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2003 Shogun stuck in Neutral on the A1


 
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fj1200
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Age: 61
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Location: Peterborough, UK

PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 10:59    Post subject: 2003 Shogun stuck in Neutral on the A1 Reply with quote

Just had a call from my wife on the A1 - the Shogun dash started flashing the neutral light and they've lost all drive - she's pulled over but there's no drive and it seems stuck in neutral.  Any ideas?  
She's called the AA and is out of the car on the verge with my son, but just worried for her safety and the potential cost of a repair.
It's a 2003 LWB 3.2 Diesel
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fj1200
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Age: 61
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Location: Peterborough, UK

PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 11:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

So my son says it's due to the ECU detecting an error and putting the gearbox into safety mode - looks like it's blown a seal, he says there's a pool of oil under the engine.  more expense.  Sad
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fj1200
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Age: 61
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 13:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

So just got it home and on the drive.  Thanks to everyone who's replied on my wife's post on the FB Shogun group.  Its something near the front of the car, so front plastic off and have a look, the car is covered in oil - even the spare on the door so needs a bit of a wash.  If it's a cooler pipe I assume they're not too hard to swap out - haven't looked yet.
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assassin
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2021 2:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Normally you can identify the oil from its colour, take a piece of white kitchen roll and dip it into the oil.

If its red its ATF and gearbox, if its black its engine oil.

If its ATF it is most likelt an oil cooler pipe and these are of two types, the solid steel pipes which run from the gearbox to the ATF cooler which have rubber connecting pipes.

Spray degreaser onto the entire area and wash off with water, dry the area and fill with ATF, start the engine with the bottom covers removed and any leaks will become evident, also be aware that the steel pipes corrode and where the rubber pipes connect to them the force of the clips is sufficient to crush the ATF steel pipes under the rubber pipes and show as a leaking joint. Also be aware that people shorten steel cooler pipes back and refit rubber pipes to them and where it passes from the front of the vehicle through the front crossmember it is tight and sharp and this chafes the rubber hose and this shows first as a leak, then a split in the pipe and this type of shortening back isn't uncommon.
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assassin
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Age: 64
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2021 2:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is the steel pipes they are available, but which ones? they are basically straight pipes from the gearbox alongside the engine, they run into two rubber connecting pipes and to the front steel shaped pipes and to the front of the crossmember, these connect to two rubber connecting pipes which run to more steel pipes which run to the ATF cooler.

Usually it is the front shaped pipes which connect to the straight gearbox pipes, or the steel ATF connecting pipes.

If it is the shaped pipes which run under the radiator and to the front of the crossmember then proceed as follows: drain and remove the radiator by undoing the slam palel bolts, radiator hoses, then lift out, you will see the mounting brackets, one behind the radiator and one in front of the crossmember on the offside, this releases them and they can be wiggled out. Paint the new pipes with good insustrial paint, at least a couple of coats, tap the bolt holes out on the mounting brackets, fit the new pipes loosely in position with the ends covered with masking tape or similar to stop dirt entering the pipes, remove one bolt and smear with copper grease, refit and tighten, repeat for the other mounting bracket. Fit the rubber connecting hoses and radiator tempararily and run the engine and check the ATF level, top up with the correct ATF and check for leaks. Refit the radiator permanently and fill up with coolant if there are no leaks, get some underbody wax (i prefer Bilt Hamber Dynax UB) and spray the pipes (steel and rubber) to help stop further corrosion.
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fj1200
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Age: 61
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2021 13:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like the gearbox.  Engine oil level looks good.  Oil on the floor has a redish tint to it.
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fj1200
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Age: 61
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2021 13:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the gearbox.  Engine oil level looks good.  I have an old board underneath the engine, the oil has a reddish tint to it.
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bigalan
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2021 18:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be sure you get the correct ATF fluid and follow assassin’s procedure, I have some left over from my fluid change, more than enough for a refill, well at least I did a few weeks ago as i left it at my brothers, in Oxford if you want it cheap.
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assassin
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2021 17:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now you remove all the old undertrays so you can see the leak, get a light underneath also.

Fill the gearbox with ATF roughly until it is at the top mark cold, get a clean container and go underneath and get a second person to be prepared to start and stop the engine.

Get them to start the engine and let it idle DO NOT LET THEM REV THE ENGINE this will prime the ATF system and you should see the leak, catch as much of the new ATF as you can which leaks out and as soon as you identify the leak SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN AND SWITCH EVERYTHING OFF and you can examine the leaking area and identify if it is a metal pipe or a rubber connecting pipe which you can replace or repair.

Put your captured ATF into a clean container by filtering it through something like a pair of the wife's/girlfriends stockings placed over the top of a clean funnel, or a coffee filter placed inside the funnel and your new filtered ATF can be used again.

Repair the leak and fill your system up with ATF cold, then warm the ATF by running the vehicle until the ATF is at working temperature and follow the procedure for checking the level correctly and top up to the top mark.

Run this for about  month and replace the ATF for new.
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fj1200
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Age: 61
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Location: Peterborough, UK

PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2021 17:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Assassin.  I'll give it a go - any recommendations on ATF brands or all much the same?   May not be this week - too much else to do.
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bigalan
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2021 18:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

You HAVE to get the correct one, I purchased a large barrel of it and it was cheaper than individual 1L containers, I have enough left over to fill a gearbox if you want it cheap.

What you need is

Millermatic ATF SP III WS -

Which is what I have.
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assassin
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Age: 64
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 3:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Bigalan, the Millermatic SP III WS
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