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l200 I need advice 4 timing belt change plz help :(

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Age: 47
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 28 May 2011
Posts: 2
Location: uk

PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 15:35    Post subject: l200 I need advice 4 timing belt change plz help :( Reply with quote

Hi my l200 is a 2.5 diesel on a 2006 reg last of the old shape, Would somebody be able to give me a guide on how to change the timing belt and balance belt

please. the engine is 4D56 if this helps. I`ve changed a lot on diesel cars and small vans but never a 4x4.

Thank you for any advice

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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 15:35    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!

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Age: 49
Zodiac: Sagittarius
Joined: 24 Sep 2013
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Location: welshpool

PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 9:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

have u had any luck yet I need to change mine as well
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Posts: 1
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 17:02    Post subject: Reply with quote


Sorry for bumping up this old post, but was wondering if anyone has had success changing their timing belt. I need to replace mine and have not replaced the timing belt on my L200 yet, only on my dad's Hilux. Is it the same premise or are other factors involved?

Cheers thumbright
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Age: 53
Zodiac: Virgo
Joined: 09 Sep 2018
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Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 3:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surprised there's no reply to this yet.
The 2.5 is one of the easiest to do.
Lots of people don't bother with the balance shaft belt, but it's very little extra work and it makes the engine much sweeter, so I would always do both.
Do not under any circumstances reuse the old balance shaft belt. It's very tempting, as it doesn't lead a hard life, but if it does let go, it will most likely get under the cam belt and strip that, leading to smashed rockers and possibly bent valves, or even broken camshaft.
Pop out the rad, for access. Ditto the air filter housing. Take off the belts for the A/C, if fitted, and power steering and alternator. The alternator will need long arms if working from above, or a certain amount of manual dexterity, if working from below.
It's been a while since I did one, so I can't recall whether the waterpump pulley needs to come off , but it will be very obvious, if it does.
There are manufacturers timing marks on the pulleys, but I rarely bother with them, preferring to use Tipp-ex, or similar, to make my own marks. The crank pulley bolt will be very tight. Lock the ring gear if you're trying to undo it with a breaker bar. I use a pneumatic impact gun, nowadays, but I used to wedge a breaker bar against the chassis and give the starter a dart, when I was young and reckless. This needs to be torqued up properly, when you finish.
With that out of the way, take the belt cover off and make your marks on the pulleys/line up the existing ones.
Release the tension from the balance shaft belt and remove it. The balance shafts are free turning and will rotate under gravity when you release them. That's not a problem.
Now release the tension on the cam belt and pull it off. Be careful not to turn the crank or cam shafts now.
Spin the tensioner pulleys by hand, listening and feeling for any roughness, or dry rumbling sounds.
Replace them if in any doubt, or if they weren't done last time the belt was done.
Carefully feed on the new belt, starting at the crank, working around the cam, keeping it tight, and over the tensioner last, making sure the marks you're using still line up. If your tensioner is spring-loaded, let the spring apply pressure to the belt and nip it up. If not, apply hand pressure to the tensioner before nipping up.
Check the marks and, assuming they're ok , turn the crank two full revolutions and check them again.
Everyone has their own way of gauging the tension on a timing belt, but a rule of thumb is you should be able to twist the longest run through a maximum of 90 degrees... 45 to the left and 45 to the right. If it's too loose it will drum against the cover and may skip teeth. If too tight it will hum, or whine, and have a much shorter life.
Repeat for the balance shafts, though these are less critical, then put it all back together, remembering to properly tighten the crank pulley bolt.
If that works loose it will ruin the nose of the crank, so well worth re-checking a couple of times over the next few hundred miles.
Hope that's clear enough.
I can generally get them done in an afternoon, but doing it on the drive and not being familiar with the awful alternator position, allow a full day.
Good luck

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