View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
helijohn LifeTime Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 2612 Location: Seaside resort
|
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 22:40 Post subject: Electric fan suggestions |
|
|
My little Paj runs so cold that I want to fit an electric fan. It has a fan at the front for the aircon so I fancy decommissioning the aircon and using the fan for engine temp regulation. Has anyone done something like this?
FAN CLICK ME |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Google Sponsor
|
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 22:40 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Roadrunner2110 ******
Joined: 08 Dec 2010 Posts: 2471
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 0:42 Post subject: |
|
|
There must be a reason it's running cold, possibly no thermostat or stuck open, faulty gauge/sender, blocked heater matrix giving the impression of it running cold. There are many reasons.
As for decommissioning the A/C and using that fan, I certainly wouldn't recomment it IMO as that fan is not designed for cooling anything apart from the heat generated by the A/C.
IMO I would find why it's running cold or appears to be running cold first. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peteinchad LifeTime Member
Joined: 07 Jan 2013 Posts: 15079 Location: UK
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 5:39 Post subject: |
|
|
I have wired my air con fan so I can switch it on manually - it doesn't noticeably add any extra cooling.. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
helijohn LifeTime Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 2612 Location: Seaside resort
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 10:21 Post subject: |
|
|
Roadrunner2110 wrote: |
There must be a reason it's running cold, possibly no thermostat or stuck open, faulty gauge/sender, blocked heater matrix giving the impression of it running cold. |
Seems like the AC fan idea is a non starter then.
On a hot summer's day after a few miles the temp will reach (on the gauge) normal working temperature so I am really looking for a way to get a faster warm up. Definitely lower in winter.
Gauge and sender fully investigated.
I think there is a possibility that the thermostat may not be as it could be - though it seems to hold the coolant back until the engine gets warmed up. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
The procrastinator ******
Age: 109 Zodiac: Joined: 04 Oct 2011 Posts: 1422 Location: England
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 12:39 Post subject: |
|
|
peteinchad wrote: |
I have wired my air con fan so I can switch it on manually |
There's no stopping you Pete! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
helijohn LifeTime Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 2612 Location: Seaside resort
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 12:54 Post subject: |
|
|
peteinchad wrote: |
I have wired my air con fan so I can switch it on manually - it doesn't noticeably add any extra cooling.. |
The big question is - and I know Paj senior is a bit bigger - if you took off the main fan would the AC fan cope? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KEVINBUK ******
Age: 67 Zodiac: Joined: 05 Nov 2004 Posts: 2001 Location: SW Northumberland
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
peteinchad LifeTime Member
Joined: 07 Jan 2013 Posts: 15079 Location: UK
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 13:37 Post subject: |
|
|
The procrastinator wrote: |
peteinchad wrote: |
I have wired my air con fan so I can switch it on manually |
There's no stopping you Pete! |
It was only one wire, a relay and a switch - so a quick and easy job
helijohn wrote: |
peteinchad wrote: |
I have wired my air con fan so I can switch it on manually - it doesn't noticeably add any extra cooling.. |
The big question is - and I know Paj senior is a bit bigger - if you took off the main fan would the AC fan cope? |
Not on mine - it doesn't lower my engine temperature more than 1oC when I switch it on.
In fact I've just ordered a new viscous coupling for my main fan as I think mine isn't working properly - and I have had the aircon fan switched on quite a bit in traffic. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
helijohn LifeTime Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 2612 Location: Seaside resort
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 18:47 Post subject: |
|
|
peteinchad wrote: |
In fact I've just ordered a new viscous coupling for my main fan as I think mine isn't working properly - |
I would defo have gone electric in your shoes. My viscous fan maybe is too good but is does freewheel when cold............. enough to make me think it is OK.
I have fitted leccy fans before but never really like them behind the rad. I appreciate the space released when the OE fan is out of there but as you can see from the pic there is not much room up front.
I could take the AC out altogether and then with the fan junked there would be good room for a universal fan. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peteinchad LifeTime Member
Joined: 07 Jan 2013 Posts: 15079 Location: UK
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 19:13 Post subject: |
|
|
helijohn wrote: |
I would defo have gone electric in your shoes. |
I think a viscous gives more airflow - my engine temperature is fine when moving but it incrases by 5 - 10oC when standing in traffic. Mine locks when hot but I think it locks at too high a temperature.
Have you got an extra temperature gauge on yours - my OEM gauge was reading very low and I thought my engine was running cold - it turned out to be the sensor on the engine that needed replacing and the gauge now reads half-way. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
helijohn LifeTime Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 2612 Location: Seaside resort
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 19:30 Post subject: |
|
|
peteinchad wrote: |
I think a viscous gives more airflow....Have you got an extra temperature gauge on yours |
I think we did a thread on this Pete somewhere but you are referring to the temp sender are you not?
I am inclined to agree that the blow of air with a viscous fan like in traffic is slightly preferable but it should
be possible to get a leccy one or even a pair to achieve that amount of blast. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peteinchad LifeTime Member
Joined: 07 Jan 2013 Posts: 15079 Location: UK
|
Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 19:41 Post subject: |
|
|
The standard gauges are not very accurate - but if yours is reading low because of a duff sender then it may be making you think that your engine is running too cold. That is what I thought with mine so I fitted an extra digital temperature gauge to check.
My temperature was normal (except in traffic jams) on the new gauge so I replaced the sender for the stock gauge and it now reads normal. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
assassin ********
Age: 64 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: Wherever I Wander To -- Midlands
|
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 3:54 Post subject: |
|
|
Avoid electric fans, they fit viscous for a reason and that is they are the best fan for the job.
Viscous have a bi-metal spring which opens a valve in relation to temperature so they are proportional, in simple terms as the engine temperature rises the viscous bi-metal spring opens more to allow the fan to speed up, and it takes the underbonnet temperature into account to control the heat from exhaust manifolds and exhausts as well as the 20% of heat radiated from the engine block and the radiator. Being proportional also means reacts to the temperature progressively to prevent the temperature becoming excessive.
Electric fans work differently, they are simply on/off units and this causes problems, they only work off coolant temperature and give a fixed airflow meaning they are slow to react and can provide excessive cooling leading to thermal shock of major engine components which in simple terms means the engine gets overheated before they kick in, and when they do they can take so much heat out so quickly they can damage components.
Heat soak for beginners, what is heat soak? in simple terms you are travelling down the motorway with Cyril the cruise control on set at 70 MPH, your engine speed is consistent, your engine load is fairly consistent, and your air flow is fairly consistent; then it happens, the dreaded disco brake lights from the vehicles in front leading to a traffic jam. You remove the engine load, you remove the airflow which until now were all proportional and have now become disproportionate, you lose the engine load and the 70 MPH airflow but the heat remains.
Instead of having all that airflow you haven't but you still have the heat which has to be dissipated with no airflow and this is heat soak. What happens is this heat rises under the bonnet and collects.
Understand how airflow works, all underbonnet airflow has a direction and this is for good reason, all major components are sited in this airflow so it has a defined path to take and this is through all the radiators and onto the front of the engine, then down the sides of the engine to cool the turbo, alternator, exhaust manifold, the front (hottest) part of the exhaust, then it goes out under the vehicle to cool the exhaust.
With a viscous coupling it will increase its speed proportionally as soon as the temperature begins to rise and will continue to increase speed to the point where it reaches the required amount of airflow to stabilise the underbonnet temperature and this is called soft airflow as it does it gently. All engines have something called MTHS which stands for maximum thermal heat soak which is the maximum temperature the engine should reach under such circumstances and with a progressive fan operation from the viscous it wont reach this temperature and it will provide and maintain a constant temperature.
With an electric fan using coolant and not conduction and ambient underbonnet temperature you create more problems, first the heat will rise much more and rely solely on the water to cool it instead of a viscous fan which will be cooling and this needs time to travel around the engine to the thermostat, which in turn needs time to open and remember instead of doing about 2000RPM your engine is idling at around 750 RPM which means about one third of the speed which means water pump speed is massively decreased and takes much longer to pump overheating water round to the radiator and its thermo switch to operate the electric fans. When the electric fans kick in they run at massive speeds and give a huge airflow to a much hotter engine which has seriously exceeded its MTHS meaning you are in danger of permanent damage to your engine from overheating anyway, and it actually overcools it, this damages head gaskets, turbochargers, and the internals of the engine from thermal shock as overcooled water runs back to an overheating engine. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
The procrastinator ******
Age: 109 Zodiac: Joined: 04 Oct 2011 Posts: 1422 Location: England
|
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 11:49 Post subject: |
|
|
The standard Mitsi is engineered to operate in extreme weather conditions, but the 'East Midlands' obviously pushes it outside of its design envelope |
|
Back to top |
|
|
helijohn LifeTime Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2003 Posts: 2612 Location: Seaside resort
|
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 10:13 Post subject: |
|
|
For me the problem is made worse by the fact I mostly use the motor for only a few miles commute. So every trip the engine is still on choke. So the question is what can I do to get a quicker warm up or even just get ti warmed up. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|