View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Alex4x4 Newbie
Joined: 29 Jul 2021 Posts: 5 Location: Oslo
|
Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2021 15:22 Post subject: Engine coolant drain clogged |
|
|
Hei Pajero owners
I am having some issues with the cooling system and hope you have some tipps for me. I just replaced the radiator of my 2001 3,2 DiD (4m41) to stop an oil leak at the AT hose. Then I screwed off the plug close to the oil filter. This is supposed to drain the coolant from the engine block. But no fluid came out. The screw looks dry with some corrosion. When I look into the drain hole I see a solid white mineralized mass. I was able to scrape some of it off, but it seems to go deep.
The car is operated in Norway and had red coolant before. I own the car for a couple of months. I am not sure what previous owners did or did not here. Is that just old dried coolant? So far I did not notice any problem with the cooling. I also took the thermostat out while testing some radiator flush chemical assuming this will result in a higher flow rate.
I have the fear that the blockage is not limited to the drain hole but also appears in other locations.
This raises some questions:
1. Is it safe to drive like this? Will I notice if parts of the motor does not get proper cooling? I haven't done any trip longer than 2 hours so far.
2. How else can I drain the coolant from the block? The radiator only took 5 liters. That means in the engine are about 5 more liters "stuck".
3. How can I dissolve this white crystalized mass? Any chemicals or tool I should try?
Thanks! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Google Sponsor
|
Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2021 15:22 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
icehawk LifeTime Member
Age: 62 Zodiac: Joined: 09 Apr 2006 Posts: 2550 Location: walsall west.mids
|
Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2021 16:35 Post subject: |
|
|
usually just needs a piece of stiff wire in the hole to start coolant flowing |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Alex4x4 Newbie
Joined: 29 Jul 2021 Posts: 5 Location: Oslo
|
Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2021 17:08 Post subject: |
|
|
icehawk wrote: |
usually just needs a piece of stiff wire in the hole to start coolant flowing |
Okay, I'll try again with more patience. And then just use more radiator flush to get the remains out? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
icehawk LifeTime Member
Age: 62 Zodiac: Joined: 09 Apr 2006 Posts: 2550 Location: walsall west.mids
|
Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2021 19:24 Post subject: |
|
|
a metal coat hanger cut and straightened makes a good tool to use,they usually clog up because most people have never drained the block. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Alex4x4 Newbie
Joined: 29 Jul 2021 Posts: 5 Location: Oslo
|
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 8:42 Post subject: |
|
|
Icehawk: Thanks. It really was just about 2-3 cm deep. What a relief.
For me a flat skrewdriver did the trick. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
assassin ********
Age: 64 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: Wherever I Wander To -- Midlands
|
Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2021 4:08 Post subject: |
|
|
I would clean the hole out as above, once coolant is flowing from the engine block I would clean it out with a good engine coolant system cleaner and follow the instructions for use.
This will remove most of the loose and smaller debris and it needs the radiator bottom hose removing to let the water out as the particles dislodged may block the drain tap, fill the coolant system with clean water and run as this removes any remaining debris.
Remove the block drain bung and check the hole is clear, if you have, or have access to a borescope then insert it into the engine block through the hole and check for remaining contamination, if you have an old bike brake cable you can cut 18" (450mm) off and put it into a cordless drill, bush the other end up so you can just fit it through the drain hole and rotate slowly and build up speed as this will smash any remaining debris and help dislodge it, move the cable around the inside of the engine block as best you can to break more upand flush it out with water or a jet wash if you have one.
If it is particularly bad you can do the following, don't laugh, drain the cooling system and remove the drain plug and let it dry out, fill the system with coca cola until full and DO NOT FIT THE RADIATOR CAP, run the engine until it is hot and allow it to cool down and leave for a few hours, coca cola contains both citric and phosphoric acid which cleans the engine block, citric acid is a natural metal cleaner and phosphoric acid is used for rust convertor treatments and it works a treat, you may have to leave it overnight to work fully, the beauty is you can drain it into a bucket and pour it through a filter and use it again if required.
Flush the system fully with water to remove all traces of the coca cola and it should be nice and bright and ready for its water and long life anti freeze. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Drkhan743 Newbie
Age: 60 Zodiac: Joined: 11 Sep 2021 Posts: 1 Location: High Wycombe
|
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2021 10:33 Post subject: How to COMPLETELY empty cooling system. |
|
|
Hello.
I have just joined this club as I bought a 2004 Shigun 3.2 DiD LWB. I am preparing it for camping/overlanding. After doing underbody seal, I decided to change all fluids. Brake and power steering fluids were OK.
With coolant it looks something wrong. I ordered Genuine Mitsubishi coolant and used speed flush. System looks clean as not much bad stuff came out. After flush and rinse I emtptied the system and filled it with Antifreeze. PROBLEM. Only 4 litre went in and it is full. Kept engine running for 15 minutes with heating on high. Another 100 mls in and it is full. Drove about 30 minutes and checked again. System is FULL. Obviously there is some error as system capacity is almost 10 litre.
How to fully darina nd fill the system?
Thanks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
assassin ********
Age: 64 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: Wherever I Wander To -- Midlands
|
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2022 4:53 Post subject: |
|
|
There is no error and you need to understand the system has a lot of voids and LWB models have a second rear heater and you only drain the front section when you do this and to drain the rear section you have two rubber pipes beside the n/s rear wheel and removing ont of them will remove a lot more coolant, and you can use one of the pipes to flush the rar heater with a hosepipe. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|