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Finding glow plug issue


 
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Joel93
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Age: 30
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2018 22:03    Post subject: Finding glow plug issue Reply with quote

My shogun sport takes a few turns to start , it’s not a big issue with the warm weather but I’d like to sort it over the summer months . Iv owned the truck a couple of months.

So the relay clicks (and looks new) and I get power in from the battery (wire nearest the front of the truck) but no power leaving, the bus bar shows no power and all glow plugs are new . How can I trace the problem ?

Iv also just fitted a button to help for now but this only supplies the bus bar with 4v ?
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 4:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a read of THIS
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Joel93
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Age: 30
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Location: Wrexham

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 20:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was very helpful thanks. I have managed to wire up a button from the battery with an in-line 20amp fuse (I tried 15amp to start but it blew) Then on to the push button, the next wire I ran from the button and onto the solenoid connection nearest the bulk head I’m getting approx 10volts at the busbar now and pressing the button for 5 seconds fires the truck up straight away.
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Joel93
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Age: 30
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Location: Wrexham

PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 20:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I’d add pictures for people looking to fit there own manual glow button.
Here’s how it looks.

Button fitted into a secret hole on shogun sport dashboard , 20mm button fits perfect.
20amp in-line fuse under the glove box.



20amp in-line fuse under the glove box.



Here’s the hole if you look close at you dash you can see the outline in the plastic ,I poked through using a screwdriver and finished off with a Stanley knife.




Here where my wires run they are the red wires (battery connection and solenoid conection)



Solinoid conection on the rear connect point.

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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 20:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume you have a voltmeter.

Check the volts on the two big connections on the solenoid.

One should be 12V (ish) all the time. The other should be 12V (ish) only when the relay clicks on and is only live until it clicks off after about 10 seconds (so you need someone to turn on the ignition while you measure the voltage) and you can only do it on a cold engine.

If you haven't got 12V (ish) constant on one terminal (the one nearest the inner wing iirc) then check the big fuse on the front battery terminal - mine is 80A
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 20:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just realised that yours is a Sport - so the terminals may be in a different place to mine. But the test is done the same way.
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Joel93
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2018 20:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iv done the tests earlier today , I have one constant live (front connection) and the rear connection never gets a feed even when coil light is on ,also the spade connection had a reading earlier today when the coil light was on and now I get no feed at all on the spade. That is why iv fitted the button , but I’d like to sort the real problem if I can find it . Nice to have a back up button.

What else can I check to find the fault ?
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 5:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remove the small wire from the spade connector and put a wire from the battery positive terminal to the spade - you should hear the relay click and you should have 12V at both terminals. Remove the wire and power will disappear from the rear terminal.

If you have no power from the small wire then it maybe the glowplug ECU - or the engine temperature sensor may not be working.

On the standard Pajero the temperature sensor has two terminals in a T shape - one terminal works the temperature gauge and the other controls the glowplug ECU.
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Joel93
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Location: Wrexham

PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 15:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iv dont that connected spade connection straight to battery but no reading on the bus bar. Is 10v going to be enuf come winter ? I think it’s the wire or switch restricting it from getting the full 12v
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 16:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

What voltage have you got if you connect your meter across the two battery terminals - with engine not running?
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Joel93
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 17:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just over 12v . I think it’s the wires as the first set of wires I used only read 4v, I’m just wondering if 10v will get the plugs hot enuf.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 17:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel93 wrote:
I’m just wondering if 10v will get the plugs hot enuf.


You will just have to try it - I have no idea if it will be enough.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2018 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel93 wrote:
Just over 12v . I think it’s the wires as the first set of wires I used only read 4v, I’m just wondering if 10v will get the plugs hot enuf.


Aren't you going to get some voltage drop when the current flows through the plugs? The resistance is fairly low.  Also you're going to deplete the battery as you apply the voltage to the plugs.

If you disconnect the wire to the bus bar and then take a voltage reading, this will show the voltage that's supplied by the relay.

Or maybe I've missed something as I haven't followed the whole thread.
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Joel93
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Age: 30
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Location: Wrexham

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2018 17:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes possibly I don’t mind it being slightly lower voltage just wanted to see if I would do the job , it won’t deplete the battery any more than if the glow plug circuit was controlling its self. So far it’s worked perfectly fine but the weather has been warm.
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natethegreat
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 23:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello I a mk having the same issue here, got 4 blue print glow plugs then noticed the 80a fuse on the battery was kaput so got a new one still no joy. How do I test the temp sensor? And how can I test the glow plug ecu?
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