The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

Tomer David · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:05 Post subject: Rust protection - Waxoyl ?

Does anyone has some experience with Waxoyl Rust/Corrosion coating on MK4 ? interesting for using it on 2007 SWB with some corrosion on the front suspension.

Google · Sponsor

davembp · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:54 Post subject:

Under side of my motor is wax oiled, from what I've seen the later models suffer from rust (only what I've seen!!!) any protection is a good idea.

peteinchad · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 12:27 Post subject:

We have been having a loooong discussion about it recently Here

I have used WaxOyl in the past but it's not easy to apply unless you heat it up and/or thin it with white spirit. It also tends to "skin" over and dry out allowing water to creep underneath it and continue to cause rust.

- I'm just waiting for the WaxOyl enthusiasts to shoot me down now Confused

Read the thread - it should answer all your questions - I use Dinitrol.

BenKenobi · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 19:26 Post subject:

I've used all kinds of stuff over the years but I've yet to find anything better than this stuff >> Dynax S50

Waxoyl is horrid to apply, to apply Waxoyl successfully you need high pressure and pro gear plus the 'real' Waxoyl doesn't seem to be readily available to the public (the stuff you buy in Hlafords aint the same. Dinitrol is OK but I've not used it in anger beyond some test samples I got.

With stuff like POR-15 you need to commit to half a dozen process's each and every one of which must be done thoroughly or the next is a waste of time (and none of them get inside boxs's etc)

peteinchad · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 19:38 Post subject:

I did the underside of mine last summer with dinitrol.

The cavity wax is easy to apply - I got it in aerosols with a long spray nozzle and it definitely covers all inside the box sections. How well it stops rust I don't know because it's not been on for a year yet.

I did the rest of the underside with Dinitrol underbody wax after cleaning it down as best I could to bare metal. After less than a year it seems to have worn off the outer sides of the main chassis rails and surface rust is showing. I don't think the underbody wax is tough enough for areas that get a lot of spray on them.

Will remove it this summer and use the Dinitrol stone chip on the affected areas and see how that works.

Trouble is - stopping rust once it gets a hold is impossible - short of hot-dip galvanising everything.

BenKenobi · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 19:46 Post subject:

I'll be re 'Dynax'ing mine next year - not finished the job yet - done from A Pillar back, Sills, Chassis and Subframe stripping all old gunk, treating, painting, Dynaxing - including in all cavities - all taking longer than expected due to work and weather .... to be honest not sure why I'm bothering can't see anyone paying the 8.5k I'd want for the car even if I don't do it.

peteinchad · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 21:21 Post subject:

You're lucky your car is worth that much - mines a 20 year old Mk2 so the cost of the Dinitrol last summer was 10% of the value of the truck!

- and a month of my life laid on my drive getting completely filthy to the point that she wouldn't let me go into the house unless I stripped off on the patio.

Not sure if any car is worth it really - but it doesn't stop us trying to keep them in good condition.

I think that every summer is going to involve at least some time with the anti rust stuff - it's not a "do once and Forget it" type of thing.

BenKenobi · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 21:43 Post subject:

It's only worth that because

a) Less than 60,000 miles,
b) New suspension all round - incl wishbones, bushes, bolts
c) New wheel bearings and hubs all round
d) New brake discs etc all round
e) Serviced and functional AC
f) New brake pipes all round
g) New 'mk4' filler neck & through chassis assembly
h) Fuel tank fully refurbished and treated
i) Thorough de-rust, re-paint and treatment
j) 4 new Michelin Latitude Cross
k) brand new towbar with chrome bumper shield and genuine Mistubishi electrics

and a host of other 'stuff' i.e. timing chain tensioner / guide, stainless 'decat' exhaust, set of refurbed de-rusted and treated side steps when I actually get chance to refurb and fit them, new ABS / Speed sensors all round, new drive shafts at the front, new battery ..... the list goes on ... realistically with whats been spent I should ask 10k for it, which I won't get so it makes some sense to try and stop it falling apart.

And as you hint at - keeping the rust at bay isn't a fit and forget task.

geodrome · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 22:19 Post subject:

From that list you will have a long lasting relationship with her.

peteinchad · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 5:34 Post subject:

To be honest - my truck is worth £2000 tops so any money I spend is never going to come back if I ever sell it.

I don't think many of us do stuff to these trucks without knowing we are spending more than we should on them. But lots of us do it because it is a hobby thing and we enjoy working on them so the money doesn't come in to it.

I wasn't questioning how much your truck is worth by the way - I was just saying you are lucky to have a car that is worth that amount - I have never had a car that is that valuable! I have always had cheap cars.

With the amount of work you have done on it I would assume that you are going to keep it a long time so keeping on top of the rust makes sense. Same with me - I will only get rid of it when it gets unrepairable.

geodrome · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:13 Post subject:

I paid £8k in 2000 for my Pajero sold it for £850 eleven years later. In that time I put on a used rear caliper, sunroof seal, two turbos, set of refurb injectors, a head, pump seal, water pump and 4 KYB dampers, the rest was services, ware and tyres. All done my self too. Very Happy

and a visit to Phoenix to tune the pump after the seal was done.
So you can see why I THOUGHT my mk3 was a good buy. Shocked

peteinchad · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 12:52 Post subject:

My Mk2 is turning into a mission - i want it as right as I can get it but it seems a never ending job.

But what else would I do with my time and money Smile

assassin · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 13:23 Post subject:

You can just fire old engine oil into body cavities every oil change, just as good as Waxoyl or Dinitrol as you do it so often.

Do not do this if you park on the road though, it drains back out and you need to catch what comes out by standing it for several hours with drip trays to catch what drains, so unless you have somewhere to stand it I wouldn't recommend it, if you do have somewhere to stand it for several hours then go for it.

peteinchad · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 13:30 Post subject:

Tomer David · Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 1:05 Post subject:

Thanks guys, but I did not mean to do it by myself but to pay waxoyl agent to do this. my MK4 worth 12K with 55K miles so it worth doing such a treatment especially that I can see some corrosion in the front suspension, what do you think ?

I also have minor rust in the actual sunroof frame but I am afraid to handle it with some hammerite as I need to move the seal and I am afraid to ruin it. any idea about a good sunroofs expert that can have a look ?