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arcascomp **
Joined: 25 Jan 2016 Posts: 62 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:53 Post subject: Radio - Physical install question |
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Not really a mod as such, just trying to get a standard single DIN radio to fit as a replacement to the existing one. Posting here as I believe that the Challenger has a slightly different dash arrangement from the Pajero's.
The Sony CD/Radio that's there is bolted in using the usual Japanese method of securing the radio in place and whoever fitted it cut the front lower dash surround a bit so that it would fit through. My new radio has a removable front and is designed in the European style to slot into a cage from the front and therefore has a small part larger than standard single DIN that sits proud.
My problem is, if I fit the new radio bolted into the original brackets, the lower dash will not fit back on without some more butchering that I don't really want to do. Partly due to the existing cutting of the lower dash and also due to the flimsy nature of the dash plastics I don't think using the standard cage will be very secure, leaving the radio a bit loose. How has everyone else managed getting a standard 'slot in from front' radio fitted? or am I just worrying too much? |
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:53 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:54 Post subject: |
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My single DIN radio is fitted using the cage that was supplied with it. The cage is secured with tabs that are bent into place. It's perfectly secure.
A word of warning though. When I recently fitted a new aerial, I must have done something to the airbag wiring as I've now got the SRS light on. It now requires a reset, which I will have to pay for. I think if I'd isolated the batteries this could have been avoided. |
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arcascomp **
Joined: 25 Jan 2016 Posts: 62 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 12:06 Post subject: |
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Cheers for the quick answer - the guy that cut the dash on mine, also cut vertically through to the cup holder part making the whole piece a little weaker. I was wondering about sticking/bolting a standard DIN cage to the existing brackets in some manner so the back half of the stereo gets decent support. |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 15:21 Post subject: |
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It's really annoying when yuo find that bits have been butchered.
If you were to remove the entire panel, could it be repaired at the back with fibreglass perhaps? Or might it be worth trying to find a good panel on Ebay? Utlimately it's going to be what best works for you and holds the radio properly. |
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arcascomp **
Joined: 25 Jan 2016 Posts: 62 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 15:54 Post subject: |
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Actually I think my memory is cracking up! Had a look again while sitting in the car for lunch and realised it's the bit at the top of where the former cup holders fit that is cut, so apart from the trimming, the radio hole is still an intact rectangle.
Did you leave the two metal brackets that hold the original radio in place to help wedge the whole thing in?
Also noted a oddity today, the map lights and the interior light no longer work after my weekend dash digging - the digital clock up there has reset and is very weak too - where do the wires for these run? Seems I've knocked something lose. |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 17:50 Post subject: |
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I didn't see any brackets, to be honest. I was swapping one radio out for another, so all I did was to remove one mounting frame and replace it with another from the new radio.
My Challenger also has a digital clock issue, which come to think of it may well have started when I fitted the new radio. It's a bit of a tight fit and I am now thinking that I could have dislodged some wiring or connectors. My radio has a clock built in, so I haven't been too bothered about the one in the console. I will fix it eventually though.
If you haven't done so already, the overhead console is easy to remove. It's held up by six screws, two of which have moulded covers and are at the front. The other four are visible when you lower the storage flaps. After the screws are out, slide it rearwards a little and it will come away. Once lowered a tad, you'll see the connectors and I am sure you'll work out which wires are which. I don't know for certain, but I imagine the wiring runs across from there, down an A pillar and across again under the dash.
If you do fix the clock, please let me know what you did. It might save me some time. |
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arcascomp **
Joined: 25 Jan 2016 Posts: 62 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 15:44 Post subject: |
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So, got the new radio fitted in the end - standard ISO cage in place and the two metal brackets from the original Japanese radio left creating a snug fit all round.
Clock was an odd one, I also lost interior lights, map lights and the illumination of the ignition keyhole. Found the yellow wire of the ISO adapter had been spliced with some random red wire heading lord knows where using one of those nasty squash and cut connectors. The original yellow wire from the ISO had broken just prior to this splicing point, reconnected it and everything came back to life.
No idea why a wire gone to the radio should affect so much else, I think there is more to uncover electrically in my truck! |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 18:50 Post subject: |
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Thanks for the update. Glad it's sorted. |
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