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The Gen 4 known as 'Big Paj'

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NJV6
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Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 22:42    Post subject: The Gen 4 known as 'Big Paj' Reply with quote

11 years ago I bought a 1994 SWB 3.5 Manual and have used it for extensive 4WDing and touring in NZ. It has been a great toy except pretty expensive to run! I have been looking for a diesel one and have had a 96 & 99 model but only kept them for a few months. The 96 one was a 2.8 with the electronic fuel pump & 140hp, it went real good.

A gen 3 manual 3.2 came up for sale and we tried to buy it, but missed out and any others we saw were getting high in km, until a 2011 with 67000km came up for sale. So I hopped on the plane and drove it 1500km home.

It is a GLX spec in white.

Impressions having come from a NJ lifted on 33's was excellent. Steering feels amazing and is worlds apart. Performance from the 3.2 is crazy on the open road. It is not quick through the gears lets be honest, and the gearbox is slow and you notice the turbo lag but the grunt when in gear is great. Its quieter from engine noise but probably more road noise due to no chassis. I got 1000km from the tank just as the fuel light came on so was well chuffed and put 77 litres in.

Other things in noticed on the drive home,
Brake rotors need a skim
Driveline clonk when off/on with the power
Turbo lag between gears is bad
No low RPM grunt
Engine revs don't instantly drop changing gear, need to move quite slowly

Most of the issues I have with it are to do with Euro 5 emissions, the lack of off boost and low rpm grunt etc, it is tuned that way. One day I will chip it, but Europe is not buying enough of the high quality fine lamb I am producing so money is a bit of an issue. (Go and get buying NZ lamb!!!)

The idea is that it will be mostly a shiny road tourer, towing the pop top http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=160468&highlight= and the old NJ will be for my more challenging 4WDing. I also have a cutdown NH model with coiled front end and a V8.

1st mod was to stop the seat belt chime whenever the key is on! If only all mods were this simple.

They really do look like a toy compared to a Gen 2, on a gen 2 everything underneath is tucked up out of the way but the gen 4 just looks a bit fragile, and low to the ground, however they are very popular in Australia so they must be up to the task.





The 2nd thing I did was get a decent set of tyres, 265/65R17 BFG KO2's. Done about 1000 km on them, impressions - firmer ride, a bit more harsh but I knew it would be, a trade off for a strong tyre. Quiet enough, a bit more noisy that the HT's and more noise that a 4WD with a rubber mounted chassis.



I need to change my signature
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 22:42    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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Chummers
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 22:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prefer your MK2 Smile

like you have already said, the MK4 IS lower Sad
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NJV6
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 1st trip showed up alot of noise from the dashboard and rear door. Seems this is normal from reading the OZ forums.

When I started pulling the dash apart I found an entire Nokia car mobile phone kit tucked in behind with all the wires cut to to anything that was mounted in the interior, none of it screwed down so that was all rattling away too.

So I got to work pulling the dash apart and doing some cable tie mods.


You attach a couple of cable ties to the top of the underside of the dashboard on both driver and passenger side and effectively pull 'down' the top of the dashboard a few mm and stops alot of the shake. Big ups for the South Africian and Oz guys coming up with this ingenius plan. Pajero Australia Forum


These two screws needed a tighten up


This here rattled alot, and its wiring got zip tied


and all the heater ducting got zip tied until they didn't move at all, (prob 10 or so ties). Added the cable ties as per the cable tie dashboard thread.

Made a bracket up for the instrument cluster as it seemed to have the most movement out of all the dash, and it is now solid.


Removed the rear door trim to see what the racket going on in there is, the high stop light was not screwed in, just hanging in place floating around in the plastic cavity.

The factory MM towbar ECU behind the right rear trim was also banging away, it is now screwed to the body.
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titan
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 23:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

can wait to see more, i have a SWB 2007 and love it, very capable off road but lack of shelf mods means not much i can do over here.

keep up the good work
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NJV6
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to keep an eye on the engine parameters and the best way is to read the factory computer! With the modern on board diagnostics it makes it easy to do this, I bought an Ultragauge MX online and simply plugged it in. It is fully customisable to suit what you want, I have it displaying Engine water temp, KM/h, RPM, boost psi, air inlet temp and EGR % but there are about 50 things it can display.

It saves having a bulky aftermarket dash pod and is simply plug and play. For a matter of interest, the engine runs at 87-89 degrees, boost is max 18, air inlet temps can get really high meaning the intercooler is not really keeping up and the EGR is almost always slowly killing the engine! The factory gauge sits at middle from 73 degrees right up to 98 which is the highest I have seen it when climbing off road, so they really cannot be trusted to much. The gauge starts to move off 0 at about 60 degrees.



And we put it to work too  Very Happy  

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NJV6
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 9:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the Exhaust Gas Recirculation stopped today with this little gizmo


Very simply it plugs into the factory loom at the airbox and it tells the EGR controller it is less than 10 degrees outside so that means the EGR valve will not open. If you just block them the computer may go into limp mode as there is a throttle butterfly that on a light throttle closes a bit to draw more air through the EGR valve. if the valve is blocked, and this buttlerfly closes then thats when it will throw a code. The ultragauge shown on the previous post means I can read and clear code should they ever show up.
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NJV6
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 22:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another picture of the EGR gismo when fitted. Takes 2 minutes to fit.
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NJV6
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 23:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that I had the EGR disabled, it was time to attack the inlet manifold, well known for being an issue on later model Mitsi motors.

Off it came, bit of a job really, injector lines and common rail have to come off but you end up with this




You can see it is pretty bad but not nearly as bad as some, the butterfly valves still work in there but come no where close to closing and the flow is just generally restricted. The head ports were bad too but it is pretty difficult to get them clean without taking the head off, I scraped as good as I could with compressed air. I took the tappet cover off to make sure the valves were fully closed.


Inlet manifold after scraping and pressure washing, nice and clear of any crud.


Injector lines are supposed to be replaced after 5 times removed, so maybe next time I will. I imagine they have been off close to 5 times, tappet adjustment, cam chain tensioner factory recall and now this time.
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NJV6
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Age: 102
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 23:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

And to think EGR is for the good of the environment, what a load of bollocks.
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NJV6
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2016 9:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for a snorkel for piece of mind, I hate the feeling of a splash of water over the bonnet without a snorkel.

I bought a Safari Snorkel as I had used them before and liked how well they fit, Yes they are dearer than a Chinese rip off but the kit has absolutely everything in it, right down to the zip ties.

Mark twice, cut once... I love this part......



Indicator needs relocating


Airbox needs moving rearward


You loose the great big window washer tank and it gets replaced by this little one


Airbox moved back to fit ducting along the front


More holes with a touch of primer to prevent rust


The kit comes with a piece to fill old indicator hole


Final fitment


This was a technical fit compared to any I have done before with alot of bits to do. I took my time, did it in an easy day. Pity about the silly Mitsi clips holing the inner guard in place, zip ties it is now!
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NJV6
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had been wanting to fit a switch to disable the Traction control as you cannot disable it and it can be a nuisance in certain situations. With help from wiring diagrams and the oz Pajero forum I tackled it.

SO Dash apart (again) to get to the ECU, simply find the right wire (grey one!) and cut it and put a switch in it which goes to earth so when you activate the switch it earths the ecu pin and turns off ABS, TC & ASC. The other end of the wire that you cut just gets left to flap in the breeze as it is not used on vehicles without a Rear Diff Lock.



Cut the Grey wire


Start soldering




Re wrap loom and plug in and done.


I just put a simple two pole on/off switch next to the ASC switch - the wire I soldered to one side of the switch and the other side to a suitable bolt as an earth.

Switch off

Switch on
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NJV6
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Age: 102
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other day i also put in a CB/UHF radio. It does the 27 & 477 MHZ in the one unit. There is a suitable place in the dash but absolutely nothing behind it for a mount so I had to make a mount that bolts to the main dashboard beam. Anyway, happy with the result.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 1:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dual Battery tray

I didn't really like the look of anything that you could buy except the ARB one and it was too expensive so I made my own.
The original fiberglass tray was cracked and broken at the tie down point so I binned it


New tray


Drilled the old water overflow bottle mount off and welded it to the new tray & paint



In position


2nd battery tray needs to be slightly higher to clear air con lines and slightly sideways to clear fuel filter



Yes it looks industrial  Laughing

Secondary 3 micron fuel filter fitted up into place as well and just enough room left to fit the Voltage Sensitive Relay.


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NJV6
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 9:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

A while ago the new springs turned up, Lovells from Australia and Bilsteins. I was a bit nervous with how it would ride as they are bloody heavy springs



Before


Old vs New


Rear ones in


Fronts assembled (only bit I couldn't do)


Front in


Finished product




It has settled from that 90mm lift to about 50mm which was the aim. The rear wheel alignment with the IRS was miles out.

I needn't have worried about the ride quality, its better on the road and off it. No where near as pleasant as the old little Paj off road but better on road. They are heavy duty fronts and standard duty rears.
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venn105
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 22:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great read there Cool , nice truck and love the tweaks done....................damn i miss all this Crying or Very sad

Look forward to future developments  Very Happy
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