The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

dbamsey · ** Joined: 05 Feb 2011 Posts: 110 Location: Haverfordwest

Hi all,

Need to renew my outer CV boot on the drivers side shaft. How much oil is likely to drip out of the diff if I remove the shaft completely as I'd like to remove the shaft and fit the new boot on a bench at work.

cheers.

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pajjy · Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 22:41 Post subject:

not a lot will come out but easy to top up if required

tom fenton · Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 23:46 Post subject:

Jack only that side of the car up, as high as you can manage and put it on a stand. If you get it angled up enough you won;t lose any oil, or at least I didn;t on mine anyway.

dbamsey · ** Joined: 05 Feb 2011 Posts: 110 Location: Haverfordwest

Turns out its flanged, 4 bolts and it comes off, no oil can escape. Very Happy

Spacemonkey · Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 22:02 Post subject:

Any chance of a how to guide on doing this? I have to replace an outer on the driver's side and an inner on the other, so I might as well do all 4 as they're all a bit hard and perishing.

What has to come off or be separated?

dbamsey · ** Joined: 05 Feb 2011 Posts: 110 Location: Haverfordwest

Ok,

For the drivers side, jack up and support truck with an axle stand.

Remove Wheel
Remove the cap on the end of the hub
Remove circlip and shim from driveshaft that is poking out of hub
Remove brake caliper and support it by cable tie to the upper wishbone
Remove split pin and nut from track rod end and using a ball joint splitter or lump hammer, release the track rod from hub assembly
Remove split pin from lower ball joint, slacken nut but don't fully remove yet. Jack up lower wish bone to take the weight and then using the hammer or splitter release lower ball joint from hub. It should hopefully pop and the nut will stop it coming off completely.
Lower Jack
Remove Split Pin from upper ball joint and slacken nut but again don't remove. Release balljoint from upper wishbone with splitter or hammer.
Remove both upper and lower nuts while holding hub assembly(bit heavy) and remove hub completely, leaving drive shaft rest on lower wishbone.
Remove the 4 nuts from the inner shaft flange and remove drive shaft.

To change the outer boot you have to unclip the inner boot clamps and slide the boot down to the outer end, wipe the grease away from the inside of the CV joint and remove the large circlip and separate the joint. You can then see a smaller circlip on the end of the shaft, remove that and pull off the inner part of the CV joint.
You can then remove the outer boot and renew.

Assembly is in reverse order.

To do the passenger side, follow the instructions as for the drivers side. When you have got as far as removing the hub and the driveshaft is resting on the lower wishbone you need to release the inner boot clips and slide the boot down as far as the outer boot because the passenger side driveshaft isn't flanged so to prevent fluid loss from the diff you need to leave the inner CV joint in the diff. Wipe the grease away and remove the large circlip inside the inner CV joint then gently pull the driveshaft out and it will leave the inner joint in the diff. Fit the CV boots same as the drivers side and re-fit in reverse order.

Hopefully this will help.

Spacemonkey · Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:44 Post subject:

Yes it does thanks a lot!

Guess I'll have to it for my back to recover, or find someone else to do it.. Sad

Walt · Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 18:11 Post subject:

V8 rick did my driver side driveshaft last year. My lower ball joint was seized and I was under impression that I had to split it. But didn't need to do that, as per dbamsey's instructions and then he just split the top ball joint and the whole hub dropped off leaving us to pull the drive shaft completely out. Smile

noticed the other week that I also have a bit of split there Evil or Very Mad

So I will be doing the same. (of course when the weather is nicer Laughing

)

Spacemonkey · Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 18:42 Post subject:

Thanks.

Any mobile mechanics want to pm me a rough idea how much I should be paying to get all four front CV boots replaced and the front crankshaft oils seal? I got a mobile mechanic around the corner with a Mk2.5 Paj so might ask him, unless any mobile mechs wants the job in Swindon? I can't use my pit for ages and my back's shot at the mo', but it needs doing asap.. Rolling Eyes

delboy114 · Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 19:58 Post subject:

cvs shouldnt b too expensive in labour to do should be no more than 2 hours really and tront crank shaft seal is a bit longer cos uve gotta strip cambelt off and all that but i guess 2-3 hours for that depends on what the going rate is up ur way but dont pay thru the nose for it.

Spacemonkey · Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 20:28 Post subject:

Well just waiting for my car to be delivered back in 10 mins!

Got a local garage to do it, handy as the boss lives a couple of doors away from me! So they did the job next day squeezed in between their other booked jobs, and got them to fit my new crystal headlamps and do the alignment while they are there. So headlamps fitting and both side CV boots all in £279 including collect and deliver. I'm happy with that!

They quote me £100 to fit the crank oil seal, and while they're there I'll give them a new pulley, woodruff key, alt and aircon belts and bolt. Might as well swap while they're off.

FWIW they're Woods Garage, Station Road, Swindon, and they're very friendly and have lots of Shoguns/Pajeros themselves! Cool