The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[JYANSEN]

Hi Ian im not to sure what the parts are called so ive taken a few pictures of the engine bay to highlight. I dont know whether i have downloaded these pictures correctly.?????


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/005cn.jpg/       (Coolant leak stain at back of engine)
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/121/007de.jpg/      (Think this is the diesel leak,little puddle of diesel surrounding the bigger hexagnal screw)
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/006uon.jpg/     ( A closer view of diesel leak puddle)
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/10/009adr.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/008tky.jpg/      ( This looking up from underneith the car,im literally directly under the oil filter, think these are the cooling pipes there on about,lots of oil here, the pipes seem metal with a plastic sleeve over them.?

Regards Jay

[maximus999]

Jay, I can identify all the pictures except i cant see the oil leak on the last 2 as there is oil everywhere.

First thing to do is start with the injector leak, Phone Mitsubishi up and get the 4 leak off washers for the injector rail, the washers are a compressed type which forms to the underside of the return rail, the washers have 2 holes in them to leak back any unused diesel into the rail, they are simple to change. Remove the inter-cooler (as it will be easier out of the way.), undo the fuel pipes which are on top of each injector and to move these slightly out of the way follow the pipes down to the fuel pump and you will see identical nuts there also,undo them just a little so you can pull the pipes about an inch from the injectors to get at the rail. Once this is done undo the nuts which hold down the rail (one on each injector) and the rail will pop of with a little wiggling, once off take the old washers out and put the new ones in and put everything back together. Be a little careful when you put the nuts on which hold down the rail cause if you over tighten these nuts it will kink the return rail pipes but you will see if you have gone a little to far as you will see the big hexagon nuts on the fuel rail move and the pipes kink a ittle but it will be ok..

Water leak, clean the whole area down where you see the stains, run your engine at idle and let it get up to temperature and look to see where the leak is coming from and take a pic and put it on here.

Same for the oil leak to identify where it is coming from, clean the area down run at idle and have a good look to see where it is coming from.

I wish there was an easy way to identify from the pics where it is coming from but with a little patients you will see but the best time to do it is on a night time when it is dark and with a torch as you will be able to see the shining coming off the oil and water when they seep out or even close the bonnet and get underneath with the torch


Let me know what you can see.

Ian

[maximus999]

Jay, if you cant get to mitsi order these from fleebay. It is the silver ones that you need.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISHI-L200-2-5-TD-INJECTOR-WASHERS-SET-8-/270788749084?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0c44671c#ht_936wt_1139

Ian

[JYANSEN]

Hi Ian, ive ordered those washers from e bay, should be here in a couple of days. Sorry to sound stupid but are the fuel pipes the things that are next to the glow plugs, with a kind of pipe coming out the top of them, they have various sized nuts on the top of them going down its body.??? do i undo the top nut on all four of them.?? Sorry but ive never touched an engine before so am a complete novice, but a quick learner.  

The missus has got the car today but ill look at everything else you said tomorrow.

Thanks again for your advice.  

[maximus999]

Hi jay. You don't sound stupid at all. We all have to learn from somewhere. If your unsure on anything just ask away. The second picture shows two of your injectors. Each injector has a silver pipe going to them with a big bolt which screws onto each injector, if you follow the pipes down they bend all over the place and half way down them is metal connectors which fix them together as if to secure them, if you carry in following them they all go to the rear if the fuel pump. When you look at the fuel pump there is actually 5 pipes going to it but you only want to undo the four pipes which comes from your injectors so you can pull the pipes away slightly to get the fuel leak off rail out.  I will take some photos of mine and mark them up so you know what you are looking at. I will post them at say 7-8 tonight. Ian

[maximus999]

Jay here are the photos for your reference when taking the return rail off mate

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/804/photosv.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/photo1lw.jpg/

[JYANSEN]

Cheers Ian, those pictures made it a lot easier to understand, ill hopefully get on with that at the beginning of the week when the washers arrive from e bay. Thanks again. Regards Jay.

[JYANSEN]

OK here is the update on my warrior... Got the warrior back yesterday after being in with Mitsubishi to have the timing all sorted out and hopefully the engine management not come on any more.. The warrior started first time from a cold engine and no smoke out the back at all.. GOOD NEWS... The warrior was a lot better to drive, pulling through the keys better and a smoother drive... GOOD NEWS.... BUT it did not sort out the problem of being flat between 3000 and 4000 rpm and the engine management light came on again. Took back to Mitsubishi who plugged it into their diagnostic (Free of Charge) and it came back with the same fault code, which means Diesel pump..         Ive called 3 other Mitsubishi garages and talked them through the problems and they all said the same DIESEL PUMP. Although a couple said it could just be a sensor in the pump that is wrong, and not the actual pump. So ive managed to find a bloke that can recondition the pump at a fraction of the price that Mitsubishi quoted me. Hope that works. Ill keep you informed.

[DAZ270]

Good luck with it mate, hope it doesn't cost you too much to get it sorted..

[maximus999]

Jay, did you manage to sort the washers out?

[JYANSEN]

Hi Ian. only got the Washers through the other day, and the Warrior is already at a diesel pump specialist now, so i popped in and gave them to the mechanic, he said he will fit them for me whilst sorting out the diesel pump. Should hopefully get the Warrior back by middle of next week and hopefully FAULT FREE. Thanks for all your help again, ill let you know when i get it back, and also the price. Been told it would be between £750 and £1000.            

[DAZ270]

I thought I'd do a little update as I've done a few bits to the shogun over the last couple of weeks!
Last week I had 4 x new tyres fitted to the truck as 3 of the old tyres where nearing their legal limit 2 x where still onlly half worn! So I kept the best tyre I had left as a spare and went for 4 Continental Cross Contact tyres.
I also had 4 wheel alignment done and the air con regassed whilst I was there! That little visit made my wallet almost £750 lighter!
I've made some more adjustments (Again!) to the turbo! (more actuator spring preload too), and I really think its about there now, the trucks pulling very well.

The only things that where niggling me now where cosmetic things really.
I've taken the ally running boards off the truck as they where starting to look a little grotty! I rubbed them down with a fine grit paper cleaned them up, I then undersealed the underside of the steps with Hammerite stonechip Gaurd Underseal, I then primed and painted the top sides of the ally. Once the steps where dry I used a plastic underseal and Black paint to spray the plastic parts of the steps. They've come out well too!  






Next on my list was to underseal the whole of the truck!
I've wire brushed all of the underside of the chasis and got rid of all the dirt and loose flakey piant etc. I've then been using the hammerite stonechip gaurd underseal again everywhere under the car.
Some pics..


Lots of mud up in the arches even after just having it jetwashed!









Also once undersealed I decided to prime a paint the sump gaurd in silver



I've sprayed the exhast in Black High Temp paint


Bonnet support resprayed silver


Turbo heat sheild sprayed in High Temp black paint


I've still got more bits I want to spray and detail under the bonnet, but its getting there slowly!

Cheers  

[maximus999]

Daz, looking dam good mate, i am going to underseal mine in a couple of weeks to, cracking job on the steps! I would do that to mine but mine are not there anymore as i took them off mainly because i had no need for them and you have to take them off to get the rear wheel arches off (which i needed to do) and when i felt the weight of them i thought what the heck I am leaving them off.  Glad to see you are getting somewhere with yours.

Ian

[DAZ270]

Thanks for the comments Ian! Yea the steps do weigh a fair amount!  
If mine where rotten through on the brackets I would have done away with them, but the steps where in pretty good condition overall, just some surface rust bits of flakey paint etc, the same with most of the underside of the vehicle, in general it was in pretty good condition, just needed a bit of TLC!
It was a bit of a chore doing the underside of the car to be honest, I got pretty filthy doing it, lots of dust and crud in my eyes! (I should have worn goggles!) But now it's done I'm really happy with the results. Definitly worth doing in the end.  

[JYANSEN]

Hey Guys im finally back on the Forum and after a bill for £1300 and fully functioning Mitsubishi Shogun Sport Warrior is back on the road.. The diesel pump was sent away by my local garage to Diesel Bobs, where he found a couple of faults wrong with it. A reconditioned pump was fitted, oil leak fixed and diesel leak fixed and now she is running fine again. Just had her serviced and mot'd and all passed with flying colours.. Hopefully i can finally get around to doing some cosmetic work on her now rather than spending my days with the bonnet popped and endless trips to mechanics.