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auto gearbox technical question

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assassin
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Age: 64
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 17:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never take mine to a dealer, but have dealt with the aftermath of those who have and not had the work done they were invoiced for.

Buy a cheap UV marker pen, 99p each, a cheap battery powered UV light, expensive at £2.99 and you have the makings of a test kit. Clean everything before the car goes in for services and mark everything with the UV marker as this is invisible to the naked eye, if a dealer is suspect then take pictures of the UV markings which is obviously with the UV light on it so it can be seen.

Literally paint any drain plugs so they glow under UV light, if they put a spanner or socket on it, it will remove some of the marker and when you apply your UV light you will see where the marker is, and the marks where a socket or spanner have wiped the UV markings off. For things like oil filters simply write a word on it.
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radiomike
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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 23:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunnydenefarm wrote:
Seems like we cannot use a certain word on here I will spell it phonetically "Siera Tango Echo Alpha Lima Echo Romeo"

I know that dealers are not on everyones Christmas card list but how did he steal, did he charge for an oil change that was not carried out?  Do you know for a fact that the dealer didn't tell your friend that a oil change was due and that your friend declined? Mitsubishi supply a check sheet with all the relevant service items and mileages that must be filled in by the technician, there should be a record of what has/hasn't been done.
In all honesty these gearboxes are not known for their longevity and if yours has reached 192k miles with poor maintenance you have done extremely well, almost unbelievable.
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assassin
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 2:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually these Aisin boxes are about the most reliable auto boxes around, all they ask for is clean ATF and replacement when its due and they go on forever.

Problems arise when some owners skimp and try to cut corners and don't have their ATF changed when its ready, or people bang stuff like Dexron II in them instead of Dia Queen SP II on MK 1 and 2 models, or mix several types of ATF together and this includes garages who top up with the wrong ATF.

Seen many Pajero/Shogun boxes go past 500,000 miles without problems.
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Sunnydenefarm
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 20:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Radiomike,
    the use of the word begining steal' was only used for a laugh. The A/T oil wasn't charged for, but a few pence for a washer was, thereby we assume that no oil was changed. The previous owner, a good friend of mine was a company director at the time ( since retired ). The company paid for all the servicing and if you saw all the invoices not a penny was spared on the Shogun. Apart from the intial 54,000mile A/T oil change, which we assumed was done as it was charged for, all the other invoice ( every 9,000 miles ) there is not a mention of A/T oil on any invoice.

Hi Assassin,
   all that I have read about these boxes, tells me that it's expiry was premature. Everything I have read is insistant that the oil be changed at the correct service intervals and the correct type of oil be used.
There again the same applies to any mechanical devive that requires lubrication.

I appreciate everyones comments, the st word won't be used again, we will refer them as over priced dealers ( well they seem that way when you do most of the work yourself ).

Dave
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AlfA01
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2019 15:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunnydenefarm wrote:
It's a sad day in our household, we are looking at a gearbox repair or replacement. The trick of disconnecting the A/T ecu worked fine, except for the fact that it wasn't the result I wanted.
This isn't the end of this saga, when we save some pennies we will get it sorted.

I do hope the trick with the A/T ecu helps others to quickly determine as wether it is an electronic or mechanical fault........Watch this space ( in a month or 2 ).

Dave


Old thread....sorry to revive it, but I'm seeing some very similar issues with my gearbox.  I don't have Reverse.  In Manual, it will shift above 2nd.  

I'm wanting to disconnect the ECU on mine and do a reset.  Curious what procedure you followed here.
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AlfA01
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2019 15:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

AlfA01 wrote:
Sunnydenefarm wrote:
It's a sad day in our household, we are looking at a gearbox repair or replacement. The trick of disconnecting the A/T ecu worked fine, except for the fact that it wasn't the result I wanted.
This isn't the end of this saga, when we save some pennies we will get it sorted.

I do hope the trick with the A/T ecu helps others to quickly determine as wether it is an electronic or mechanical fault........Watch this space ( in a month or 2 ).

Dave


Old thread....sorry to revive it, but I'm seeing some very similar issues with my gearbox.  I don't have Reverse.  In Manual, it will shift above 2nd.  

I'm wanting to disconnect the ECU on mine and do a reset.  Curious what procedure you followed here.


Video of me shifting between various gears while the engine is running at idle.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_Ce4kwxIM0
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4ePikanini
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reverse activation is a mechanical one. If you disconnect all wires, and move the lever to Reverse, you should still have reverse.

Check the index of the selector cable under the car. Double check fluid level.

If it still doesn't engage reverse, the clutch bands are ruined or the ATF galleries are blocked with crud.
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AlfA01
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 13:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

4ePikanini wrote:
The reverse activation is a mechanical one. If you disconnect all wires, and move the lever to Reverse, you should still have reverse.

Check the index of the selector cable under the car. Double check fluid level.

If it still doesn't engage reverse, the clutch bands are ruined or the ATF galleries are blocked with crud.


I flushed the fluid, changed the filter and checked the resistance of the valve chest valves.  After running the car without drive or reverse...the sump pan was full of metal shavings for a second time.  

I suspected that the hydraulic pump was failing and decided to swap out the gearbox and torque converter.  After swapping out the gearbox, I don't have any Forward or Reverse....the engine just revs like it's in Neutral.

There is no flashing Neutral light and manually shifting is limited to 2nd gear by in the indicator light in the dash.  It's as if the AT ECU has shutdown or has thrown the transmission into limp mode.  

I'd need a little further explanation on the mechanical reverse.  From what I've seen from taking this apart, there is only one mechanical component (cable), which is the same for all gears.

Otherwise, all shifting is electrohydraulic.  From what I'm able to see by lowering the sump pan and valve chest, these gearboxes have 6 electrically operated solenoids.
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euigus
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 20:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s been a while since I’ve been here,,I have the chance to pick up a cheap 3.2 with some auto box problems, it started that they only had reverse, so they got what was told was a good gearbox and had it fitted, after this there was no drive at all, it looks like there is no oil from the priming pump being circulated when you disconnect the pipe for the cooler, level on the stick looks ok. All the lights on the dash light up as they should

The old gearbox is still with them, but the oil was well cooked and stinking!

Is there anything their mechanic could have missed which would cause no oil circulation?

Thanks in advance

John
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euigus
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 20:22    Post subject: Help! Reply with quote

It’s been a while since I’ve been here,,I have the chance to pick up a cheap 3.2 with some auto box problems, it started that they only had reverse, so they got what was told was a good gearbox and had it fitted, after this there was no drive at all, it looks like there is no oil from the priming pump being circulated when you disconnect the pipe for the cooler, level on the stick looks ok. All the lights on the dash light up as they should

The old gearbox is still with them, but the oil was well cooked and stinking!

Is there anything their mechanic could have missed which would cause no oil circulation?

Thanks in advance

John
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euigus
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 20:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops! Stinking eyepad posted twice! Sorry Rolling Eyes
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euigus
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2020 8:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update and maybe a little warning as to who you let work your truck!

I stripped the replacement gearbox out yesterday to find that their mechanic hadn’t paid any attention to the alignment of the torque converter when re-installing, and had to pull the gearbox home using the bell house bolts, the drive gear had the “flats” worn away and the gear broken into 3 pieces, luckily I was able to salvage the parts from the old gearbox and it’s now running smoothly
Saved from going to the scrap!

Cheers
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assassin
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Request the service information from the dealer, if the vehicle has been regularly serviced and they have checked the ATF at every service (which is in the service schedule) then you have a case, speak to a solicitor and use one with the first consultation free so you don't spend money, and see what he/she says.

You may not win the case outright but you may get a quid pro quo situation where the dealer splits the costs with you 50:50 and you only end up paying half what you would.
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