
sometimes its just a loose bit on back of pump.
I only send off for a bench test if I cant get no sense from it but glad you sorted it.
well done.
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Tim.S
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 18:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news, it's been starting and stopping all day with no problems(I use it as a works van) so that's that problem solved, now I've just got to stop the turbo waste gate from  whistling from under the operating lever, any one know if it's possible to remove the lever and re-bush the waste gate shaft ?. I have a lathe and milling machine so making the parts should be possible but the operating lever appears to be brazed on.Thanks Tim.
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jimmybond
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 10:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim I always find whistling is a result of a stuck flap in turbo.
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jimmybond
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 10:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

See the hooks, flap other side but connectected to them.
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Tim.S
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2015 21:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

I disconnected the actuator about 3 weeks ago and moved the lever and it seems free and it stopped whistling for about 20 miles afterwards but then it started whistling again. I'm clocking up about 500 miles a week and the radio can only drown out a bit of the noise. Any idea how tricky it is to change the flaps?, I've seen them for sale on Ebay but I only have the weekends to work on the motor. Thanks Tim.
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