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Piston Rings replacement on my 3.5 GDI from 2003


 
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 14:23    Post subject: Piston Rings replacement on my 3.5 GDI from 2003 Reply with quote

Hello,

I'm about to go for piston rings replacement on my 3.5 GDI (auto garbox) and I was wondernig if it's possible to do it underneath.

As far as I know, the fact to pull out the engine from its bay can be complicated with auto gearbox.

So, I'd like to know if it's possible to pull out the pistons from the block as passing underneath the car. I surely need to take off the sump and probably the front axle ???

Thanks for any help provided,

Cheers,
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 14:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

nobody ???
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trekker
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 14:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry you're not having replies.    I'm not familiar with this engine, but I'd be most surprised if the pistons could pass between the crankshaft and the block. I think they're out from the top.
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 14:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks trekker
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hutchy
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 20:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

you should get them out once the heads are off and the sump off there should be enough room to lift them out ..yes the front diff will have to come out to make room for dropping the sump..to be fair it,s no big deal taking the engine out,it would be easier to remove the heads then use a couple of old head bolts and lift it out with an engine hoist,if you do remove the engine when the torque converter bolts are removed get a flat piece of steel about 2/3" drill one hole in the end and use a vacant bell housing bolt hole.. bolt the flat steel in place and make sure it is tight against the torque converter,the flat steel will ensure the converter stays seated,making reassembly much easier Wink
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2016 22:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Hutchy,
I was told to block the torque coverter so to keep it against the gearbox.
And I think I'll go for engine hoist in that case.
Cheers mate,
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hutchy
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 8:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

it would be easier with the engine out that way your not leaning over and that way you can get everything done right,just make sure you get the end gap of the rings right also check the big end bearings if it were me i would replace all the big end bearings again check the gap on them and also the main bearings on the crank clean all the oil ways and galleries out and replace all the gaskets as well...check the cylinder liners and maybe give them a light hone as it will help the new piston rings seat better Wink
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 15:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that's for sure,  once the engine's out, I'll go for complete overhaul.

There's only one thing that I still don't know how to manage which is torque converter blocking.
I'll certainly will go under the engine bay to check the possibilities before going for bell housing nuts unscrewing.

Ideally, i f I could get a scheme or a photo or a plan of a plain piece of steel which will block the torque converter against the gearbox...
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radiomike
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2016 16:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

What makes you think that piston rings are needed, have you done a compression test or a leak down test with the engine hot?  Fitting new rings to worn bores is not a great idea, there is also a chance of the top ring breaking when it hits the wear ridge at the top.

As hutchy mentioned, if you do strip it down have a good look at the bottom end, they are known to be somewhat fragile.
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 11:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks radiomike,
Next month I' ll be off for two weeks so I' ll start the overhaul with compression test first.
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hutchy
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 11:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

like Radiomike said the bottom ends are fragile but thats because people do not look after them,they need the oil changing every 4 months as it does get diluted with fuel and it,s the fuel that eats the bearings away...always use a good fully synthetic my 1997 gdi runs on shell helix ultra 5/40 and is changed every 4 months,also once the bottom is rebuilt strip the valves out and clean all the carbon off them and in the intake tracks of the heads,but do not forget to clean out the inlet manifold as well....one thing you can do to help it is fit an oil catch can between the breather pipe that comes of the rocker to the inlet manifold,the oil that is circulated from the rocker into the inlet coats the inside with a film of oil even on the inlet valves and as there is no fuel to wash the oil off the valves like a normal aspirated engine it gets baked on with the heat..this is what causes the carbon to build up...all direct injection engines petrol or diesel suffer this... Wink
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 8:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

hutchy,

I think I missunderstood but you were changing your oil EVERY 4 MONTHS ???

I regularly do the oil change one per year, not sooner and not later.
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hutchy
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 9:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is correct i am changing the oil every 4 months as the oil slowly gets dilutued by fuel....
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arrmoo
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 9:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, fair enough

how many miles / (kilometers Wink do you make between oil changes ?
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