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The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
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SteveN *****
Joined: 10 Oct 2002 Posts: 571
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2002 10:51 Post subject: HeadLight Washer Pump problems / fix |
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As this is a current topic I've recovered this from the old forum.
" Squirty squirt
(MK1) Headlamp washers r not working. The relay activates but no
H2O. Has any1 else had / rectified this problem? - Ive checked all
the fuses I can find and all seem ok - being labeled in Jap doesnt
help. Any help appreciated!
SteveT
marcsparks2002
its a common problem one that has been into many times b4 if you
look on the pocuk homepage then look on faq section theres a section
detailing fuse locattion in english with regard to the pump its most
likely seized and they cost a small fortune to replace from mits atb
marc
SteveT
Thanx Marc - but the fuse diagram in faq is 4 Mk2 mine is Mk1 - also
noticed that there isnt a fuse 4 the headlamp washer listed! - Is
the pump unit servicable?
marcsparks2002
there is a member who stripped theres down but i cant remember who
hopefully they will see the post and reply sorry i cant be a bit
more precise atb marc
PoCUK Administrator
Mk1 fuse diagrams...
They're in the owners handbook for the Mk1.
Simon.
Andy(NorthWales)
quote:
Originally posted by PoCUK
They're in the owners handbook for the Mk1.
Simon.
Now there a subtle hint, why not get hold of the manual from Simon
POCUK.
They are of VERY good quality and Haynes being Haynes they are easy
to follow.
Andy...
SteveN
SteveT
Untill you recieve your Owners Manual look here:-
http://www.pajero.dn.ru/pdf/
SteveN
mark iow
This is my account of the work I did on my headlamp washers on my
Mk2 2.5TD
May Bank Holiday – decided to see why my headlamp power washer
didn’t work and why the panels lights dimmed when the button was
pressed. Jacked up vehicle, removed front o/s wheel. Removed mud
flap and then proceed to remove wheel arch lining (aren’t those rawl
plug type clips a sod). Located the tank with pump mounted in end.
Took pipe off and a gallon of water poured out. Found the 10mm AF
bolt above the pump that secured the pump to the tank, disconnected
the pump electrics (although the pump connector is also secured to
the tank). Eventually removed pump. (Found out later from another
member that it is better to drop the whole tank and pump as a single
assembly)
Pump Disassembly - Bent back the three tags which allowed the pump
impeller assembly to be removed. Found the motor spindle was totally
jammed; this ‘stalled’ motor explained why the lights dimmed when
the button was pressed as the current would be several amps. Placed
spindle in a vice and gently tapped the casing (then bit harder)
until it came away revealing the motor rotor and brush assembly and
a casing full of water. I should have given up at this time but ….
One of the pole magnets was unglued so after cleaning this was
re-glued using epoxy adhesive. The rotor was wire brushed to remove
rust and deposits. By the way, be careful of the brush springs they
are not captive, ended up having to replace a lost one with a biro
spring. Since the pump gland around the motor shaft was most likely
leaking, hence the water in the motor, then I reasoned that it would
be better to allow any further leakages to escape so I drilled 3off
2.5mm holes: one on the bottom into the motor compartment; one to
bottom of the cavity between the motor and the pump ( this cavity is
very narrow) and the last at the top of this cavity to let air in. I
also fit a small interference fit plastic washer (made from overhead
acetate) on the spindle between the motor and the pump to act as a
block to water getting into the motor. When re-assembled the pump
worked well. It draws more than 1 amp even under no load condition.
Was it worth it. Not really, must have taken 3 - 4 hours and
although the pump gives a good jet of water I’m not sure it will be
effective for general road dirt. If you really want this function
you’d probably be better to find a scrap lorry/bus washer pump unit
because I’m not convinced the above repair will last. I looked at
other washer pumps in Halfords but they wouldn’t be powerful enough.
My washer only squirts for 1 or 2 seconds due to some control
electronics in the car."
Another one for the Archive Simon??
SteveN |
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2002 10:51 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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mark iow Guest
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Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2002 9:59 Post subject: |
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It is now several months since I repaired my washer pump, as described in my write up posted by SteveN, and it is still working fine. If you really want this function, and I still question how effective the headlamp washer is, then perhaps stripping and repairing your existing pump is a cheap if time consuming option to achieve this.
Mark |
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jessielee *
Joined: 10 Oct 2002 Posts: 35 Location: Philippines
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Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2002 15:59 Post subject: |
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I got a different problem with my Headlamp washer, the tank always get empty. Every morning i would fill up the headlamp washer tank, i inspect the noozle its ok without leak. Then i would push the headlamp washer button, after pushing it the first time, it would spray after that i would see the water slowly continuosly coming out from the nozzle until the water tank is empty again. Should a VACUUM from the water tank hold the water so it will not drip? I try to remove the tube after the motor, the tube going to the nozzle, as far as i remember i could see the water dripping or flowing after it came from the motor. |
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PoCUK Site Admin
Age: 60 Zodiac: Joined: 09 Oct 2002 Posts: 3749 Location: S/W New Forest Border
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2003 9:42 Post subject: watch out for an additional 'gotcha'... |
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Thanks to Westfield for the following addition :
"Thought it might be usefull for other members to hear about my findings.
After removing the motor from the washer bottle and stripping it down as per an earlier thread on this problem. It was clear that so much water had entered the motor body, the armature and windings were completely rusted.
Removed windings and armature from motor body, placed in a drill that was clamped in a vice and cleaned with 300 grade wet and dry, both the windings drum and very lightly on the brass armature, where the carbon brushes contact.
washed out with white spirit and coated with WD 40.
After re-assembly, noticed that the motor was still not working, stripped down again and checked continuity at the carbon brushes. Nothing!
After closer inspection it was apparent that there is a small overload contact alongside the brush housings, this was not closed, due to the fact the motor had overloaded while trying to operate with all the c**p in it.
Cleaned and closed the contacts and now working fine.
Just thought this may be usefull for anyone else thinking of getting this common problem resolved." |
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