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some play in bouth front wheels


 
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berget
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 16:34    Post subject: some play in bouth front wheels Reply with quote

hi

yesterday i drove about 9 hours to pick up my "new" off roader / daily driver Smile

it's an 1987 Pajero - converted from petrol to diesel (2.5TD) - awsome vehicle with 31" wheels and spacers.

however, when i got home i jacked the car up and discoverd that there where some play (a good deal) in bouth front wheels.

is this normal on this cars? this is my first Pajero...  or is it wheel bearings?
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 17:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello, welcome to the club.

Check wheel bearings - they are adjustable.

Also check track rod ends and upper and lower steering ball joints.
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trekker
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 11:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi berget.

You've bought a solid truck that with regular maintenance ans attention to worn parts will last for many more years. Watch out for rust.

As pete said, the front wheel bearings are adjustable, being taper roller bearings, there is a process if you have auto hubs.

Buy yourself a "Haynes Repair Manual", 1983 to 1996, our Mk1 are covered well. This POCUK sell them in their shop.

Come on here anytime, lots of sound advice for free.   Laughing
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berget
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for your replay.
i will lift the car and check later Smile

the car got a small leak from the transfer box front seal (i think)  what oil should i refill in the transferbox?

is it the same transfer box for all mk1? or how do i check witch one i got, so i can order new parts.
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trekker
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 16:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use gearbox oil EP 85/90.

Pretty certain all the Mk1s had the same transfer case.

The front wheel hubs are mounted on an upper and lower ball joint, so be sure the slack you feel in each wheel is not from these joints.
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berget
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 18:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

trekker wrote:
Use gearbox oil EP 85/90.

Pretty certain all the Mk1s had the same transfer case.

The front wheel hubs are mounted on an upper and lower ball joint, so be sure the slack you feel in each wheel is not from these joints.


ok, i checked the oil lvl today, and the oil in the transer box was all gray and watery, so i got some 75W-90 SYNT API GK-4 API GK-5 and changed it.
hope that oil works ok?

also, how do i adjust the wheel bearings? Smile
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venn105
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 19:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

You also state it has wheel spacers, make sure they are solid ones and not ones with adjustable studs............could also be the spacers causing the issue(wheels have come off in the past).
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berget
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

do 75W-90 SYNT API GK-4 API GK-5  work fine in the transfer box?

can any explane or are there any guides how to adjust the wheel bearings. And how to change the fronst seal on the transfer case? Smile
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

berget wrote:
do 75W-90 SYNT API GK-4 API GK-5  work fine in the transfer box?


I use 75W GL4


berget wrote:

can any explane or are there any guides how to adjust the wheel bearings.


This is posted on another thread HERE


Quote:
Adjustment is dead easy and you don't even need to take the wheels off.

1. Jack up wheel using chassis or suspension member.
2. remove hub cap & prise off dust cap from end of stub axle.
3. Remove circlip and bolts from inner hub and remove.
4. Remove 2 screws from ring. I use a pair of small mole grips as the heads normally chew.
5. remove outer ring.
6. tighten inner ring until play is minimised, but wheel still turns freely and without any undue noises.
7. place outer ring back on stub axle and find a position where all the holes line up. (You may need to adjust the inner ring slightly, back off is safer than tightening at this stage)
8. Ensure screws are nice and tight.
9. Refit inner hub, bolts & circlip. You may need to pull the axle out using a bolt or even pliers.
10. Fit dust cap and centre cap.
11. repeat on other wheel
12. Attempt to remove axle grease from jeans and best t-shirt
13. Hide greasy items in laundry bin
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trekker
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi  Berget

I asked you if your truck has Auto Free Hubs fitted as original ? The hub screw on cap has this wording stamped into it.

The procedure given above covers the non Auto Hub version.  The auto hub version requires you remove the 6 Allen cap screws around the hum and slide this off. From then on you can follow the advice above.

When you come to fitting the Auto hub, take great care to align the key in the auto hub floating plate with the keyway in the shaft, a few attempts may be necessary to feel the parts are aligned. When aligned the flanges will fit flush, if not aligned there will be a small gap, do not try and pull this up with the Allen screws.

Buy the Manual I have detailed above. !!

Enjoy your truck.
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berget
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 17:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

trekker wrote:
Hi  Berget

I asked you if your truck has Auto Free Hubs fitted as original ? The hub screw on cap has this wording stamped into it.

The procedure given above covers the non Auto Hub version.  The auto hub version requires you remove the 6 Allen cap screws around the hum and slide this off. From then on you can follow the advice above.

When you come to fitting the Auto hub, take great care to align the key in the auto hub floating plate with the keyway in the shaft, a few attempts may be necessary to feel the parts are aligned. When aligned the flanges will fit flush, if not aligned there will be a small gap, do not try and pull this up with the Allen screws.

Buy the Manual I have detailed above. !!

Enjoy your truck.


oh sorry, did not see that.  im unsure, i think it's manual?

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berget
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 21:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

trekker wrote:
Hi  Berget

I asked you if your truck has Auto Free Hubs fitted as original ? The hub screw on cap has this wording stamped into it.

The procedure given above covers the non Auto Hub version.  The auto hub version requires you remove the 6 Allen cap screws around the hum and slide this off. From then on you can follow the advice above.

When you come to fitting the Auto hub, take great care to align the key in the auto hub floating plate with the keyway in the shaft, a few attempts may be necessary to feel the parts are aligned. When aligned the flanges will fit flush, if not aligned there will be a small gap, do not try and pull this up with the Allen screws.

Buy the Manual I have detailed above. !!

Enjoy your truck.


manage to adjust them today, Thanks for the help!
took only 15-20min per side.

however i noticed that on one side the locking ring at the end whas missing... i should get a new one... right?
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trekker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 17:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that the locking ring into which 4 screws fit and lock the bearing lock nut ?.  If so, that ring and the 4 screws are essential.
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berget
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 18:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

trekker wrote:
Is that the locking ring into which 4 screws fit and lock the bearing lock nut ?.  If so, that ring and the 4 screws are essential.


no, all those are there, i mean the locking ring witch is behind the hub
one of these


¨
is it possible to overtighting the bearing?

when i adjust my bearing i screw the inner ring as tight as posible, - the wheel was still spinning freely without any noice.

however, today when i was out driving (down a long hill (road) i got a extremly high metal to metal creaky sound) and it was going on 8km on flat road untill i got home.

after 2hours i started the car and drow 8km to my garage, the creaky dissapeard after 10 meters - i might think this was the breaks???  or can it be the wheel bearings?
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Jowter
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 20:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

They must not be tightened as per a normal nut & bolt thread! You might have damaged them - only time will tell. The way to set them correctly is to use a spring balance to rotate the hub so that it starts to turn at a set lbs force.
Best to read up on whatever you are planning to work on to get a more in-depth idea of what's involved. It's not the ideal situation to learn by your mistakes - others have made them in the past so best to learn from them.
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