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and ***
Age: 70 Zodiac: Joined: 26 Sep 2010 Posts: 219 Location: wolverhampton
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Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 15:21 Post subject: compass |
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hi there is probely a quetion on here already but i cant find it , my compass and temp worked for a while yesterday then stopped i have checked all the wires i can find .Behind the clocks and behind speedo and under the dash moved them about neither compass or temp worked i have seen flicker on and of before so i dont think there is a problem with the guage any ideas |
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Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 15:21 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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rich r ********
Age: 50 Zodiac: Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Posts: 5332 Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
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Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 15:45 Post subject: |
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More than likely it's the usual failure of the capacitors in the compass/temp gauge unit. I've had two, and both have suffered from it.
There are guides on here on how to repair it though - if you're handy with a soldering iron.
Mine currently half works - the temperature display is fine, but the compass never calibrates no matter how many times I drive in circles after pressing the calibrate button. I really must get round to replacing the rest of the capacitors... |
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and ***
Age: 70 Zodiac: Joined: 26 Sep 2010 Posts: 219 Location: wolverhampton
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Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 17:09 Post subject: compass |
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would the capaceters work somtimes and not others temp and compass come on then go of as thow there is somthing loose |
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gegs750k4 ********
Age: 51 Zodiac: Joined: 24 Dec 2008 Posts: 6513 Location: Wigan
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Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 17:18 Post subject: |
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yep, if the soldered joints are dry then you will get an intermittent signal until it goes all together. |
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rich r ********
Age: 50 Zodiac: Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Posts: 5332 Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
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Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:20 Post subject: |
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Yes - mine would work if it was warm, but not if it was cold. There's a combination of faults - capacitors drying out and dry solder joints. If there's enough electrolyte in the right place, the capacitors work - though not necessarily at their correct value, so strange things can happen.
The solution is to remove the compass from the instrument panel (just a few screws), then open it up and replace every electrolytic capacitor you can see. There are quite a few, and they're squashed up close together. |
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Walt *******
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 01 May 2010 Posts: 2647 Location: Australia
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 12:49 Post subject: |
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rich r wrote: |
Yes - mine would work if it was warm, but not if it was cold. There's a combination of faults - capacitors drying out and dry solder joints. If there's enough electrolyte in the right place, the capacitors work - though not necessarily at their correct value, so strange things can happen.
The solution is to remove the compass from the instrument panel (just a few screws), then open it up and replace every electrolytic capacitor you can see. There are quite a few, and they're squashed up close together. |
Hi m8,
the unit is in pieces now, i am looking at the capacitors - yes there are a few, two large green capacitors drew my attention, and they don't look right, as if they are pregnant
My question is that, I can't just replace it with any capacitor, and there are no marking in it either so that I can get the right one, would Maplines know just by looking at them and give me the right one? or will they laugh at me, cause I know capacitors have got ratting in micro and nano etc.... if you've replaced yours, how did you get hold of new ones?
Cheers mate |
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rich r ********
Age: 50 Zodiac: Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Posts: 5332 Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 13:37 Post subject: |
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All the capacitors should have markings on them. They need to be the same value - 4.7uF, 10uF etc. Can you post a photo of your pcb and I'll have a look on my spare one to see what's there?
Maplin are pathetic for electronic components these days. You're much better off using RS, Farnell or CPC - all of who now sell to the general public (they used to only deal with companies). I usually use Farnell for most things, but RS if there's something Farnell don't do, or RS do cheaper. |
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Walt *******
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 01 May 2010 Posts: 2647 Location: Australia
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 16:39 Post subject: |
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Hi Rich,
Just been to Maplin, and yes they do have attitude! (not allowed to examine your components!) I hope I can attach the pic that I have just taken.
I am concerned about the two big green capacitors, marked by arrow. it says on them 104k50 and then the letter R in a square mark followed by letter S
Don't have a clue what it means mate.
won't allow me to post a pic, it says I have reached your max upload Quota limit of 1 Bytes. !! Too Blo ody technical for me |
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Walt *******
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 01 May 2010 Posts: 2647 Location: Australia
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Walt *******
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 01 May 2010 Posts: 2647 Location: Australia
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 20:08 Post subject: |
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Internet is good m8 - just a bit of research and I found out what those numbers mean.
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/v1stim.htm
The capacitor I am looking for should be 0.1uF 50V with tolerance 10%
So a trip back to those lazy maplin (they are near my house m8)
getting interesting now.... |
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rich r ********
Age: 50 Zodiac: Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Posts: 5332 Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:14 Post subject: |
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Those green capacitors look normal. They aren't electrolytic types, they're plastic film ones which are meant to look like that (they're made of a sheet of plastic with aluminium foil, rolled up then dipped in a resin. They are very reliable and will be fine.
The ones you need to replace are the black cylindrical ones. These are electrolytic capacitors, which have a paper layer soaked in a liquid electrolyte between two foil layers. Over time they tend to leak and dry out (in the 1930s, you used to get 'wet can' electrolytics that you could top up!). This type of capacitor often only has a lifetime of 10 years, or less (depending on use). 90% of power supply failures in computers and TVs are due to electrolytic capacitors that have had a hard life and leaked.
One of my hobbies is restoring old radios - you get to know what is and isn't reliable. Though ironically pre-1960s electrolytic capacitors are generally fine, it's the nasty wax coated paper and early plastic ones that you have to replace on sight! Luckily nobody makes those old types any more.
Make a note of the values on those - you'll need to get the capacitance and voltage - and see if Maplin do them. You'll need the same capacitance, but you can use a higher voltage one if they don't have any the same. However, a capacitor that can handle 50V is usually a lot bigger than one that can handle 10V, so you'll probably find that any higher rated ones won't physically fit!
But once you've got the values (I'm sure there was an article linked off here that gave all the values, but can't find it at the moment), do try looking at the big component suppliers like Farnell and RS - you'll find they're less than half the price of Maplin, and have a huge range of values and sizes. Delivery is generally next day (when I was at university, we could order before 10am and have things mid-afternoon from RS!) |
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Walt *******
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 01 May 2010 Posts: 2647 Location: Australia
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:10 Post subject: |
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Thanks rich, very informative and very useful. with kids half term, I have all the time I need, so I take my time and give it ago.
Cheers mate.
will keep you posted |
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Walt *******
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 01 May 2010 Posts: 2647 Location: Australia
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 16:53 Post subject: |
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Hi rich, You are a star mate! thanks for your advise. I bought all the capacitors and then started examining the PCB with a lens, can't see small things too close, (it's just the age ) .
There was one capacitor which just didn't look right, underneath it was all burned etc so I tried to remove that and it took me a good while. (very difficult ) replaced it eventually and I thought let's give it a try, so I tried it in the car and so here it comes the temp and the compass HORRYYYYYY ! Really pleased with myself
I would have done the rest as well only if I had your talent + patient + knowledge
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rich r ********
Age: 50 Zodiac: Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Posts: 5332 Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 17:27 Post subject: |
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Yeah, they're crammed in pretty tight aren't they!
I need to get round to finishing mine off - I ran out of capacitors in my box of components and didn't get round to ordering any more... |
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Marklyall9 Newbie
Age: 46 Zodiac: Joined: 20 Feb 2014 Posts: 1 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 14:33 Post subject: |
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Hi guys.
I realise that this topic is quite old but I'll give it a go anyway.
my temp display works to a degree.
It shows 68, 69, 70 and then flashes ES
I've replaced the sensor behind the bumper making sure that I had the correct resistance readings.
I've got the compass out and am looking at the back of it and all of the capacitors look ok. If I replace them all anyway do you think my gauge will work properly?
Seems daft to be going to such extremes for the outside temp display but the flashing ES really annoys me. |
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