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The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ
The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
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Mordue22
Newbie
Age: 39
Zodiac: 
Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 4
Location: Northumberland
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 Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:53 Post subject: |
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Thanks for reply, might try the same as you with the copper pipe idea! Thinking might also change the plugs too, can't see from looking what volt they are so going to get some 6v's to make sure! How many cables do you have to your busbar? As I've two separate cables which are tightened onto same plug!
Also tried something new last night as I thourght one cable might be an earth!
I attached what I think is the live to the busbar and what I think is the earth to the - on battery and guess what! I got the correct ten second delay between relay clicks BUT tried a second time and only 1 click
So I fiddled on abit more and found that if I connected the wire back to battery - till first click of relay then disconnected,
I would get the desired ten ish second delay then second (off) click would come!
I don't know how or why, like I say am just a novice in learning! |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:53 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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Mark3
LifeTime Member
Age: 61
Zodiac: 
Joined: 13 Feb 2009
Posts: 4016
Location: Rainham Village, Essex.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:53 Post subject: |
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| The 2.8 single relay heater plug system pre heats for about 10 seconds, the 2.5 only for 2 seconds or so. if the 2.5 system heated for longer being your storing 12volt into 6volt heater plugs they would prolly not last longer than a week |
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Mark3
LifeTime Member
Age: 61
Zodiac:
Joined: 13 Feb 2009
Posts: 4016
Location: Rainham Village, Essex.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:19 Post subject: |
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| Mark3 wrote: |
| The 2.8 single relay heater plug system pre heats for about 10 seconds, the 2.5 only for 2 seconds or so. if the 2.5 system heated for longer being your storing 12volt into 6volt heater plugs they would prolly not last longer than a week |
Meant to say pumping, not storing, dam phones, lol, and;
| HandyDan wrote: |
| Mordue22 wrote: |
Hi again and thanks for all the replays! Just an update on what I've done today, not much tho as am on night shift, I've noticed today while looking at plugs that the wires to bus bar are connected to the first plug ( nearest to you when looking at them) and sure I've read somewhere that they should be on the third or second from the back which ever way you look at it, anyway it resulted in 1 second longer delay between clicks, as my original post said I was getting nothing between clicks before hand and now I get 1 second, still not efficient I know but every little helps!
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Interesting , I think you are getting there . As the wire was on the first plug and the temp sensor monitors it , and you moved the wire to the second plug and extended the time the relay energised sounds like only the 1st plug was gettin juice . |
The temp sensor is a coolant temp sensor & is there to monitor engine coolant temperature, it sends a signal to the heater plug control unit and from this it determins whether the heater plugs should be used and if so for how long once the engine has warmed, its nothing to do with the heater plug temperatures at all.
Also dont be connecting any of the two main cables to the heater plug bus bar to earth, there both power supplies, one from each of the two relays, your gonna melt something if you continue to do this.
There is a resistor pack there to reduce the supply voltage to 6 volt to the right hand relay for post start supply to the heater plug bus bar.
Basicly if you got starting problems and there is a live to the bus bar when the relay/s are powered stick in the correct new plugs and be done with it!
2.8s pre heat for 10 seconds, light going out after about 3 or 4 seconds, then they heat for a further 3 mins once running
2.5s pre heat for 2 seconds, no light fitted, then they continue to heat sometimes via the relay pulsing once running
if you fit a manual button to power the pre heat relay on a 2.5 make sure you only press it for 2 seconds or the plugs will burn out real fast as they 6 volt plugs getting 12 volts supply, hense the pre heat, if working, is only 2 seconds! |
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HandyDan
LifeTime Member
Age: 66
Zodiac: 
Joined: 18 Oct 2006
Posts: 855
Location: Sussex
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| Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:55 Post subject: |
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At least your phone didnt correct it to something naughty 
As Mark said DONT go playing with the wires , unless you want an insurance payout  Yes there should be 2 wires connected to the busbar.
On the 2.5's ( well mine both quick start) there is a seperate temp sensor ( not the same as engine coolant ) which runs the glow system , situated just below the first plug next to fuel pump. If I turn on the ignition wait for the 2 clicks ( 3-4 secs), turn off , then back on straight away, the next 2 clicks are straight after each other ( no delay ) because the sensor still detects the initial heating .( car hasnt even started so coolant temp has not changed) |
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maxim007
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Age: 37
Zodiac: 
Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 58
Location: Bistrita, Romania
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:05 Post subject: |
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hello to all...
I have the same problem on my 2.5...(i mean the short click in the morning, and without heating the glows.)
no I have fitted an "optional" push-button to pre-heat the glow plugs...
I read here a lot of threads that it can be a faulty Temp Sensor which...(and needs to be exchanged with a new one)
Or a bad connections on the BUSBAR.(and needs to be cleaned)
So can someone show me a pics with the busbad (to identify it) and with that temp sensor from the engine which control the heating systems, and needs to be exchanged...
Thanks in advance.... |
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ian lunn
****
Age: 66
Zodiac: 
Joined: 05 Dec 2010
Posts: 487
Location: worksop Notts
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 22:59 Post subject: |
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| HandyDan wrote: |
| Taraswolf wrote: |
the 2.5 motor usually has 2 relays/solernoids between the batteries and uses 6.2v glow plugs, sounds like the plugs have been replaced with cheapy plugs at some time and the glowplug ecu doesnt like the plugs so just cliks on/off within a few secs, had the same problem with mine, you have a choice of fitting a decent set of plugs so the ecu will work properly and give the plugs a good few secs to heat up or fit a manual by-pass switch.
The hand throttle isnt a choke btw it just raises the tickover does the same as putting your foot on the throttle.
If you have a diesel leak you need to get that sorted asap as it can cause engine running issues including bad starting, if fuel is leaking out air can get into the system.
Happy new truck btw  |
The ECU is not connected to the plugs and as such dosnt care what they are . The Relay is connected to the ECU . ( Relays by definition are to cause a re-action in a different circuit without an electrical connection by physical means ) If the relay is clicking really quicky then it could be a faulty ECU or a fault with the temp sensor for the ECU. ( not same sensor as temp gauge )
Basic diagram here
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac73/HandyDan/Glow.gif |
I have 2.5 super quick glow with connections directly back to ECU from plugs but cannot find out how to extract the circuit from manual to place link like the one Handydan has in his reply but if you look on section 16 page 23 (super quick glow system) in the manual it shows second set of wires with arrows (signal from ECU to plugs and return back to ECU). it is my understanding that the resitance is checked by this circuit which is one of the reasons why cheap (non genuine) plugs don;t work |
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Mark3
LifeTime Member
Age: 61
Zodiac:
Joined: 13 Feb 2009
Posts: 4016
Location: Rainham Village, Essex.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 11:56 Post subject: |
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| I got cheap non genuine plugs in my 2.8 and they work just fine, and i think you will find your ecu isnt connected directly to the heater plugs, there is no way on earth the relays in the heater plug control unit could deal with the 70 odd amps that the heater plugs draw UNLESS you have a different control unit to the rest of the world thats big enough to have the two heater plug relays built in. |
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ian lunn
****
Age: 66
Zodiac:
Joined: 05 Dec 2010
Posts: 487
Location: worksop Notts
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| Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 15:08 Post subject: |
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hi all
Managed to get glow wiring in format I can link to green are signal wire (not power) and orange power (load carrying.
hope this helps.
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Nodge68
*
Age: 55
Zodiac: 
Joined: 30 Nov 2011
Posts: 25
Location: Newquay
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| Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:33 Post subject: |
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| My 2.5 has always had a sluggish start from cold so I fitted a manual push button simply energizing the relay. I get the relay clicking once started for 30 seconds or so. What I don't understand though is why the resisted glow supply draws more current out than my push button? Surely if i'm stuffing 12V into 6V plugs then that would pull the highest current? Is it possible the relay wiring is reversed causing 12V into the plugs after the start but 6V pre-heat? Where is the resistor fitted ? |
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Selkent1
*****
Age: 49
Zodiac:
Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 539
Location: Kent
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| Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:19 Post subject: |
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Hi all,
I have a manual system fitted to my 2.5, and once i have overhauled the starting system during my hols, new plugs, bar etc. I will want to convert it back to an auto system, but am unsure as to what should be connected to where. There are two small wires sitting loose above my two relays, one with a black connector attached and the other simply cut off. I presume these are to be connected to the relays. Will get pics posted asap. Anyone got any pics of how the relays should look when wired up correctly?
Phil |
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SouthpawTiger
Newbie
Age: 35
Zodiac:
Joined: 18 Dec 2020
Posts: 4
Location: Vancouver, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2021 1:59 Post subject: |
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| Selkent1 wrote: |
Hi all,
I have a manual system fitted to my 2.5, and once i have overhauled the starting system during my hols, new plugs, bar etc. I will want to convert it back to an auto system, but am unsure as to what should be connected to where. There are two small wires sitting loose above my two relays, one with a black connector attached and the other simply cut off. I presume these are to be connected to the relays. Will get pics posted asap. Anyone got any pics of how the relays should look when wired up correctly?
Phil |
I have the same thing on my 2.5. Did you ever figure it out? The manual button that came on my Paj needs to be held down for about 10 seconds, and the plugs haven't blown out yet. Or at least I think they haven't.... The PO installed this system and he said it should be held for about 10 seconds, no problems so far. helps the Paj start in the cold. All I have to do now is rebuild the injector pump with the gaskets I just got so that she doesn't sputter for a few seconds on startup. |
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