The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[jrrodger]

Good day all;

  I have been working away at getting my 2.5 4D56 sealed up for oil and coolant leaks.  Unfortunately, when I tried to remove the lower balance shaft off, the allen key that i was using to hold the balance shaft broke off in the side of the engine.  I would estimate a 1/2"-3/4" piece is in the engine.  

As I do not know what the engine looks like on the inside of the balance shaft I was wondering a couple of things for those of you that have had your engine block apart:

1) Does the balance shaft "cavern" drain directly into the oil pan or does the lower balance shaft help circulate the oil upwards?
2) If I choose not to run the balance shaft (many people have already discussed the pros/cons of running no balance shaft) is it worth trying to recover the broken piece of metal in the cavern?
3) I am not very clear on the process to taking out the lower or upper balance shafts, but what are the main parts to take off, assuming you have the timing belts removed and the crank pulleys off as well?  

Right now I am really frustrated with the engine and how useless the silent shaft assembly/design appears to be.  

regards,

James R

[Google]

[leafy]

Pic with the sump off ......balance shaft can just be seen....gives you an idea






Pic of belts and pulleys........

Pretty sure I left my bottom balance shaft pulley on and the shaft came out attached to the bottom cover once it was all unbolted.

[jrrodger]

Thank you Leafy;


Just another dumb question for you though.  I think you have confirmed with the first attached picture that the cavern for the  lower balance shaft drains into the oil pan (top right of your picture).  However I am not sure if the oil pump seals up that cavern or does the oil pump get installed right there.

Basically I am considering whether it is worth taking apart the whole sump assembly or not.

thank you in advance!

James R

[nick-dudley]

if the piece has fell inside, as long as its fell into the sump, things should be ok. drain the oil, leave sump plug out, spray brake/ carb cleaner through till it sort of washes sump out. try removing the dipstick tube or go via sump plug hole, use s small headed retractable magnet and "go fishing" through there, but remember there are lots of things in there the magnet can stick to  
worth a shot

[jrrodger]

I will try the magnet trick for a little while, but I am betting 75-80% likely the piece of screwdriver is in the sump.  It is pretty small and looking at the courtesy picture shown above most likely it has fallen or will "settle into" the sump.  Assuming that there isn't huge sludge buildups...  LOL!

So onto putting together this beast and setting the main timing belt in properly....

Incidentally as I see almost as many arguments in favor of re-inserting the balance belts as leaving the belt out (mine was snapped when I opened the timing cover).  I am going to flip a coin on whether I will add the balance belt in tomorrow.  The actual idea of silent shafts is good, but the way the 4d56 designed the secondary belt tensioner spring system is not very impressive and likely leads to the belt failures

thanks for everyone's assistance....  Lots of On-The-Job training tonight on this forum!  

Incidentally if it helps anyone, I found that getting the main crank and balance seals out was best completed with a carefully placed dental pick rather than the taped up screwdriver.  

James R

[El Ricko]

im sure you have to block the oil supply to the ballance shaft if you remove it

[nick-dudley]

yes you would have to find a way of blocking the oil supply as the balance shaft bearings are oil-fed, without the shafts being there, it would pee out, giving no oil pressure.

[El Ricko]

drill in to the oil feeds where the balance shaft bearings are , then tap them and screw a grub screw in with some locking compound