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Soft brake pedal after changing front brake callipers


 
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andyfinch
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Age: 54
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Location: Powys, Walss

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2024 21:35    Post subject: Soft brake pedal after changing front brake callipers Reply with quote

Hi,

I have a project Shoogun 1998 v6 3.0. I have changed the majority of the front suspension, bearings, rotors/discs, callipers and brake pads. There is no ABS. I bled the brakes pumping the brake pedal until no bubbles present from bleed screw. There are no leaks at the calliper pipes or hoses.

Is there a special process for bleeding the brakes I am missing? Also can the callipers cause a soft pedal with no leak? I wondered if it could be a problem with the master cylinder but the brakes did work prior to changing out the callipers so would be a bit of a coincidence. Is there an easy way to test the master cylinder?

Any advice really appreciated.

Thank you
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assassin
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 19:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes as they have a HBB or hydraulic brake pooster unit which needs bleeding first.

Fill your brake fluid reservoir up first and pump your brake pedal until it goes hard.

Open the drivers window and turn on your ignition, you should hear the HBB motor fire up and boost the brake pressure in the accumulator which is the round thing fed by a brake pipe, usually red, which runs from the motor/pump unit under and to the rear of the HBB unit.

Locate this pipe at the accumulator which is accessible from the front of the unit, when the pump switches off you undo the accumulator nut until it blows the air out and the acccumulator is filled with pressurised fluid, tighten it back up.

If your unit has two pipes on the side and two on the front you bleed these out and begin with the side upper brake pipe which is nearest to the bulkhead, loosen this carefully and let all the air out, you may need to tighten it and turn the ignition on to repressurise it.

Bleed the second side lower pipe and remove the air.  

Go to the front and bleed the front highest pipe and then the front lowest pipe and the HBB unit is bled.

Go to the rear nearside wheel and bleed this until all the old fluid is bled out and replaced by clean, air free fluid.
Repeat this on the rear offsideand your rear blakes are bled.

Do the front nearside first followed by the front offside and you have bled the entire system and refilled with clean, new fluid.
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andyfinch
Newbie
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Age: 54
Zodiac: Pisces
Joined: 30 Dec 2023
Posts: 8
Location: Powys, Walss

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 21:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

assassin wrote:
Yes as they have a HBB or hydraulic brake pooster unit which needs bleeding first.

Fill your brake fluid reservoir up first and pump your brake pedal until it goes hard.

Open the drivers window and turn on your ignition, you should hear the HBB motor fire up and boost the brake pressure in the accumulator which is the round thing fed by a brake pipe, usually red, which runs from the motor/pump unit under and to the rear of the HBB unit.

Locate this pipe at the accumulator which is accessible from the front of the unit, when the pump switches off you undo the accumulator nut until it blows the air out and the acccumulator is filled with pressurised fluid, tighten it back up.

If your unit has two pipes on the side and two on the front you bleed these out and begin with the side upper brake pipe which is nearest to the bulkhead, loosen this carefully and let all the air out, you may need to tighten it and turn the ignition on to repressurise it.

Bleed the second side lower pipe and remove the air.  

Go to the front and bleed the front highest pipe and then the front lowest pipe and the HBB unit is bled.

Go to the rear nearside wheel and bleed this until all the old fluid is bled out and replaced by clean, air free fluid.
Repeat this on the rear offsideand your rear blakes are bled.

Do the front nearside first followed by the front offside and you have bled the entire system and refilled with clean, new fluid.


Hi. Thanks so much for the reply, much appreciated. Could I just check this is still applicable when there is no ABS as when I look at the parts diagram for my vehicle I can't see a HBB motor?
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andyfinch
Newbie
Newbie


Age: 54
Zodiac: Pisces
Joined: 30 Dec 2023
Posts: 8
Location: Powys, Walss

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 21:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

assassin wrote:
Yes as they have a HBB or hydraulic brake pooster unit which needs bleeding first.

Fill your brake fluid reservoir up first and pump your brake pedal until it goes hard.

Open the drivers window and turn on your ignition, you should hear the HBB motor fire up and boost the brake pressure in the accumulator which is the round thing fed by a brake pipe, usually red, which runs from the motor/pump unit under and to the rear of the HBB unit.

Locate this pipe at the accumulator which is accessible from the front of the unit, when the pump switches off you undo the accumulator nut until it blows the air out and the acccumulator is filled with pressurised fluid, tighten it back up.

If your unit has two pipes on the side and two on the front you bleed these out and begin with the side upper brake pipe which is nearest to the bulkhead, loosen this carefully and let all the air out, you may need to tighten it and turn the ignition on to repressurise it.

Bleed the second side lower pipe and remove the air.  

Go to the front and bleed the front highest pipe and then the front lowest pipe and the HBB unit is bled.

Go to the rear nearside wheel and bleed this until all the old fluid is bled out and replaced by clean, air free fluid.
Repeat this on the rear offsideand your rear blakes are bled.

Do the front nearside first followed by the front offside and you have bled the entire system and refilled with clean, new fluid.



Hi. Thanks so much for the reply, much appreciated. Could I just check this is still applicable when there is no ABS as when I look at the parts diagram for my vehicle I can't see a HBB motor?
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