The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[BIGWOOD]

I’ve been on this forum for almost a year now.  I see a lot of threads dedicated to modifications and upgrades to blanking EGRs, bolt-on winches, bullbars, suspension lifts, tire upgrades, CBs, fuel additives, auxiliary lights, snorkels, and other cool and interesting things you can do to your baby.  However I don’t see much talk about EGTs or pyrometers.  In my opinion if have a diesel, especially one with a turbo equiped and you are thinking about spending your hard earned cash on upgrades, this is one that should not be overlooked.  Obviously this is just my opinion and you are welcome to your comments and your opinion.

For those that are not in the know, a pyrometer is an exhaust temperature gauge that allows you to read an immediate change in exhaust temperature by receiving a temperature signal from a probe (thermocouple) that is inserted into the exhaust manifold. This constant monitoring of temperature changes alerts the driver to temperature problems well before indications would be received from a typical water temperature gauge. Equipment operators use pyrometers to diagnose engine problems and drive more efficiently, prolonging engine life and reducing fuel consumption.

The below is taken from an article I read and can better explain the benefits of this device better than I can.

The horsepower developed by the diesel engine depends on the amount of fuel being burned efficiently. Fuel and air must be delivered to the combustion chamber in the right quantity. It takes about 2,500 gallons of air for every gallon of fuel. Higher exhaust temperatures are the result of these basic causes:

1. Excessive fueling which is usually caused by a heavy foot or a faulty fuel system. Electronic engines can have problems which will show up first on the pyro. Note: The overfueling temperature increase is five degrees per pound of excess fuel burned.

2. A high intake ambient air temperature. Note: For every one degree increase in the external temperature there is a three degree increase in exhaust temperature.

3. Restricted air caused by: 1) Dirty air cleaners (intake air restriction). For every ten inches of vacuum there is a thirty degree increase in exhaust temperature. 2) High altitude. Note: There is a twenty five degree increase per 1,000 foot increase in altitude.

4. Headwinds/wind resistance

5. Lugging the engine, caused by improper throttle use or shifting.

Excessive heat is one enemy of the turbocharger. The maximum input temperature of a turbocharger is approximately 1,400°F. Temperatures above this will deteriorate the turbo housings, crack them and foul the compressor wheels. Intake and exhaust manifolds as well as cylinders will crack.

Excessive fueling will cause overspeeding or excessive revs resulting in high fuel consumption. Wasteful overspeeding and excessive heat damage the engine and turbo. Overspeeding will result in pistons striking and breaking valves. Prints of valves on the piston heads is an indication that the engine has been over revved. Injectors may stick as a result of overspeeding when a vehicle is going down grade and pushes the engine above governed speed. The governor shuts off all fuel to the injectors and deprives them of lubrication. Most diesels are protected against overspeeding by governors which should be correctly adjusted. Increasing the RPM's by changing the governor or allowing a vehicle to push the engine beyond its rated RPM will lead to engine damage. Incomplete fueling can also cause many problems. It is usually caused by restricted air supply. It results in a loss of horsepower and fuel is wasted. The unburned fuel will wash the lubricating oil off the cylinder walls. This can cause seized, burned or scored pistons and rings. Unburned fuel may also dilute and contaminate the lubricating oil. The injector cup spray holes may become carboned resulting in faulty injectors which help to create an even more unreliable fuel/air mixture.

Another situation to watch is when a hill is being crested. The engine must be cooled by shifting down and backing out of the throttle because the engine will cool down too fast. It is not good to let an engine cool down too much at the bottom of the hill before starting up again. When the engine is not being operated in the most efficient range, fuel is being wasted and engine damage will occur if the proper procedure is not followed.

The pyrometer is one of the first indicators of trouble in the engine. If an injector clogs, a cylinder or piston cracks, or an electronic injector has a problem, a pyrometer will note the change. The reason a pyrometer will call attention to engine problems faster is that a pyrometer measures the internal thermo-dynamics of an engine. The benefits are longer engine life, better fuel consumption, lower emissions and an indication of malfunctions before damage occurs.

Hot engine shutdown is a major cause of turbocharger damage. To prevent this, engine manufacturers recommend idling an engine for a period of time before it is shut down. This allows oil to flow through the bearings and cool them. The goal is to reduce bearing temperature to 300°F.

To reiterate, I have one installed and I think it is the best <1hour, $100 spent on my 2.8L TD Pajero.  So now the question comes down to…

Did you ever think about installing one?  If not what were your reasons not to?
Who actually has one installed?  How has this help or benefited you?
What are your thoughts and do you believe the addition of a pyrometer is worth the hassle?

I had a whole write up on my pyrometer install the same time I wrote the Redneck make-over (truck bed liner paint job) thread but the page timed out and I lost everything.  If you guys are interested I can put it together again.

Cheers

[Google]

[jimmyw]

I was going to put one in,stick it through were the EGR blanking plate is in the manifold,But I already have a load of gauges in the cab,it's like a spaceship.

It also ended up being De-tuned a bit when my pump was refurbed,so its relatively safe at the minute. If I were going back into the mad tuning on mine i'd probably put one in,though I'd probably turn the factory coolant temp gauge into the gauge for the EGT to save having even more junk around my dash.

The hot shutoff is a one i'd want to be careful for,I live at the top of a huge hill on a 100KMPH road,turn straight off the road after climbing onto my driveway,and turn off the engine,But I generally leave it running while I dig out my keys,phone and anything else that got thrown into the passenger footwell  

[BIGWOOD]

@jimmyw

My wife was another reason I installed the pyrometer.  Emma has a heavy foot.  She used to think that the Pajero needs to accelerate as fast as her VW GTI.  Once installed, I told her that this guage should never go above 1000 degrees F unless you're in a gun fight after a bank heist and speading away from the cops!

As for the hot shut off, you would be amazed at how long it takes for the engine to come down in temp to 300F.  I usually shut it down under 400F otherwise I'd be speading half my day in the cab especially after a highway run.

[Allrounder]

I have an EGT meter too.

I blanked the EGR valve, and on the plate put the pyrometer, bought at Auberins.
The main reason for was the past car, on which I blown the head gasket, on Expedition trip to Iran via Turkey. First I didn't know the reason but I probably just had too heavy foot on uphills on the decent altitude, which I noticed after installed one on Pajero. If I would have this before in Terracan, I would not have a blown gasket problem.

I personally think, that EGT is the right meter for all the changes in the engine, for me it is somehow a CPU, with not blocking the engine if needed. My fuel consumption also decreased with it,  I'm more careful to warm the engine before highway and so on...

I think EGT should be one of the main gauges in the engine, more important than the water temperature for example.

Best wishes!

Nejc

[BIGWOOD]

[Allrounder]

On Pajero it looks like this.



Auberins are known as one of the best multimeters. I know several people to use them for a long time, nobody had any problems, and still working properly. I decided this will be my first investment in any future cars.

Regards!
Nejc

[gregorypestelle]

Thanks for all the info something for me to consider  
Can never have too many gauges

Something for venn to spend his fuel savings on come on venn show us the way

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_21&products_id=139

[Adman]

An interesting read there, was going to fit some gauges in my mk2. An EGT gauge will now be included!

[gregorypestelle]

[gregorypestelle]

[gegs750k4]

[tin]

Noticed that some of you installed the EGT probe after removing the EGR.
Seems like a great place to put it, no need to drill and tap threads in the manifold!
Can anyone comment on what the exhaust temp difference is with the EGR as opposed to without?

[KGogarty]

I don't mean to dig out an old thread without reason, I think the information above is very useful and would be interested in adding to it.

I am going to fit one to my 2.8 along with a few other gauges. I intend to tune the engine in accordance with recommended max boost of 15 PSI and then use the EGT to tune the pump.

I was going to ask first. What kind of EGT's should I expect to see. I read above 400 is a good temperature before shut off. 1,000 is very high. What other "datum/reference" points are there?

If people wanted to share it and build up some reliable data together that'd be a big help to all

Example:

Temp     Significance
400        Switch Engine off
1000      High Limmit

[BIGWOOD]

@KGogarty - these are the temp ranges from my experience.  Hope it helps.


50-80F         Cold engine at start up

160-170F     As engine warms up to this temp range, the glow plugs shuts off and you can usually hear a click.  I usually wait for the click before I pull away

400-600F     Temperature range for go and stop driving around the city (50 - 80kph)

600-750F     Cruising on the highway (80 - 110kph)

>900F          You'll hit this temp under hard acceleration or driving up a hill.  The alarm on my Auberins' unit will activate at this temperature.  You'll here a click and LED light will illuminate.  The light will diminish once the temp goes under 800F.

[trekker]

The EGT sender unit needs to be in the gas flow. Setting this sender in a dead pocket won't reflect the true gas temp into the turbo.

The blanking plate looks convenient, but not the best.