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Buying advice - V20 versus V60


 
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Carnutbmw
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 22:47    Post subject: Buying advice - V20 versus V60 Reply with quote

Hi all,

I am considering to buy a 4x4 vehicle for greenlaning, and the Pajero/Shogun/Montero (with petrol engine and auto gearbox) is one of the candidates. Given my budget the V20 (1991-1999) and V60 (1999-2006) are the obvious generations to look at.

Having read various buying guides I found a lot of useful information, but so far I haven't quite managed to make a sensible comparison of both generations in terms of reliability and longevity. A few negatives I found regarding the V60:

1) they rust quite badly;
2) gearboxes tend to wear quickly (I read that replacement is frequently necessary at 60.000 miles or so?);
3) suspension parts may wear early as well;
4) changing plugs is a hassle because the inlet manifold has to be removed.


> On the above, and other aspects concerning reliability/longevity, how do both generations compare?
> The V20 being older, is it worse? Or maybe it is better, as cost cutting has become more common in later years?
> In terms of rust resistance, is the fact that the V20 has a ladder frame and the V60 does not of any relevance?


I'd be very interested to hear your opinions!
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Carnutbmw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 16:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there nobody who has experience with both generations?
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 18:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the MkII - simpler than the MkIII.

Other people like the MkIII but I would never have one - but that is just my opinion.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 20:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carnutbmw wrote:
Is there nobody who has experience with both generations?


I am not sure I am able to answer your question but I think I get it.

I have a mk11 and a model 3 but my model 2 is diesel while my mk 3 is petrol.
As far as rust goes, both mine were imports and I know from research that the shogun versions are rustier by far than the Pajeros. The problem is the UK weather. I had a shogun Pinin and it was a rot box.  Even when looking for a model 3 I would ask about welding etc. and nearly all had some rust history.  My diesel is 26 years old and seems to have good chassis life and the model 3 is 18 years old and looks great underneath.

Mine are auto so can't speak for gearboxes except to say why not get an auto!!

Yes the petrol is more technical but one reason I went petrol is the vilification of diesel and that it is 10p litre more costly BUT to offset that the V6 uses 97 RON which is more than diesel if you use it.

Regarding the monocoque/integral style chassis on Mk3 I can't say it seems much different unless you want to take off the body.

As for model 2 v model 3 there are pros and cons. Model 3 has IMHO a better rear suspension, better steering system, better auto box not taking in to account the obvious later better tech spec. On the down side model 3 is wider and longer and seems to have less ground clearance.

I get 25 to 35 mpg in my  diesel and 15 to 25 in my petrol.  I bought diesel years ago hoping the engine would last the life of the chassis and I think I was right - it has done about a quarter of a million miles so far.  My model 3 has 79000 miles on the clock some of which was km so it is under trial currently and TBH it has some problems but even so goes like a rocket; in fact it may be too powerful for snow and ice but hey, I love the jet like thrust.

I suppose the interesting point is I won't part with my Mk 11 cos I love it. I've MoT'd it for a year and parked it.
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Carnutbmw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 23:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks helijohn, that's useful information!

How many miles do your Pajero's have on them, and have they been free of problems? I guess you had them rust proofed after importing?

Did you buy the cars in the UK, or did you use an agent in Japan to buy them for you? If the latter is the case, I'd be interested to know what agent you used, and whether you recommend them.

As for the transmission, an automatic gearbox is what I'm looking for. What I read about gearboxes wearing early - I'm not sure whether this applies to auto- or manual gearboxes, or perhaps both.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 0:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carnutbmw wrote:
Thanks helijohn, that's useful information!

How many miles do your Pajero's have on them, and have they been free of problems? I guess you had them rust proofed after importing?

Did you buy the cars in the UK, or did you use an agent in Japan to buy them for you? If the latter is the case, I'd be interested to know what agent you used, and whether you recommend them.

As for the transmission, an automatic gearbox is what I'm looking for. What I read about gearboxes wearing early - I'm not sure whether this applies to auto- or manual gearboxes, or perhaps both.


Bought in UK already used for about a year in each case. Diesel has been round the clock, petrol has about 80k. Diesel never failed an MoT in all the 18 years I have owned it. Had an issue with  tester this year which was later resolved.  I waxoyled and  undersealed the diesel when I got it as it was clean like a new pin. Done similar to the V6 but used Bilt Hamber Dynax UB cos it is easier. lol
I searched for years to find a 4x4 that would suit me like my 2.5TD did and they came and went. I have had Vitaras  by the handful for many years cos I love Suzuki. Apart from J-e-e-p I would possibly go back to Suzuki. I had a Freelander but I didn't feel at home - the Mk2 pajero is the cause of that.  Rav 4 didn't suit either and had two.........all this time I have kept my 2.5. The mk2 is the only one I would endorse unreservedly though the mk 3 has so much more going for it that it is a close second but from 1999 choice has been restricted.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 3:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Total rubbish about the gearboxes as they are well above average build quality and the Pajero/Shogun was originally designed for an auto box and a manual was an afterthought, who claims these boxes are weak? because if you look at the Aisin auto box it is one of the strongest and most durable around and due to this many were abused by owners running on a shoestring or lacking the essential maintenance they need, although this is minimal; despite this they are still strong boxes after years of abuse and certainly far superior to other 4X4 offerings from LRJ and other manufacturers.

What goes wrong with them:

Mainly abuse from inexperienced owners.
Failure to change the auto transmission fluid as it isn't a scheduled item due the wide ranging way the vehicles are used, mainly by companies towing heavy weights, and it is a visual inspection of the ATF.
Failure to use the correct ATF as the MK III only uses Dia Queen SP III and this is vehicle specific, some users think they can use anything, they can't, they can only use SP III and many people see III and use Dexron III instead, if it isn't SP III then don't use it.
Failing to cycle through the various gear modes periodically as they can become sticky through lack of use, many people switch from 2H to 4H and never lock the centre diff or go into low range.
Gearbox switches need periodic cleaning to prevent crud building up around them.
Failing to learn and use the correct selection procedure.

Solutions:

Change your ATF periodically and examine it regularly, pull the transmission dipstick and smell it, if it has a sweet smell then it is on its way for changing, similarly, if it is anything other than cherry red then change it.

Only use Dia Queen SP III and nothing else, this is backwards compatible and can be used in earlier auto boxes on the Mk II models and is a useful upgrade, many of us use Millers Millermatic SP III WS.

Find a piece of grass and exercise your transmission, go from 2H to 4H and let it engage, then go to locked centre diff position and let it engage, then go into low range and let it engage, then reverse the procedure and repeat it several times as this exercises your selectors and motors. Do this monthly if possible if using off road regularly, or quarterly if using solely on road.

Keep your gearbox switches clean, never make the mistake of blasting them with a jetwash as the pressures from these force water past the seals and into the switch, only use a hosepipe to do this, let them drain and spray them with WD40 as this is a water displacer and this removes the water from the switches, leave to evaporate and spray liberally with a good maintenance spray as this helps the rubber seals and prevents crud sticking to them.  

Learn the correct procedure for checking the ATF level which is simple, run the vehicle until the transmission is hot, stop your vehicle and LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING, go through all the gear positions with your footbrake fully on to prime the circuits, then get out WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING and pull your transmission dipstick and wipe it, insert fully and pull straight out to check your level: NEVER DO THIS WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING AS THIS GIVES THE WRONG LEVELS and top up with small amounts of ATF to get it close to the top mark without it going over the top mark.

How long to these gearboxes last? I regularly see auto boxes exceeding 500,000 miles with nothing more than a little care and the ATF will generally last around 5 years between changes under average circumstances, often much longer.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 10:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

assassin wrote:
Total rubbish about the gearboxes as they are well above average build quality

Glad you mentioned that about the model 3 using SP111 - I am not at that stage yet as I am still waiting on remedials for lash adjusters - and I might have overlooked it.
I love the autos I have possibly because they are the superselect. On my 2.5 I engage 4x4 periodically - it used to be once or twice a week when I was at fields flying - and I only use 4x4 on my V6.
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alienidea
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 15:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

I,ve owned both the first was a mk2 lwb diesel pajero1994 and now a mk3 lwb diesel shogun2004 .If i had to choose between the them the mk2 would be my chose simple to fix /well built /parts can be cheaper .So why did i buy a mk3  it has sub 60k clean /toys  Laughing and was already fitted with a towbar .If i could have found a mk2 in the same condtion i would have got that instead ..but thats not easy as there getting a lot older now.And yes pajero over shogun ,FYI the mk2 was a manuel gearbox but now auto all the way  Very Happy
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Carnutbmw
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 17:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

assassin wrote:
Total rubbish about the gearboxes as they are well above average build quality and the Pajero/Shogun was originally designed for an auto box and a manual was an afterthought, who claims these boxes are weak? because if you look at the Aisin auto box it is one of the strongest and most durable around and due to this many were abused by owners running on a shoestring or lacking the essential maintenance they need, although this is minimal; despite this they are still strong boxes after years of abuse and certainly far superior to other 4X4 offerings from LRJ and other manufacturers.

What goes wrong with them:

Mainly abuse from inexperienced owners.
Failure to change the auto transmission fluid as it isn't a scheduled item due the wide ranging way the vehicles are used, mainly by companies towing heavy weights, and it is a visual inspection of the ATF.
Failure to use the correct ATF as the MK III only uses Dia Queen SP III and this is vehicle specific, some users think they can use anything, they can't, they can only use SP III and many people see III and use Dexron III instead, if it isn't SP III then don't use it.
Failing to cycle through the various gear modes periodically as they can become sticky through lack of use, many people switch from 2H to 4H and never lock the centre diff or go into low range.
Gearbox switches need periodic cleaning to prevent crud building up around them.
Failing to learn and use the correct selection procedure.

Solutions:

Change your ATF periodically and examine it regularly, pull the transmission dipstick and smell it, if it has a sweet smell then it is on its way for changing, similarly, if it is anything other than cherry red then change it.

Only use Dia Queen SP III and nothing else, this is backwards compatible and can be used in earlier auto boxes on the Mk II models and is a useful upgrade, many of us use Millers Millermatic SP III WS.

Find a piece of grass and exercise your transmission, go from 2H to 4H and let it engage, then go to locked centre diff position and let it engage, then go into low range and let it engage, then reverse the procedure and repeat it several times as this exercises your selectors and motors. Do this monthly if possible if using off road regularly, or quarterly if using solely on road.

Keep your gearbox switches clean, never make the mistake of blasting them with a jetwash as the pressures from these force water past the seals and into the switch, only use a hosepipe to do this, let them drain and spray them with WD40 as this is a water displacer and this removes the water from the switches, leave to evaporate and spray liberally with a good maintenance spray as this helps the rubber seals and prevents crud sticking to them.  

Learn the correct procedure for checking the ATF level which is simple, run the vehicle until the transmission is hot, stop your vehicle and LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING, go through all the gear positions with your footbrake fully on to prime the circuits, then get out WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING and pull your transmission dipstick and wipe it, insert fully and pull straight out to check your level: NEVER DO THIS WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING AS THIS GIVES THE WRONG LEVELS and top up with small amounts of ATF to get it close to the top mark without it going over the top mark.

How long to these gearboxes last? I regularly see auto boxes exceeding 500,000 miles with nothing more than a little care and the ATF will generally last around 5 years between changes under average circumstances, often much longer.



Thanks for taking the time, that's all great advice!

Regarding the 3rd generation I read about rust problems and gearboxes wearing early in German car magazines (Autobild, Auto Motor & Sport). These magazines use statistics gathered by inspection authorities, which leads me to believe there must be some truth to it. I guess people generally buy trucks like the Pajero to tow heavy trailers, which obviously has an impact on how long the transmission lasts. On the other hand, the same applies to comparable Toyota's and Nissans, which get criticized to a lesser extent on this issue. I wasn't aware the 3rd gen Pajero has an Aisin auto box, I know Aisin has a good reputation.

How about rust, how do the 2nd and 3rd generations compare?
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Carnutbmw
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 17:55    Post subject: Parts availability Reply with quote

I was also wondering whether parts are still readily available for the 2nd generation Pajero. Are there any problems on that issue?
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 23:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

That’s because the auto is not a aisin, it’s a jatco in the gen 3 and the 1st gen 4’s.

Also, where did the idea that the Pajero was designed for the auto and the manual an afterthought come from????
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its Aisin, but some were built under licence.

Straight from Mitsubishi themselves as they were designed and a complete power pack of engine and transmission and this was an auto, they fitted the manual as an afterthought to cater to various markets.
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