The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[IXI]

Hi folks

Mine can almost overheat in some hard work situations and I wonde if anyone in the UK knows if there are any high flow radiator or similar cooling modification/improvement kits available.

Plus does anyone know if waterless coolant might help?

Thanks.

[Google]

[Rob546454]

I am having a custom full alloy radiator made. Its high flow and had a 50mm thick core. Not ordered it yet but I gave them measurments and I was quoted £190. Might be able to knock the price down a bit if I can order a couple...

[assassin]

I would look to clean out your cooling system first, and do it properly.

Drain down through a stocking or similar by removing the bottom hose as this will filter out any crud and you can ascertain the state of your system.

Fill with water and run the vehicle with the heaters in the hot position, stop, drain down; repeat until you have clean water coming out.

Fill with clean water and an industrial strength cooling system cleaner the trade uses which you will have to get from a cooling system specialist as it cannot be sold to the public and FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO THE LETTER as this will eat through metal if left.

Drain and clean by flushing through with clean water at least 3 times to remove any trace of the cleaner; this will remove everything from your cooling system including the limescale which builds up on the surfaces of the cooling system.

Fill with anti freeze and water and bleed.

[trekker]

Q;  Mine can almost overheat in some hard work situations and I wonde if anyone in the......

What temperature are you reaching to have this concern of almost overheating ?

[peteinchad]

I bought a 42mm thick all aluminium radiator similar to THIS but from a different seller.

The seller I got mine from seems to be out of stock lately and I have no idea how good the seller in the link is.

It has dropped my running temperature by about 5^oC.

I also changed the water pump and flushed the system thoroughly - I now flush my cooling system every summer.

[Rob546454]

Forget harsh coolant flushers. You need a clever little detailing product called. iron-X. Its designed to remove iron particles trapped inside car paint. Those into detailing rave about it. Its PH neutral and doesn't etch or corrode metals at all, but it dissolves rust like salt in water.

I tested it on a rust chunk on metal and it brought the surface back like new in half an hour. soaked a spare water pump seal in it and it didn't swell up. A bottle of that would do wonders even after you have flushed with water. It smells rancid mind but I can't fault it any other way.

[The procrastinator]

[Roadrunner2110]

This might give you some insight and clues ..........

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html

Bearing in mind the rad caps are either 0.9 or 1.3 bar it's easy to see the from these tables the temperatures achieved and bearing in mind these are for water and not antifreeze mixes.

If the temp registered on a Pajero is 100C and still climbing you usually have a problem or heat sink from fast driving. IMO if it reaches 110C usually you're in the brown & smelly already any higher and defo in the *beep* big time. So an aftermarket temp gauge is essential on most 4M40's and others and not a 'nice to have' accessory.

[IXI]

Some interesting Posts for me to ponder; thanks folks.

As for the temps I am seeing on my after-market digital water temp gauge - I usually see around 69 when cruising, it can rise to 78-80 after a long period of power up, say, a particularly long hill.

What sparked this thread was reaching 96 during a period of struggling to get through a quarter mile of beach-side shale. Damn near got stuck but never have before and then realised this is the first time I've done it on Goodrich AT's whereas before I was on super-knobbly Tyres that are no longer available in the UK, and with those it was easy. This time I had tyres smoking and my butt puckering and I only just made it. Phew!

[kbike]

Sounds a tad too cool to me. I would say normal running at 85 and up to 100 when really working hard.
K

[trekker]

So you don't have a high temperature problem at all. Does your engine have a thermostat fitted, 69 is low as said ?.

If you air down your tyre pressures to around 1.2 bar, the Paj will pull so much easier in deep sand/soil. I've never been close to smoking tyres, no wonder the motor was at 100, though this is not alarming it's an indication to tap off.

[Roadrunner2110]

The harder the truck and engine works the higher the temperature. 100C isn't a killer just an awareness wake up. As has been said already, lower the tyre pressure in sand or shale otherwise it'll bury itself deeper and use low range 4x4 with diff lock but don't use diff once you get back onto hard roads.

69C is low mine runs at 75C tickover, 78-85C cruising at 60mph and 95C up a long steep hill. It has only ever once gone over 100C after crusing fast, circa 80mph+ for an hour or so, on a motorway in sweltering conditions and on leaving the motorway the heat sink effect took the temps to 105C   , so a new 0.9 bar rad cap and thermostat solved the problem. I've got a new allow 42mm rad to fit when I've got time and now the temperatures here have fallen to 25C in the last 24 hours, earlier this week it was 36C most of the day.

[IXI]

Hi all
Thanks for your Posts.
On balance, I guess I don't have a cooling problem after all; seems my 96 was a one-off and all the temps I usually see below that are between low and normal.
I guess I got a little worried as I did blow the head, twice in a month, a few years ago (hence adding the loud after-market digital temp gauge/alarm).
Just as an aside; I've been looking at buying something different but I see nothing that would suit me as well as this Pajero which I think is a hell of a compliment to this 20 year old beast.
This thread can now be regarded as closed.
Thanks again.