The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[johng3165]

Hi red brake warning light came on this morning, after checking there appears to be a leak at the rear not sure exactly but it's wet above the rear axle just where the suspension arm and inner cv joint is on the near side. What I don't know is this pipe metal or rubber does it go the length of the axle as without putting it onto a ramp I can't see anyone help please

[Google]

[tom fenton]

I would bet that it's a metal pipe gone rotten and burst leaking fluid. I overhauled my rear suspension this year and found both pipes to the rear badly corroded. They both run down the drivers side and then the passengers turns across the truck roughly above the rear diff. Access will be poor unless you drop the fuel tank or rear subframe, fuel tank being the far easier of the two.

[BenKenobi]

Yup. Fuel tank drop is best option.

You 'could' probably muddle through with the tank in place providing you have triple joints and the hands of a 3 year old but I wouldn't hold much for the standard of the job. The pipe to the nearside rear (passenger side) is one long piece all the way from the front of the car at a joint on the chassis rail, it bends over toward the nearside on the drivers side and essentially runs across the back parallel to the drive shafts.

I wouldn't hold out much hope of splicing it as the originals that came off mine were really brittle and in poor condition - not a good foundation for joints.

You may also find that separating the metal brake pipe from the flexible pipe and its associated clips a bit of an exercise too.

When you replace the pipe you need to make some blanks to stop the fluid leaking out of the reservoir - failing to do this will involve a recovery vehicle and a trip to Mitsubishi because once the reservoir is empty they are the only ones that can bleed these systems - needs to be plugged into the Mitsubishi diagnostic tool.

The metal pipes have to be made, you can't buy them from Mitsubishi so unless you have the confidence to tackle this it is a job for somebody that knows what they are doing.

[geodrome]

They can be done without dropping the tank etc. I know I did mine!  
You need to plug with two blank pipes at the union where the pipes head up the bulk head to the master unit. Then using soft copper pipe feed it along the sill and make sure you mark which is NS and offside, the soft copper pipe lets you follow the route of the old pipes. You wont get the factory bends but it will work .
Be prepared for a bit of swearing though.

[BenKenobi]

I did it with the tank out but I still swore quite a bit ...  

Didn't use copper though I used Cunifer (or Kunifer - depends where you buy it) which is less likely to corrode and fatigue fracture. I also used brass fittings, not sure how all this will handle the stainless fittings on the flexi hoses.

I should have added that step one is to make sure that the fluid level is maintained - even now unless it is now empty then you're up the proverbial creek valley with no means of propulsion.

Step two is to make sure that the bleed nipples at the rear can be undone without breaking them off.

And if doing one pipe chances are that the other needs doing too. I've had to do both my rears, both rear flexi's and I need to do the same at the front so it may be worthwhile checking all yours.

Mine ...



this bit is fiddly - since it will all be completely obscured by the tank if it isn't removed ...

[johng3165]

Thanks guys think it will be a job for local garage, and costly Oh the joys of motoring