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Pajero Buying Guide - Print and Take

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mark dale
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Age: 51
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 23:19    Post subject: Pajero Buying Guide - Print and Take Reply with quote

Pocuk member Belinea2010 has kindly compiled a list of things to look for when buying a Pajero.

this is as below :  It is also available as a downloadable document with tick boxes etc at the bottom, so you can print and take along when looking if you like.


Before Viewing The Vehicle (Do your home work)
Do a DVLA vehicle check (Its free)
Try to get a insurance quote - No point in viewing if you can't get insurance on the vehicle plus any registration irregularities should show up at this point. (If the car is stolen or cloned you will normally loose the car and the money you have paid out)
Consider a HPI report - This should show if the car has any outstanding finance on it.
Call the seller before you view and ask them not to start the vehicle for at least 4 hours prior to your viewing.  (If there are lots of viewers try & be the 1st of the day so vehicle does not have to be started)
Do not be afraid to call or email the seller with questions as its YOUR money at stake. (Be wary of any seller who does not give straight and frank answers - a honest seller should be happy to answer any questions and have nothing to hide)

Things To Take To The Viewing
A Torch / flashlight - To see into dark places under the car...
B Gloves - Your hands are going to get dirty poking about in the engine and under the car...
C Screw Driver - Handy to probe into holes in the chassis...
D Overalls - Your going to have to get down and dirty to check under the vehicle...
E A clean Rag - For cleaning the dipstick when you check the Engine Oil...
F A small Magnet - Use this to check for body filler (which isn't magnetic)...

Check The Vehicles Documents
1 V5c - Is it new RED version?, the blue one was phased out in the UK in 2012.
2 VIN numbers - Check they match, both on the vehicle and V5c.
3 M.O.T History - Look for advisories and check they were put right.
4 Most recent M.O.T. - Ideally it should have been fully serviced before going on sale & come with as long an M.O.T. as possible, look for any advisories. (Don't get lumbered with extra expense soon after getting your new vehicle home)
5 Service History - Check for regular Service periods, Oil, Air & Fuel Filter changes.
6 Cam / Timing Belt - Has it been changed (if applicable). Ideally they should be changed every 60,000 miles (approx 96,000 km). * Ask for proof and check it was done in a Mitsubishi approved way
7 HPI check - If seller claims its been done then ask to see the report. (make sure you get a copy to keep if you buy the vehicle)
8 Mileage - Is it warranted?
9 Previous owners - How many? (check that the amount the seller claims matches the documentation)
10 Alarm / immobiliser - If fitted, which type? (A thatcham approved will bring your insurance down)
11 Pitman Arm Recall - check if the Pitman Arm has been replaced (A free job by Mitsubishi on applicable models)
12 If vehicle is an import - It should have a MPH facia on the speed dial but it can still record Km on the odo.

General Inspection - Outside
13 Before you start - Lift the bonnet and feel that the engine is cold - more problems will show up when cold starting (excessive smoke, rattling, bad turn over). * If seller agreed not to start it & they have, wonder what seller is hiding?
14 Engine Bay - Does it look clean and well cared for?
15 Engine Oil - Check when COLD, Oil level must be between F and L marks (both over and under filling can cause engine damage), colour is most likely black but this is typical for diesel engines. * Be wary if oil looks brand new or clear unless service records show system was flushed as part of a "Recent" full service
16 Auto Box Gearbox Oil - Check it as this should always be clean.
17 Turbo - Check around the Turbo for excessive oil, A sign the turbo is going
18 Oil Filler - Check for white gunk, if yes it's a sign the head gasket gone and there is Oil in the water.
19 Body Work - Check Body for dents and scrapes, has it been well cared for?
20 Front end - Check the bonnet catches are not new, as these often get replaced after front end shunts.
21 General rust - Check for any obvious signs:
A Wheel Arches...
b Around Windscreen...
c Door Pillars...
d Bottom of Doors and Sills
22 Lights - Check all lights work: even a duff headlamp can be expensive!
a Headlights, both dipped & full...
b Sidelights...
c After market Spot lights...
d Indicators...
e Emergency Blinkers...
f Reversing Light...
g Fog Lights...
23 Check the headlamp washers are working. (you'll need the lights on for them to work - press the button on the end of the light stalk)
24 Locks - Check that ALL the door & boot locks work, both on central locking and independently.
25 Tow Bar - General Condition, do the electrics work? Ask what it has been used for.
26 Wheel Rims - Check their general condition.
27 Tyres:
a Check condition of tyre walls for wear or damage.
b Check the depth of tread - is it legal?
c Does the tread pattern match on all tyres?
d Do all tyres have even wear?
e Check all of the above points on the spare tyre too.
f Check spare tyre is same size as other tyres and is on a rim that will fit the vehicle.
* The point being you do not want to have to pay out for a new set of tyres only a month or so after the cost of buying the vehicle - factor this in as a bargaining point with the seller.

General Inspection - Inside
28 Interior seats and lining etc - is it dirty, stained or ripped (if yes can you live with it?)
29 Dash:
a Check everything works as it should.
b All warning lights light and turn off (ABS / Oil lights/ 4wd) and so on.
30 Air Con - Check it works, may need to be regassed.
31 Radio - Check it works. (may need an expander for the radio if vehicle is an import)
32 SatNav - Check it works.
33 CD Player - Check it works. (expensive to repair)
34 Gadgets - Check they work. (Compass and so on)
35 Inclinometer - Check that is floats freely. (there should be no air-bubble in it)
36 Inside lights - Check they work.
37 Heated seats - Check they work. (if applicable)
38 Seatbelts:
a Do they run freely or stick?
b Do they actually operate correctly?
39 Sun Roof - Check it opens fully and closes correctly without jamming.
40 Mitsubishi tool kit - Check it's all there. (expensive to replace)
41 Rear Seat Bracket - If you are looking over a Long Wheel base have a look under the carpet - there is a bracket that the seat behind the passenger is locked onto. About four inches behind this check for rust. It's not structural but can be quite damaging. * To see the full extent of the damage you will have to remove the plastic panel inside.

Deep Inspection
Body Work
42 Look more carefully for signs of rust, corrosion, paint bubbling and dents and scratches:
a Around Windshield...
b Front of the car...
c Lower parts of doors...
d Lower rear section from end of the vehicle...
e Boot door...
f Boot sills...
g Wheel Arches - especially behind the rear wheels...
* If you suspect any parts are repaired with body filler - check with a magnet as such repairs will not be magnetic.

Under The Car - In General
43 Overall there may be light corrosion visable but it should not be excessive.
44 Gearbox - Might be lightly oiled, this is normal but an obvious leak is a big no no.
45 Rear Axle - same as above.
46 Brake Fluid Tubes - Check their condition.
47 Bell Housing - Check the underside of the Bell Housing for oil which would relate to rear crank oil seal leak. A VERY common part to fail.
48 Exhaust - Check the state of the Exhaust, look for holes, corrosion and loose fittings/connections.

49 Look for corrosion, both on the outside & inside structures and with torch / flashlight as far as you can see inside the chassis. (use ventilation holes as looking points)
50 Check especially behind the rear wheels.
51 Look for bends, warping or dents - if vehicle was used off road it could have been abused and the Chassis damaged. If yes walk away.
52 Make sure that car's typrcode can be seen , code is located at hull beam at rear right side behind rear wheel. Most likely this is under rust, use steel brush to clean it and make it visible to check.

Axles, Joints, Bearings Etc..
53 Wheel bearings - No vertical or horizontal loose movement is allowed, none. Also no "squeaky" sounds accepted. (Those are sure signs that the bearing is broken and need replacing. Also a broken bearing is serious risk in traffic & loss of control of vehicle is certain.)
54 Ball joints, driving stabilisers and their mountings - These must be firm and in good condition, these also affect to handling and driving, check these also very carefully.
55 Spring Mounting Points  - Check these are in good condition. Most likely you will find corrosion here and while slight corrosion is normal, the metal underneath must be in good firm condition. (poke it with a screwdriver)
56 Shock Absorbers Mounting - Check their condition. (These also affect driving stability and are a matter of security, don't overlook these)
57 Ball Joints - Check these are not loose or dry of grease, if they are loose then they are in need of replacing. Ball joints are grease-able and if greasing has been ignored then joints will be worn out quicker.
58 Grease Points - There are five greasing points to check: * These grease points are meant to greased by the owner and/or at a service a minimum two times a year.
a Two upper steering joints - L and R side...
b Two lower steering joints - L and R side...
c Steering arms greasing joint...
59 Check that the front drive axle protective rubbers are not broken, if they are then there is a big risk that front drive shafts will be damaged because sand, or any dirt will get in.

Drive shafts
60 Check that cross joints are tight and well greased. If they are loose or broke then they will need replacing.
61 Check The Grease Points - There are grease points on the drive shafts and these are meant to be greased a minimum two times a year.
62 The Drive shaft can have slight movement maybe 1/16 parts of a turn, this is approx. 22 degrees. * This is measured when the wheels are on the ground, the gears in neutral and by manually turning the drive shaft.

63 They should work perfectly and nothing less is acceptable.
64 Look the condition of brake pads and discs, if they are badly worn they will need to be replaced.
65 Rear discs must not be rusty, if they are then the rear brake saddles are not in good condition.
66 Hand Brake - You can best test the Handbrake during the test drive later.

67 Batteries and All Belts  - Before starting the engine, Test that all belts are tight and batteries are well mounted and that nothing is loose or broken.
68 Oil, Air & Fuel Filters - Ask the seller when these were changed (The service record may show this), then check those yourself. (Air filter might be some dusty but not too much or completely worn out)
69 Start the engine and listen to how it sounds at:
a Cold start - listen for lamping or mis-firing...
b Idle run...
c Normal driving revs...
d Does the Engine reach max' revs...
e Does it start easy - No "alarming" extra noises allowed or unsteady running...
* 4. cyl. long stroke diesel sounds bit hard, but still noise must be steady diesel sound.
* V6 gasoline engine sounds like steady humming, like nest of bees & engine must run without vibrations.
70 Turn off engine - No after running is allowed when turning any engine off. All extra ticking, metallic noises, clicks or those kind is signal that something is wrong, if you heard any those sounds, forget the car and leave.
71 Turbo must not leak oil, also make sure that over boost valve and intake manifolds over boost valve works properly. If turbo leaks oil it's broken.

Gears and Gearboxes (Manual transmission only)
72 With the engine stopped - Press clutch down and release it. Now go through gears 1 to 5 one after each other. All gears must select without any problems.
73 Reverse gear must not select if trying to connect it straight from any forward gears, Reverse will connect only when first letting gear selector to go to neutral. Also Reverse should select from neutral without problems.
74 Test the Transfer gear next. It has 3 modes which should all select smoothly (2H - normal rear-wheel driving mode, 4H - normal 4-wheel driving mode, 4L - low range driving mode).
* Rear axle has lock which can be used only when 4L is connected.

Gears and Gearboxes (Automatic transmission only)
75 With the engine stopped - Make sure that each drive position selects smoothly.
76 Test the Transfer gear next. It has 3 modes which should all select smoothly. (2H - normal rear-wheel driving mode, 4H - normal 4-wheel driving mode, 4L - low range driving mode)
* Rear axle has lock which can be used only when 4L is connected.

The Test Drive
77 As you drive, listen for any strange noise, rattles, pops and clicks.
78 Accelerate under power and look in rear mirror for excessive smoke. (Any smoke should be white, any other colour walk away)

Gears and Gearboxes (Manual transmission only)
79 Test all driving modes and that rear axle lock is operational and then Test 4-wheel drive modes on non gripping surface, snowy, muddy or icy field. * Differences on 4-wheel drives comes out more easily when testing on non grip surfaces.
80 During test drive no alarming noises must be heard and both gearbox and transfer box operation must be smooth and easy.
81 Over Drive - Check this works correctly, (if fitted)

Gears and Gearboxes (Automatic transmission only)
82 Gear selection should be smooth and engine revs should not jump in-between gears (Test by slow acceleration and then again with hard acceleration)
* If the RPM does rise then the autobox is probably knackered.

83 Check the brakes work as expected under normal driving conditions.
84 Listen for squeaks, grinding or other noises.

Various Tests (Perform at your own risk)
Handbrake Holding Test
1 Drive vehicle to a sharp-ish hill or slope, park safely and select neutral gear.
2 Push on the brakes and apply the hand brake.
3 Take your foot off the brakes and vehicle should stay in place.
* If not, then handbrake is not working ok.

Hand Brake / Clutch Combined Test
1 Park safely on level ground and apply the hand brake.
2 Select 1st gear or drive and try and move off smoothly with normal revs.
* If the vehicle drives away - the handbrake is faulty.
* If it stays still but the engine does NOT stall - the clutch is faulty.

Warped Brake Discs / Pads Test
1 When driving lightly apply the brakes, not enough to slow vehicle, and look and feel for any sensation of pumping.

Wheel Bearings Test
1 Drive at a safe speed and swerve from side to side fairly sharply (losing control is not recommended)
* If there is noise from the wheels as the vehicle leans in the corners, then a wheel bearing may be on the way out.

Exhaust Blowing Test
1 Block the exhaust while the engine is running - any leaks may be easier to see or hear.

Automatic Gearbox Torque Converter Stall Test
1 Apply park brake - after testing that it works correctly.
2 Select Drive.
3 Apply the accelerator (not too harshly, just a steady application).
4 Check that the RPM rises then stabilises at a mid point - no more than half RPM is suggested. If the engine revs higher than this, the torque converter is in a poor state: Walk away.

PLEASE NOTE: ALL credit for the advice and suggestions in this checklist should go to the original forum posters. All that I have done is to compile it from the various posts into a (hopefully) semi-coherent list primarily for my own use but if any members find it useful then it's a job well done.

Many Thanks to All contributors

Mark " likes lists " Dale
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 23:19    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is so useful. Thanks for taking the time to put together
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark dale helpful as usual ! THX good job done!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 17:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

This guide is superb. My only question is that is there anything you should be specifically looking for that tends to go on Shoguns?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 18:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good guide but people must remember that 15 - 20 year old cars are still coming up for sale. I did a fraction of what's on the list but still came away with a cracking Shogun. I urge every potential buy to study the list but don't expect too much....
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 15:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Downloaded, thanks!
I'll not expect too much from a £2000 15 year old truck, but it'll help non the less!
Very handy.
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