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brake caliper full service..step by step

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fest
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 22:37    Post subject: brake caliper full service..step by step Reply with quote

as title really...complete overhaul of brakes dont shoot me down if this has been done before it took ages to upload this lot Laughing  Laughing

tools required:- obvious ones -jack-axle stand-wheel brace,

17mm socket and ratchet
12mm socket
mole grips or small clamp
10mm spanner open end
8mm spanner open end
wire brush
2 flat blade screw drivers{one electrical type thats long}
wd40 or the like.
work bench and a vice
a good quality pair of pipe grips...b&q own dont cut the mustard and ends up in a lot of swearing when they snap and you punch your work bench Twisted Evil  Twisted Evil


so once wheel is off you have:-

while still attached to the hub its best to try and crack all the bolts you need to remove before takin caliper off.

so first thing is to clamp up the flexi brake pipe to stop loosing as much fluid as possibe.
once this is done crack the slider pin bolts and the carrier bolts both 17mm along with the bleed nipple 8mm and the brake pipe itself 10mm and the bracket that holds the
brake pipe is 12mm.
once off the truck retreat to the safety of second home..the female free zone known as the shed Rolling Eyes  Embarassed



once in the safety of said shed.....remove the bleed nipple..you may not have to but i had the fear i would snap it off.
hold the caliper in the vice and with a srewdriver or knife cut off the old rubber boot. once this is done you can grip the piston with the
pipe grips and turn and pull on the piston at the same time and out they come...first one was a doddle the second was a pain inthe  Exclamation  Exclamation  Exclamation  Exclamation


once the pistons are out you can get at the circlip that holds the rubber in place ...to remove this i prized it out with the electrical screwdriver
to get the bigger screwdriver in so i could the get hold of it with pipe grips and pull it out. once out remove the remains of the rubber seal and clean the groove
the rubber sits in.



you also need to remove the old seal inside the pot...



once all out and cleaned up should look a little like this.....

then its time for the new parts......


all from big red of the bay of blag...but phoned them direct and ordered.


slip in the new seals inside the pots...



then its down to the new rubber boots and pistons...

first thing to do is fit the rubber boot into the groove it sits in ..the fiddly part follows..
you need to push the middle of the boot down inside the pot but not to hard or far as you will
pull the whole thing back out  Evil or Very Mad  Evil or Very Mad
once in there insert the circlip that holds the boot in place making sure the clip is sat inside the rubber
as the first one i did when i tugged on the boot it popped out Twisted Evil
once this is in and secure its then time for the piston...

spray a little wd40 on the piston and a light spray on the seal inside the pot, the the tricky part is gettin the rubber boot
around the piston. little tip..they stretch more than you think.
stretch the boot around the piston and once in pull as much rubber up to the top as you can..to avoid it gettin pinched or trapped
when you push the piston home.
you can push the piston 3/4 home by hand then i used a clamp to get the last bit in..

and thats the hard part done really....

next is to bolt in the new slider pins remembering that the the one with the rubber piece on goes furthest away from the bleed nipple...
you cant get front and rear slider pins mixed up as they are different thread sizes.



once in smear a litte of the supplied grease onto the pins.



then get the carrier and replace the rubber boot on them and squeeze a little grease inside
not to much as the sliders wont go all the way in otherwise.



once re-assemble the caliper and refit to your truck...........

repeat another 3 times and job done.....

though back ones only have one piston not two but same process,

took me a little shy of 2 hours to do both front ones still have rears to do yet....

the total cost appart from my own time was just shy of £200 delivered.

its not really that hard a job so im now looking forward to no more sticking brakes.....

plus this worked out cheaper than re-con calipers with the surcharges you never get back {well i never have yet}

dont be afraid give it a go......GOOD LUCK.....hope this is of some help to folk.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 22:37    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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bigkeeko
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 22:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding. This will be referenced. Cheers.  Wink
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knightstorm
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 22:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

thumbright  Cool well done
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kalmac
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 22:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

sticky sticky oh i think this should be a sticky lol

blooming good write up m8 well done and looks like a good job
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OffRoadRob
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 23:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

lovely!!!

Just got a pair of these calipers to go on my mk1. Might have to do an overhaul now Wink

Rob.
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radiomike
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

>spray a little wd40 on the piston and a light spray on the seal inside the pot<

Please tell me you didn't really do that, have you any idea what WD40 can do to rubber?
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BIG RED
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 16:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

i didnt know i was selling them on the bay Laughing  next for a overhaul is that vice aint it.needs a new set of jaws Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing  Laughing
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BIG RED
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 16:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

radiomike wrote:
>spray a little wd40 on the piston and a light spray on the seal inside the pot<

Please tell me you didn't really do that, have you any idea what WD40 can do to rubber?


mentioning wd 40 do u know what its made from Question  Question  Question
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johndps
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 18:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

BIG RED wrote:
radiomike wrote:
>spray a little wd40 on the piston and a light spray on the seal inside the pot<

Please tell me you didn't really do that, have you any idea what WD40 can do to rubber?


mentioning wd 40 do u know what its made from Question  Question  Question


Is it not a derivative of napalm or something like that?
or its morning dew, with a dash of fairy dust, helping of snake spit, slowly distilled in red wine marinade til slippery.
I do know it took 40 attempts to get it right, hence the name...
water dispersant 40.
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MitsiMad
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 18:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up !! definately a thread worthy of being a sticky if you ask me !

TOP JOB !
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BIG RED
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 21:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont know if its true but i have been told wd40 is made of animal fats thats why it disperses water. Shocked
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radiomike
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 22:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

johndps wrote:
BIG RED wrote:
radiomike wrote:
>spray a little wd40 on the piston and a light spray on the seal inside the pot<

Please tell me you didn't really do that, have you any idea what WD40 can do to rubber?


mentioning wd 40 do u know what its made from Question  Question  Question


Is it not a derivative of napalm or something like that?
or its morning dew, with a dash of fairy dust, helping of snake spit, slowly distilled in red wine marinade til slippery.
I do know it took 40 attempts to get it right, hence the name...
water dispersant 40.


Napthalene and mineral oil to name just two ingredients.
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Walt
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 22:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

TOP JOB there fest!  Cool   thumbup

sticky please Si!
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D4B
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 22:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Fest, great write up, I need those caliper slider rubbers for my MK1 2.5.....
where did your kit come from please? Cheers
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D4B
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 22:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

soeery just read your post properly BIG RED  Embarassed  Cool
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