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Buying Shogun with known rust issues?


 
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5hogun
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 17:11    Post subject: Buying Shogun with known rust issues? Reply with quote

New to forum so please go easy with me Smile

Seen a  2004 Shogun with a spec that I really like. Superficially it's in fabulous condition, drives beautifully and ticks all the boxes. It's a petrol, doesn't have a tow bar and has lived most of its life in a city which I should hope should have protected it against any serious off road abuse. However just under a year ago it failed its MOT due to "rear suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength backing sill" on both sides. These have obviously been repaired as it passed its MOT a few days later with no advisories and the trader selling it has just put it through another MOT. He admitted when it came in there was some rust on the bodywork but that he had stripped it off and treated it. I can't see any rust under the wheel arches now, they are very tidy nor is there any obvious rust under the sills.

As it's passed two MOTs since the original fail, can I assume the rust has been dealt with adequately and that it's deemed safe to drive? Are there further things I should inspect or demand to check for before parting with cash and if so what?
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 18:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impossible to give meaningful comments without seeing it, and of course it also depends how the price compares with others of a similar age without known issues.

Personally I'd steer clear of it. I'd rather buy a vehicle that's not needed such repairs, unless it's an absolute bargain.  You may not get much more life out of it before rust strikes again, and its value will always be limited.
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JPB
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 19:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simon_W wrote:
I'd rather buy a vehicle that's not needed such repairs


Me too, but as long as a repair has been carried out to a suitable standard and seam sealed properly where applicable, given a good coat of weld through primer before making the weld and also made by removing every trace of rust in the surrounding steelwork, then a repaired car can be as good as one that's never been rusty.
However, in this day & age of internet sales and the fact that there's a whole world of difference between a "repair" that's acceptable for test purposes and one that will actually preserve the vehicle well into the future.

Inspect the prospective purchase thoroughly or, better yet, pay an independent third party to do this for you if you have the slightest doubt. It's entirely possible to repair corroded sections to a standard so good that the work isn't detectable once completed, but I must admit that if it's a choice between a car such as my Pajero Mini - rust free from new in 1997 and soaked in Ensis V, XCP "Rust Blocker" and other preservatives as appropriate to every vulnerable area, so everything apart from the windows then! Laughing  - or a restored example that somebody else had repaired; rust free import every time for me please, it's easier to keep a car rust free than it is to repair it to that status once it's had a visit from the rust bugs.
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5hogun
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 19:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice.

I took the car to an independent garage I know and trust very well and they were totally satisfied that the corrosion that failed it at last year's MOT was minor. A small amount of welding had been done on both sides but to a high standard and coated over so that's a relief. I bought the car - it's in a fabulous condition, has all the usual toys and many more and drives very nicely.

When it was on the ramp being inspected the engine was running and when it came down after maybe 30 minutes of idling the temperature gauge had gone up to about 11o'clock. As soon as it was moved it went down again and I drove it for 30 miles today in slow traffic and on the motorway and it stayed at 8 o'clock. The chap who sold the car claimed the fan wasn't automatic and that you had to stick some special type of glue in the thermostat in summer to keep the engine cool and remove it in winter which sounds a bit implausible to me. Are there any other explanations for why in mixed driving conditions it remains rock steady but might increase when idling? Coolant is fine.

I don't think the cambelt has been done in the last ten years (car did 90,000 in its first five years with a full Mitsubishi history so probably had it done when due, but it has only done 10,000 miles since 2009. I expect it would be prudent to do  the cambelt and water pump sooner rather than later wouldn't it?
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 21:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

5hogun wrote:
Thanks for the advice.

I took the car to an independent garage I know and trust very well and they were totally satisfied that the corrosion that failed it at last year's MOT was minor. A small amount of welding had been done on both sides but to a high standard and coated over so that's a relief. I bought the car - it's in a fabulous condition, has all the usual toys and many more and drives very nicely.

When it was on the ramp being inspected the engine was running and when it came down after maybe 30 minutes of idling the temperature gauge had gone up to about 11o'clock. As soon as it was moved it went down again and I drove it for 30 miles today in slow traffic and on the motorway and it stayed at 8 o'clock. The chap who sold the car claimed the fan wasn't automatic and that you had to stick some special type of glue in the thermostat in summer to keep the engine cool and remove it in winter which sounds a bit implausible to me. Are there any other explanations for why in mixed driving conditions it remains rock steady but might increase when idling? Coolant is fine.

I don't think the cambelt has been done in the last ten years (car did 90,000 in its first five years with a full Mitsubishi history so probably had it done when due, but it has only done 10,000 miles since 2009. I expect it would be prudent to do  the cambelt and water pump sooner rather than later wouldn't it?


Glad the corrosion seems to have been properly fixed.

These vehicles have cooling fans that contain a viscous clutch. When sufficiently warmed, the clutch locks up and power is applied to the fan.  When it cools, the clutch releases again.  If the coolant is getting warm at idle, the obvious cause would be that the viscous clutch isn't working. Get it checked out asap or fix it yourself if you can.  If you leave it, you are risking a cracked cylinder head and very expensive repairs.

Total b*ll*cks about putting glue in the thermostat. It worries me that a vendor would say such cr*p.

There's no cambelt on the 3.2 engine (or the 2.8 from which it's derived). It's a timing chain.   Chains don't normally get replaced as a matter of routine. When  a chain wears and stretches, the engine makes a distinct 'chuffing' sound.

The original water pump is of high quality and I would recommend replacing it only when needed - e.g. it's leaking.
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5hogun
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 23:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks - but I have the 3.5 petrol. Is that timing belt or chain and if belt what is the interval? Service book doesn't say.
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