The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

peteinchad · Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 20:36 Post subject:

Remember the days when schools taught useful stuff like woodwork and metalwork?

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BennTheHuman · Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 21:29 Post subject:

OK, Update!!!

After running around like a madman trying to get from one side of Lincoln to the other in rush hour (2-3x longer journeys thanks to the amazing traffic management Rolling Eyes

) to hit eurocarparts up for a new plug before it closed I have some good news... some bad news too, but it's positive on the whole

I have my old plug out! I jacked up the rear as high as I could so as little fluid would come out, then pried it with a flat head screwdriver whilst turning the ratchet and it came out. Shoved some PTFE around it and put it back in - wouldn't seal AT ALL and fluid was still pissing out... fearing the worst I got it back out and thankfully its the PLUG that's been stripped of its thread! Once all the fluid had drained I put my little finger in the drain to feel the threads and they appear intact!

The bad news - the plug from ECP was WAAAAAY too big, I think it's for the engine oil sump, not the A/T one.

So here I am. The sump drain is plugged up with a bucked underneath to capture any drops. The new fluid is in my oil drain tray (which I conveniently thoroughly cleaned earlier today so is uncontaminated!), covered and in the safety of my garage, and tomorrow I will start my quest to find a drain plug that actually fits!

My plan is to fit it, then use the 3.5L of new ATF I didn't use today first, followed by the stuff I drained out this evening if I need a top up. So far I'm only £2.79, for a useless plug and PTFE tape, down. I have just flushed my ATF for a third time in 4 days though, so silver linings!

I seriously wish I had had ANY sort of mechanical, metal working or wood working education in school. I left 10 years ago and the most I learned was how to make a decent mitre joint with some pine...

BennTheHuman · Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 21:51 Post subject:

stripped plug (left) next to ECP replacement plug (right)

closer shot of the stripped plug

peteinchad · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 6:10 Post subject:

Just check that the threads are not just clogged up with metal from the threads from the hole.

Use a screwdriver to pick out the metal from the threads. It looks a different colour to the bolt.

Simon_W · ******* Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford

I had a search to see if I could find the thread size for you, but only found posts where others had also stripped the threads on the gearbox sump. At least you're not alone in having done this!

Auto Box Drain Plug

Auto gearbox sump removal 2.8 LWB

If Pete reckons you could drill/tap it without risking swarf in the box, then I'm certain that a helicoil-type thread repair is the solution. I repaired an oil inlet on my cylinder head with one, and it's not only dead easy to do, but it's worked perfectly and provided a stronger thread than before.

This kind of thing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Helicoil-Thread-Repair-Inserts-Spare-Kit-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-M14-0-825mm-1-75mm-/281938550348

Do you have any means of measuring the thread on that sump plug once the threads are cleaned up? You need both the diameter and the pitch.

BennTheHuman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 9:54 Post subject:

Simon_W · ******* Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford

BennTheHuman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 14:29 Post subject:

Thanks Simon,

I decided not to remove the sump as it looked like too much work (I know... so lazy), but if I do, the torque values are in my Haynes manual

I ended up getting the plug from milners and it is actually an M10. Tried to install it but it was going the same way as the previous one so I stopped. Time to order a helicoil kit... just measuring the thread pitch and hopefully it'll be back on the road tomorrow!

BennTheHuman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 14:43 Post subject:

peteinchad · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 15:11 Post subject:

That kit I linked to doesn't go as small as M10 so is useless.

How are you intending to do the repair?

Red rubber grease will work - it's not the best lubricant for cutting threads but the hole is not very deep so you don't need to worry about wear on the tap. All the grease is for is to catch the bits of metal and provide a bit of lubrication.

BennTheHuman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 15:31 Post subject:

It's going to have to be done from under the car on my drive. On axle stands and then grease up the drill bit and tap to catch as much swarf as possible. I've gone for this instead:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001V8GI56/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

Simon_W · ******* Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford

I use an aerosol cutting oil, as it's easier to apply.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Lubricants+%26+Sprays/sd2795/Cutting+%26+Drilling+Cooling+Lubricant/p75018

But for just one drill/tap you could use pretty much anything, such as ordinary 3in1 oil. You'll get a new drill with the helicoil kit, so you shouldn't have any problems drilling. The trick with the tap, if you haven't done it before, is to get it started and then just cut a little bit of thread at a time. Wind back a little each time to allow the swarf to clear. Take it slowly! The swarf should all fall down, so it's only the very last bit of the drill/tap process that presents a risk.

BennTheHuman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 15:59 Post subject:

peteinchad · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 16:08 Post subject:

BennTheHuman · Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 16:12 Post subject:

Well, I like to think if I'm going to do it at all, I'll do it right...

The reality is that I do it wrong, mess up, buy expensive stuff to compensate for messing up and eventually end up marginally better off than I was before Very Happy