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Paj 2.8 engine(photos needed)


 
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bispy
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Age: 65
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 17:23    Post subject: Paj 2.8 engine(photos needed) Reply with quote

Hello Mitzy lovers,
I managed to get myself into a bit of a pickle whilst replacing my head with a new one. A friend turned up to help remove the old one but isn’t on hand to replace it and unfortunately I didn’t bother taking photos during the removal process. Anyway I’ve now replaced the new head and the chain tensioner and just realised I would have been better off bolting on the temp sensor housing before replacing the head cos space is very limited for one of the 12 mm bolts. This is as far as I am. There seems to be a oil feed pipe that I think connects from the oil pressure switch to the cylinder head and I have s choice of 12 mm banjo bolts, one with a large hole in the side and one with a smaller hole in the side. Not sure which one to go with, but it’s critical to use the right one I’m sure. So what I’m asking is please can someone take some close up photos of both sides of the engine showing where the turbo pipes go and any useful images to aid reassembly. Also replacing the inlet and exhaust manifolds, I think there are different length bolts, but again I’m not sure about this. I have all the gaskets to finish the job, I just need some photographic help,


Cheers guys, thanks a lot
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 17:23    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 22:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found these links useful when I replaced the head gasket on my 2.8.  You might find some photos or info that's of help to you.

Cylinder head removal post: (see page 3)
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=111637&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

Removal of exhaust manifold:
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=114879&sid=32ea4439dbbb0d6e04344862348a6b04

Chain tensioner:
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=72057

Head bolt removal diagram:
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=133536&sid=a487d96bf27ef14879203613c98ece29

For TDC
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1275324&sid=c7bfca9c09afde8842d42efb6447e680

Draining engine block and refilling with antifreeze:
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1311480#1311480


For the banjo bolts, I'd expect the variance in hole size to be reflected in the pipe diameter on the banjo joint. Hopefully that will give you a clue as to which one goes where.
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Mark3
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 15:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

Banjo bolt with the bigger holes is for the vac pump oil supply  Very Happy
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sscooby
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 18:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simon_W wrote:


Hi Simon,

It seems you are a very senior member and have a great knowledge of Pajero. I am Newbie owner of this vehicle and first problem i have faced with this vehicle was its head was cracked before i have bought it, i have gone through the process of giving it to a workshop and replacing the head, reusing the same bolts, it was all good for few months but it again started to build some air in the cooling system, i have asked mechanic to tighten the head bolts again and after that issue was gone for a while , but it is happening again and now i am able to open the cover myself and torque the bolts again, it seems the bolt which is close to the driver side always getting much loose for some reason, i am thinking to order the original new head bolts along with washers as i am not able to see any washers under the bolts, please can you give any suggestion if this is a head bolt issue or a washer issue or something else is wrong and will it be OK to just change the bolts without having to change the gasket as the issue seems to go away after tightening the bolts close to inner side. Also the new bolts have 4 longer bolts , could it be that mechanic have used longer bolts in wrong place? what is the location for longer ones. If i remove one bolt at a time and replace it with a new one and put a washer under it and give it the torque well and next bolt , will it work?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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NDZ
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 19:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head bolts - the washers are important (they even have a right and wrong way up) and without washers I expect a bolt could bottom out before getting up to torque spec. The head bolts have a tightening sequence for a head replacement and its quite suspect that a garage wouldn't put new ones in for £30 and double suspect that the washers are missing. I've never re-used old bolts so don't know what problems that can create but once a set of new ones are up to torque they will be tight, as in not going anywhere and needing a breaker bar to get moving again. The threads could be worn on the block but I'd expect that problem to show up while tightening. As I remember it the bolt lengths were obvious as to where they belonged but I'd made notes anyway and don't know if they can be fitted incorrectly without it being obvious.

Coolant - any idea if you are losing coolant or just getting air in the system? Its usually more effective to monitor the coolant level at the rad neck when cold than guess what might be happening in the expansion tank. Providing the rad cap and expansion pipe are good then if you are seeing the levels drop at the rad neck its a pretty good sign that coolant is getting lost.

And yes, hopefully Simon and the rest of the gang will chime in with some advice.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 20:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

sscooby wrote:

It seems you are a very senior member and have a great knowledge of Pajero. I am Newbie owner of this vehicle ........................


You flatter me! Everything I know has been learned from other forum members who have posted their own experience and knowledge. I am a mere bodger compared to others. We all try to help each other out where we can, and that's all part of the pleasure of Mitsubishi 4x4 ownership.

On to your problem.  I can only reinforce what NDZ has written above. I've only done a head replacement once, and fitted new bolts and washers for peace of mind. The washers are vital in spreading the tensile load of the bolt onto the cylinder head and also to prevent the bolt head cutting into the soft alloy cylinder head.  Some head bolts have integral washers, and I am really not sure if they are fitted without a loose washer as well or not. I am sure the suppliers will tell you.

It's quite possible that the four longer bolts are in the wrong location, and that would certainly prevent them from torquing down properly.  I can't remember the location of the four long bolts, but seem to recall that it was obvious by looking at the cylinder head where they go. It's where the landing for the four bolts are highest.

If I were you I would loosen all the head bolts using the approved procedure, make sure they are all in their correct location, and then torque them up again. It's really important that the order of operation and the torquing methods are followed precisely. Providing the gasket isn't obviously damaged, I'd refit it.  

Loosening




Tightening

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sscooby
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 6:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much NDZ and Simon for your prompt replies and great suggestions, the coolant gets transferred into bottle and doesn't come back and after tightening the loose bolts it works well and i have changed the radiator cap earlier when this problem started happening after head replacement.

Now i am more motivated to try this out on my own and get the new bold and wahers and will follow the sequence. I will share the results.

With the exact model details i am ordering 14 pieces of this ME200426 and 4 pieces of ME200427 from amayama along with washers after installing them i will share the results.

Thanks again.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 19:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

sscooby wrote:

.... i am ordering 14 pieces of this ME200426 and 4 pieces of ME200427 from amayama along with washers after installing them i will share the results.


I can confirm that those are the correct part numbers for the head bolts for the 2.8 4M40 engine. There are sets available and you might get a better price ordering that way. For the record, the washers are MD020733.

I hope that this fixes your problem. Don't forget to make sure the tapped holes for the bolts are clean and dry before fitting the bolts.
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sscooby
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 8:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Simon_W"]
sscooby wrote:

I can confirm that those are the correct part numbers for the head bolts for the 2.8 4M40 engine. There are sets available and you might get a better price ordering that way. For the record, the washers are MD020733.

I hope that this fixes your problem. Don't forget to make sure the tapped holes for the bolts are clean and dry before fitting the bolts.


Thanks Simon, i will follow your advice.
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