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Crank pullley bolt


 
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bogblaster
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 21:04    Post subject: Crank pullley bolt Reply with quote

fitted a new crank pulley today but cant find anway of locking the engine to tighten the bolt up?
its a 2.8 manual.
I cant see any inspection plate where i can lock the fly wheel and the engine just turns over with it in gear and foot on the brake.
any ideas?

how tite should the nut be? will it tighten itself as the engine turns?
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SHED
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 21:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

on the bell housing underneath the inspection plate is ther you have to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel
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gtvsaviour
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 13:19    Post subject: Cank bolt pulley Reply with quote

On a manual - if it's in gear - then that 'should' lock the engine via the drivetrain - you turn that over and the thing will move!
Use reverse - just in case  Wink

John
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Paul83c
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 13:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should see this........



The large sump is the oil sump.
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tonkerkie
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 5:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said earlier in this post, especially if its an automatic, as its the only way, get another person to lock the flywheel by removing the lower plate on the bell housing. The torque the 19mm crankshaft pulley bolt to 130 ft/lbs.
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gtvsaviour
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 11:18    Post subject: Re: Crank pullley bolt Reply with quote

bogblaster wrote:

its a 2.8 manual.


Before you do crawl underneath and unbolt the plate - lock the flywheel etc....
- you really should be able to manage with it in gear and someone on the footbrake - handbrake on etc... chock the wheels - if you're still able to move it with all that done - I will never ever try to anger you in any way shape or form!
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Mark3
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 12:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

crank pulley torques up to 230nm or 170lbft
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mimauk
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 14:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I done mine - 2.8 manual - I was on my own so I just got a ring spanner on it and tightened it as hard as I could before it spun and then gave it 3 hefty thumps with a lump hammer.

It's still running ok after 3 years.   Laughing  Laughing  Laughing
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4ePikanini
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 14:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use fourth gear with handbrake and foot brake.
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Mark3
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 16:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may be worth taking into account the damage that can be caused to crank shaft snout if a crank pulley (harmonic damper) bolt comes undone from not being tightened up correctly



This is the same set up as a 4M40, its a Toyota 7MGTE with harmonic damper pulley that didn't have the pulley bolt tightened up correctly and it wasn't noticed that it was loose for a fair time, the huge gash used to be a woodruff key half moon slot!!!!
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Spacemonkey
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 22:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

MX5s have the same problem, usually because the early 1.6 torque setting is used on the 1.8, so it wobbles and wears. The accepted fix is to clean the slot, fix a new woodruff key in place and fix with chemical metal to fill the gaps and secure the key. File to fit properly, and use a certain loctite to secure the new pulley, and threadlock the new bolt. I did mine on my MX5 thanks to a so called specialist using the wrong torque figure, and torqued it with the in gear and brake method. Did thousands more miles like it, no problems.

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trekker
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 17:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look in Search, Crankshaft holding tool 2.5. You'll find a pic, and a sketch of the holding tool dimensions which I made up, fitting is self explanatory.
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cjard
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 10:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I needed to do mine I drilled a hole through the pulley towards the outer rim, put a steel rod into the hole then used a bar to brace between the steel rod and the chassis. The only ill effect from having done so was that it exasperated Mark3 somewhat
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hutchy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 16:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

i always remove the starter on manuals and the inspection plate on auto,s and fit a pry bar in there,i used to use the old put it in gear,but found it can put strain on the chain or timing belt Question
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NeilG
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 22:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my '96 2.8 the pulley(s) (old and new) have two holes for a holding tool. I made said tool from 40mm angle bent to about 110deg at one end and drilled for two bolts - worked a treat. (Shame about the woodruff key saga - see my post about this).

Neil.
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