The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[paul_c2]

Today I've done the front. Here's the rough procedure:

1. Jack up and support on axle stands

2. Remove wheels. Clean up the area, and remove the rubber flap/sheet which lines the inner wheelarch to provide access:



3. Note, the bonnet is up because on the left, one of the bolts holding the electronic adjusting actuator for the damper, is very awkward to reach, the brake pipe gets in the way. So, this bunch of adapters and extensions was used:



4. So, remove the little actuators (8mm nut), then the 2x top bolts for the damper (probably 17mm or 19mm) then the bottom nut and bolt (17mm). On the left, one of the top nuts was impossible to loosen, so it was cut off with a dremel. Then remove the damper.

5. Fit the new damper. I had a real struggle because the new ones were gas filled (the rears were fine though) because the access is awkward and as it takes time to place the damper in the right position, it expands and jams somewhere else. So, eventually I figured I could 'lock' it in the down position with some wire:



6. Fit the new dampers, the bottom bolt is 70Nm and the tops say 15Nm but I used the "squash the bush to half size" method again (since its a nyloc nut).

7. Tie up (if its still there) the electronic adjuster and its wire, so it doesn't catch or bang, etc:



8. Torsion bars: clean up the adjusting thread and undo the nut at the top separate from the other, and remove. Then undo the main nut, if they've been installed correctly then they should become loose (no tension):



9. Once the tension is removed, unbolt the front bracket:



(Note, right side pictured):


10. Detach both end brackets, slide off the boots, maneuvre out the old torsion bar.

11. Clean everything up (bolts, boots, brackets etc) and slide in the new torsion bar noting that you use the one for the correct side, and observe the markings to get it the right way round. Refit the boots and loosely fit the brackets, the front one can be slid beyond and used to do the coarse adjustment. I did the coarse adjustment to allow fitting the large adjust nut at the back, easily enough.

12. Do a guess first adjustment (helpful to base it on previous approx position).

13. Repeat all the above for the other side.

14. Refit wheels, put back on the ground and measure ride height. I used wheelarch to centre of wheel as a reference.

15. Raise to take the weight off the wheels, and tighten/loosen adjustment as needs be. Lower off jack, bounce the suspension a few times to let it settle, then measure. Repeat as needed.







I also took a measurement of the clearance at the lowest point of the underside bash plate. Previously it was 220mm, now its 274mm (+54mm height increase), obviously allowing a little error for the rough ground.

This is the old suspension I'd removed:



And I seem to be left with only a handful of unfitted parts (any suggestions?):

[Google]

[bing]

they are the mandatory spare bits put in, to confuse and irratate      

[jetskidavid]

nice photos well written
looks much better

[paul_c2]

[haylands]

Hi

I chopped off about 1/2 the front bump stops, and the rears, seems alright to me.... I'd check your rear prop u/j's as mine has no vibration and the back of mine has gone up about 70mm...

Pete

[NJV6]

[idratherbesurfing]

I just removed all my bumpstops   though most would not like the idea

[subzero]

you shouldnt have any vibration from that small a lift check the uj's like said

[paul_c2]

[Nomadsz]

Just fitted the full Ironman kit to my Mark One, fronts torsion bars and rear coil springs. After they sent the right rear shocks as they sent the same as in the picture at the beginning of this thread rather than the Eye at each end i needed.

I have find i am getting noise form the rear end, I have replaced the UJs with one from Milner and stil getting vibrations. The lift is about 75mm form the old tired springs, but these were bouncing off the bump stops with only light loads in the back. I think i was supplied with LWB spring sas i intend to tow some heavy trailers and for loading up the rear. Will post some pictures later.

Any suggestions? on how i drop or angle the transfer box to lessen the angle of attack on the rear prop shaft. or could i be putting stain on something else with such a large lift?

Don't mean  to hijack the thread but any help appreciated.

[fritz]

Just fitted rear Ironman Springs & Desert Fox Torsion bars to my lwb v6 & wanted to say thank you for the guide, it prepped me really well & knew exactly what I was up too!  Very handy with the pictures.  Got just over a 2" lift all round.  

Took about 45mins to get the rears changed over and about the same for the fronts although did faff a bit marking them up the same as the regular mitsi ones.

Thanks again, good work!

Fritz

[m3crj]

you could do the ball jopint flip which involves removing the upper ball joint and mounting it on the bottom of the upper arm rather than on the top of the upper arm this will give the equivilant to trimming the bump stops you just need 3 new bolts for each side (not sure what length) i'm planning on doing the same to mine      
just an idea for ya to stew over this way you still get the standard progression of the bump stop not a harsh jolt (which is what you get by trimming the point off)


p:s more pics which ever ya decide     looking good fella

[map-man]

[icomefromlanddownunder]

[idratherbesurfing]

^^^^^

FAIL