The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

Ollywilko247 · Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2023 15:29 Post subject: Strange electrical issues

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and this is my first post. I bought my shogun about 6 months ago and have absolutely loved it. I've also got a 2018 L200 but prefer the shogun by miles. It's a 57 plate v98 LWB elegance auto.

This morning it started playing up. I was happily driving to work and lost acceleration. I came to a stop and it stalled..... I restarted it and it fired up straight away again and drove a further 20 miles no issue. While driving I notice the ABS light and traction control lights are now lit as well as the battery light. Also the interior lights, radio, top display and central locking no longer work.

I pulled the multi meter out when I got to work and the battery is showing 12.6v idle and 11.9v when running. I've not unburied the alternator yet but it looks brand new. Never seen one as clean. Suggesting it had been replaced shortly before me buying it. Both belts are attached and turning when running. Guessing it's a loose connection on the alternator or the alternator itself has failed for some reason.

Interior wise again guessing the fuse link had blown. All the interior fuses look fine but I've not metered the box yet to see if it's receiving power.

Has anyone had anything like this happen on their shogun? Just seemed odd how it was instant and now warning.

If anyone has any suggestions please don't hesitate to let me know. Anything helps.

Thanks,

Olly

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Ollywilko247 · Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2023 7:55 Post subject: Problem resolved ish

So last night I stripped the air box out and got down to the alternator. The alternator is generating 13.2v. Went from battery to alternator and no power. I started checking through the fuse box in the engine bay and found no power through the 140amp fuse for the alternator (fuse 1). The fuse looked fine visually. I took the fuse cover off and found it had blown. I'm unsure why as yet. I'm struggling to find a replacement fuse online. I've made a temporary fuse and everything is back up and running.

Now starts the investigation to why the fuse had blown.

Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.

assassin · Posted: Tue May 02, 2023 2:50 Post subject:

They break where the fuse element contacts the mounting as they are pulse welded and this fuse is connected to the battery and you can get them form Milners, always check them with a meter as you cannot always see it has blown.

Ollywilko247 · Posted: Sat May 06, 2023 23:23 Post subject:

The problem continues 😡 changed the fuse. Fine for a week. The same has happened again. The replacement fuse has blown. I've had a good look around and can't find any damaged cables. Does anyone have any suggestions?

iam_TJ · Posted: Sun May 07, 2023 14:49 Post subject:

I'd suggest applying logic to narrow down the possible causes.

Blowing a 140 amp fuse takes some doing, so consider where it is in the circuit. Something 'upstream' of the fuse wouldn't cause this, so it is something 'after' the fuse.

If this is in the charging circuit from Alternator to battery then 'after' would be the battery side (unless current flowed uncontrolled back from the battery to the alternator - that is possible if no diodes in the circuit) . So two immediate possibilities occur:

1. faulty battery
2. (if no diode) fault in or around the Alternator.
3. short-circuit on the connections under the fuse-box.

For (1) a battery test and possibly swap with another battery are possible diagnostic steps. If the issue continues that might point to the problem being at the Alternator end. Checking (3) is a relativity simple no-cost step.

Ollywilko247 · Posted: Mon May 08, 2023 17:34 Post subject:

Thanks for the replies,

I think I figured out the issue although I cant find any loom location diagrams online.

I delved right into it today, took the air box out and the battery and cradle. Took the gearbox guard off and found a 20 - 25mm2 cable absolutely destroyed from rubbing on the propshaft. Also 4 smaller cables which were broken.

I had to pull the cable from around the gearbox and replace the damaged cables. The larger cable looked like it had been nearly on fire so extremely lucky.

I didn't trace it all the way back but I'm guessing it is the alternator to battery cable. I haven't been able to figure out what the other four cables were for. Does anyone know? They were black, red, yellow and white.

Thanks again.

iam_TJ · Posted: Mon May 08, 2023 17:39 Post subject:

I'd suggest looking at the various diagrams on megazip.net for your model (get the exact model code e.g. "lyhzr6" from the vehicle plate - it'd help us follow along if you can report that here, too).

Do you have the workshop manuals or Haynes manual?

emmaagro · Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2023 12:30 Post subject: Strange electrical issues

Type 3 circuit breakers are manual reset-able, and require that a button or lever be pushed in order to reset the breaker. We carry thermal circuit breakers from the leaders in the transportation market.Where is RCCB used?
RCCB is generally used in series with an MCB which protects them from over current and short circuit current. Both phase and neutral wires are connected through a RCCB device. These are an extremely effective form of shock protection&widely used for protection from a leakage current of 30,100 & 300 In case of a fault, the current from the neutral wire is reduced, the differential between the two known as Residual Current. On spotting a Residual Current, the RCCB is triggered to trip off the circuit.