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Testing a new temp gauge sender

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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 14:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to know what everything is doing so I've got:

Oil Temperature, Boost and Oil Pressure in the pod at the top of the dashboard (I dumped the original stuff that was in the pod)



and these below the radio:

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helijohn
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 15:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
I like to know what everything is doing so I've got:

Oil Temperature, Boost and Oil Pressure in the pod at the top of the dashboard (I dumped the original stuff that was in the pod)


Nice Cool  but you have the room - my Junior too has a pod but I like the stuff in it.  So I'll be fitting a two dial pod somewhere else. Wink Not much room anywhere.  I need a roof pod. Smile
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 15:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something to think about.

I held the old sender to the side of a mug with a crocodile clamp and poured boiling water into the cup till it covered the sensor's probe.  The croc. clip was wired to the battery -ve via another croc. clip.  I made up a short extension lead to go from the wiring loom to the old sensor (now at the cup).  Now I could put the cup anywhere to make pouring scalding hot water easier. Turned on the ignition and poured.  The gauge went up to halfway (basically what I would call normal).  So 90 to 100°C water is about right for a normal reading bearing in mind the cup is not a sealed pressurised container and the water in the cup was cooling every millisecond.  I would love to test it at 120° or 140°.

All this is telling me the water in the system is not getting hot enough.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 16:14    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you try the jump lead from the body of the sender to the battery -ve?
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 16:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
Did you try the jump lead from the body of the sender to the battery -ve?


Yes though the motor was cold when I did it  and it has the new sender installed which shows completely down on the gauge when cold. When driven for 15 mins the gauge goes to a cold reading which is the bottom mark.   I'll do the earth test after a run when it is all nicely warmed up.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 17:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason I ask is that after spending months thinking that my engine was running cold I worked out that it is very difficult for that to happen.

Even without a thermostat it will eventually get quite hot.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 18:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
The reason I ask is that after spending months thinking that my engine was running cold I worked out that it is very difficult for that to happen.

Even without a thermostat it will eventually get quite hot.


True, but if it is going to warm up fully it is taking its time. Crying or Very sad

Having a senior moment here but I wondered if I could run two gauges from one sender.  Piggy back the spade connector but I can't think how the theoretical electrics would work.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 18:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think two gauge on one sensor won't be accurate as each gauge will measure the resistance of the sender and the other gauge.

You could isolate each gauge from the other using diodes - but then you will get a voltage drop across each diode.

Your idea of finding an aftermarket gauge with a sender that will fit the threads of the original sender hole may be worth trying.

I think that the thread is 1/4NPT on the big trucks.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 19:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
Your idea of finding an aftermarket gauge with a sender that will fit the threads of the original sender hole may be worth trying.

I think that the thread is 1/4NPT on the big trucks.


Got a cheapie coming from China so I will compare when it arrives.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 19:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get loads of stuff from China - perfectly good stuff mostly.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 20:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
I get loads of stuff from China - perfectly good stuff mostly.


Ditto unless I am in a hurry. Wink
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 4:27    Post subject: Reply with quote

The three week wait can be a pain.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 9:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
Did you try the jump lead from the body of the sender to the battery -ve?


Did it today.  The needle was at the bottom mark and it made no difference.  Had it worked I feel the needle would have gone to halfway.  

I still feel the engine is overcooled or certainly it is in the first 15 minutes.  All my Japanese motors warm up quickly - like in minutes.   I suppose I could run the car around for 30 mins in traffic but hey, not today.  The viscous fan is declutched so that is not particularly causing a problem though an electric fan might be a good idea generally.  However, my experience with fitting electric fans to cars that have had a permanent windmill is that the radiators don't like it and, to be sure, I prefer a car that is overcooled to overhot.
I am hoping I can couple the Chinese gauge to the OE sender and get a result.  30 days wait is no worry as this is not a problem I am desperate about.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 10:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just compare the resistances of the two senders - you may be lucky that they are similar.
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helijohn
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 11:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

peteinchad wrote:
Just compare the resistances of the two senders - you may be lucky that they are similar.


Somehow I think they might be.  No good though it the coolant is not reaching 80°+
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