The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

stecad

Finally sorted the fuel pump - big job but definitely worth it as fuel management is now spot on.
It's left me with the final job which is the shims. Only ever had to contend with rockers or hydraulic systems to date.

I can only find info in the Haynes manual. I never like to jump in based only on what's in Haynes.

It seems a bit of a pain to measure it all up - any easy way or tips? Can't find any useful "how to" threads on here.

thanks
steve
4M40 2.8TD SWB Pajero, 150K miles.

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Roadrunner2110 · ****** Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471

peteinchad · Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 10:16 Post subject:

Fiddly job but easy enough.

Measure the clearances you have got as shown in this diagram:

Calculate the size of shim you would need to set the correct clearance. (eg if your clearance is 0.025mm too big then you need a shim that is 0.025mm thicker than the one you have in at the moment)

Remove camshaft and change shims.

Replace camshaft and check clearances.

peteinchad · Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2015 10:22 Post subject:

Valve clearances here:

Roadrunner2110 · ****** Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471

Just to add to Pete's excellent info (he always makes me look so lazy Wink

), always ensure the camshaft bearings and end float are perfect otherwise you are wasting your time and efforts. Additionally, check the camshaft cap torque wrench setting before you undo the camshaft caps and then ENSURE you torque the bolts down exactly to the correct torque setting and in the correct order otherwise you may find the gaps are not as you have measured them afterwards. With regards to the existing shims, always run a micrometer over them as a check as they do wear from compression and movement especially as they have strong valve springs and are circa 20 years old.

If you are worried about cam clatter, don't, it's quite normal on these engines as they have very little hydraulic damping. Pajero 4M40 = old truck engine = noisy but nice Wink

stecad · Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:57 Post subject:

Many thanks for all the replies.
The Mitsi manual seems to require a standard shim be used. I'm sure measuring all the gaps then taking off the cam and measuring all the shims will give me the necessary values to calculate any adjustments (new shims).
It all just looks like a real PIA job that takes far longer than it really should as you have to do the whole thing again once you have the new shims. I hate doing a job twice.
Weather permitting i'll go for Round 1 on Sunday.

trekker · Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:39 Post subject:

It's often a once in a lifetime job.

You can save on shim costs by using shims from one valve in another position.

peteinchad · Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 9:57 Post subject:

Roadrunner2110 · ****** Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471

stecad · Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 8:00 Post subject:

Update - easy enough measuring everything up. Easy enough prising the shims out and most are marked and actually match the reading on the vernier.
Following my calculations only 1 can be re-used.
Mitsi dealer tells me they're special order and take 10-14 days delivery.
Truck's now off the road until the new shims arrive as I can't be bothered to put it all back together and then undo it all again.
You won't ever get it spot on as the shims are only available in limited sizes so be prepared to accept a compromise.
Shims cost £4.11 (inc VAT) so they're not too expensive.

trekker · Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 8:53 Post subject:

Have in the past had shims ground to thickness by a machine shop.

joe 90 · ** Joined: 11 Jul 2015 Posts: 90 Location: Under a car

What a "pro" does is cuts the seats so the shims are too tight.
Then cuts the valve tips to correct it.
With the right machine takes no time at all?

peteinchad · Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 16:37 Post subject:

Roadrunner2110 · ****** Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471

Have you considered other shims for other engines? I have boxes of differing shims for a 1600 BDA and 2.0 BDX which are kicking around the garage. What is the diameter of the 2.8TD shims? Ford BDA & BDX shims used to be as cheap as chips. Have you spoken to an engine builder as I'm sure they will have boxes of shims for OHC engines. As long as the diameter is about right at the end of the day a shim is a shim and makes are irrelevent. All you need is info on the shims, thicknesses and diameter and grab yourself some good quality shims be they Ford, Vauxhall, Peugeot or even Renault Shocked

don't use worn shims though as they are more trouble.

It is possible to grind down shims on a quality surface grinder like an ancient Jones Shipman if you have access to one or a local machinist. They clamp perfectly onto a magnetic surface chuck.

stecad · Posted: Tue Dec 01, 2015 8:15 Post subject:

Many thanks for the suggestions. Head off to access it from the other end is a bit of a nuclear option. No thanks.
As it happened the dealer managed to get them in 3 days. Seems they like to give worst case scenario.
New shims installed and everything checked out as calculated - Phew!
Cover back on with plenty of sealant.
She now fires up and runs like an absolute dream. Well worth doing as it does transform the truck. 180,000km and should now see me for another 100,000km at least.
I have a selection of the old shims if anyone wants to cover the post and a beer. I'll only trip over them in the garage in 5 years time so may as well get them gone.
Very Happy