The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[stivi]

Hello All,

Finally bit the bullet and finalized the purchased of pajevo from japan. The car is a 1997 A/T with 44,000km auction grade 4.5. Since i have bought it sight unseen i have tried to get the cleanest possible example within a reasonable budget.
I should be receiving the car in a couple weeks time and would like to know what kind of servicing that i should do in order to have a sound car without worries.
The vehicle is accompanied with full service history but i dont have that information yet . But with that mileage what do you think should be done.
I was thinking engine oil change ( need to know which oil to use ) , transmission oil change ( need to know which oil again ) spark plugs and filters.
I see alot of people change timing belt as well . Should i look into this ?
So far that is what i was thinking but if there’s anything else i should check please feel free to share your experiences and advice. Thank you
P.s: i am not in the UK but this is the most active pajevo forum i could find so i hope to gain knowledge from owners that have lived with pajevo’s as well as share my own experiences

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[stivi]

Bump ! Seems like this forum is not very active anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated

[Vinson158]

Hello!  It would be good to conduct a comprehensive system check.  The car is quite old.  Judging by the mileage, the car was not used for a long time - this is good and bad at the same time.  In particular, it is bad for rubber components inside the engine.
Catalog oil:
Engine - approximately 4.9 liters total volume (of which 0.3 filter and 0.3 cooling radiator).  Naturally, 4.9 is a lot, feel free to pour 4-4.3 liters and then look at the level.
Viscosity SAE 5W-30, 10W-30 (hereinafter selected according to climatic characteristics and operating mode).  Choose your own brand of oil.

Automatic - 9.3 liters indicated.  ATF SPll.  But we all use SPlll or its analogues.
Digression - I have all manual transmission cars, so I didn’t get into this issue seriously, but what I know - SP3 is based on Dextron 3 oil, plus some five requirements of the Japanese oil association.  What are these points?  - I do not know.  At the same time, GM no longer uses Dextron 3 and ceased to issue certificates for its production.  Now there is Dextron 6. And GM recommends using Dextron 6 even in older automatic transmissions, where Dextron 3 was originally recommended.
It is possible that you can use a higher grade oil.  Consult a specialist.

Transfer box - 2.5 liters
SAE 75/85 (GL4).  Pay attention GL4 !!!

Front diff - 1.2 liters
Rear diff - approximately 1.7 liters
SAE 90, SAE80 (GL5)

The hydraulic steering system - 0.97 liters
ATF SP3

Brake system like DOT3.

Spark plugs on the brand NGK sevens, PFR7M.  According to the Denso brand, these are the twenty second candles, VK22, IK22.
Denso spark plugs are very sensitive to tightening torque.  If you pull it, the insulation may be damaged.

In the Japanese, original manual, candles with a glow number of 6 according to NGK are also indicated, according to Denso these are 20 spark plugs (VK20, IK20)
Denso VK22 performed well in Russian frosts.
I personally use the original MS851347 candles (NGK PFR7M) and have no problems.
Pay attention to the presence of oil on the spark plugs.  And smudges around the valve covers.  Valve cap gasket number (gasket, rocker cover) MD352601 2pcs
Seal, cylinder head spar plug MD198128 6pcs

The timing belt is a sore subject on these engines.  I advise you to treat the replacement with all severity.
Crankshaft gear MD184894, buy new.
crankshaft sensor plate (three blade plate) MD184901, buy a new one.
behind this plate there is a washer that has drunk a lot of blood.  In the original MD309036, it is fragile and often falls apart.  We are afraid of her and therefore we use an old-style washer (steel) from MMC GTO, number MD184291
The crankshaft pulley bolt you need to buy a new (center bolt) 1100A141.  The old model is bad.
Central bolt washer, buy a new one.  I won’t tell you the number.
Dowel (key, cranksh) MD008959, buy a new one.
Tighten the central bolt with the correct tightening torque.
Pay attention to the pulley itself.  He strongly backlash or not.
The belt tensioner is what you buy, most likely a new sample, made of aluminum.  There are several pieces of replacement numbers from the manufacturer, apparently they recognized the problem.  There were a lot of cases when they failed, the belt tension was weakened and the timing belt jumped.  We remake them into a mechanical one, but not everyone does it.  Or use the tensioner Hyundai 24410-39001.

Pay attention to the intake manifold geometry change system.  The drive often breaks down.

I do not advise rushing headlong without making sure that the timing belt has been replaced.  If it is old, then for a long time it was in one position, and in this position it dried up.  It can break at any time.  The consequences will be dire.

Check brake system.  Change fluid, bleed system.

Some data.
Ignition ON
Engine warmed up 80 ~ 90’C.
Idling speed 700 + -50 r / min
Neutral gear or P mode for automatic transmission.
All consumers are off (lights, and other accessories):
Injection time 2.0 ~ 3.2ms
Collector Vacuum 20 ~ 33kPa
Correctly working motor should have such indicators.
That's all for now.

I am not an expert in cars.  I am an ordinary car owner.
If anyone thinks otherwise, can supplement the information, or correct me, then please.
I'm not going to enter into a polemic with anyone.
I don’t know English.  Therefore, I apologize for the translation.

[stivi]

Thank you for the reply Vinson158

You have given me far more information then I thought I would get.

As far as rubber materials getting hard I hope that is not the case as from the export certificate that is mandatory from Japan where mileage is recorded the vehicle was at 31700 km in 2016 and then 41600 km in 2018 for the last two inspections. This indicates that the vehicle was used although probably not everyday.

I see you are in Russia and there seems to be a couple of pajevo's over there with relatively good supply of replacement parts. Please let me know how you get on with finding replacement parts.

Thank you again for the help. Much appreciated .

[Vinson158]

The main fleet of the region is JDM cars.  Pajerevo’s, we have a lot in the West  I think Evos two hundred typed in the country, the bulk in the regions of the Far East.  Naturally, a lot of cars are brought to spare parts.  
For parts: some parts we buy new.  we take some at a car showdown, it depends on what you need.  Does it make sense to repair a damaged unit.  We repair the suspension: suspension arms.  Shock absorbers are remodeled from shock absorbers, which are designed for other models and brands.  There is a problem with engines.  Repairing them is very expensive.  Some parts are discontinued, for example, cylinder head gaskets.  Recently, many have moved away from the MMC engine and put the Toyota engine.  All these engine replacements are in one way or another connected with the problems of the native engine.  Body parts are very expensive and rare.  We usually buy them at auto showdowns, but sometimes it takes a long time to look and wait.  Recently, in one of the regions, one private workshop made casts of body parts and already offers finished products from fiberglass.  I think the day is not far off when we have to turn to them.  Every year, with these spare parts is becoming more and more difficult.  All this information is on the Internet.  This forum has photos and descriptions of repaired levers.  There is a site, DRIVE2.Ru, there is a lot of information.  This forum has some questions.

[stivi]

I have indeed stumbled upon the drive2 forums but they are in russian and cannot understand much. Havent looked into translating much but that how i realized russia had many pajevos.
I hope that my vehicle is in relative good shape mechanically which would avoid me looking for parts that are getting impossible to find.
Although i do find it bizarre that these parts are not being produced in japan as they were all sold there and alot of people still love and drive these vehicles.
I would like to know if by any chance you know where to find the engine number on the pajevo. I need this to get the import process started on my side before the vehicle arrives but my seller in japan cant seem to find it and going to contact mitsubishi which i dont know how long that will take. If you do know please share.

[Vinson158]

[stivi]

Thank you Vinson is this visible with the engine in the car ? Seems like its pretty far down . Is there not a plaque somewhere that is more accesible ? I will send this to the seller and hope he can find it .

[Vinson158]

No, this is the only dream where the engine number is indicated on the engine itself.

[stivi]

Ok well i guess he will have to get the information from mitsubishi since i doubt pulling the engine is an option !

[Vinson158]

No need to pull anything.  there are special devices.  Inspectors always turn their necks to check these numbers.  And on 6g74 the engine number is still not in the most bad place.  JZ engines are much worse.  And if it is dirty and, accordingly, the inspector cannot read it, then it sends you to clear the number.
How in other countries?  - I do not know.

I brought photos of the dismantled engine for clarity.  They pulled it out just for full service.

[stivi]

Yes i know . I haven’t received the vehicle yet it is still with the seller. I think they do not have much experience with this and are struggling. They dont need it to export whereas i need it to import. The vehicle should have been shipped already but has been delayed due to this issue.

[stivi]

Hey Vinson,

They were able to find the engine serial number thx to the pictures you provided and a diagram i found online. Wanted to thank you for all your help. Vehicle is scheduled to be shipped at the end of june and i should receive it end of july. Will definitely be contacting you for more information when i receive it !!!

[stivi]

Hey Vinson

I finally received the vehicle and everything was as clean as advertised. However the car would not start at the port with dead battery. We changed the battery and the battery light stayed on which led us to believe alternator was not working. We later found that the 100A fuse for alternator in the engine compartment had burned and we replace it but still alternator not working. We then had the alternator refurbished and it started working fine when sudden 100A fused blew again and alternator fried again. I should also note driver side window motor was also burned we fixed it but once again it burned with alternator and fuse. We believe there is some sort of electrical short do you have any experience with this ? any help would be appreciated. Thank you

[Vinson158]

Hi Stivi!  Congratulations!  
Personally, I have not encountered such a problem, and if I did, I would give it to an auto electrician for repair. -  I am not good at electrical wisdom.
If there are no questions to the generator, then look at the wiring going to and from it.  (under the motor, under the fuse box).  Somewhere the power wire is shorting to ground.  And check the generator again, it may have been damaged by your unsuccessful attempts.
The windshield wiper motor problem can be anywhere, both outside the problem with the generator and related to it.
I hope you described the situation in another thread.  Pajero Evo does not differ much in wiring from other Pajero / Montero and the sores are of the same type and someone will tell you the right solution.