The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[mick-b]

Apologies if this is going over old ground but I'm looking for the holy grail of a definitive answer on the subject of bleeding the brake system on the above. Answers seem to vary from "it can only be done with a MUT computer" (assume that's not a complete dog...) to "as you would any other ABS type system" and a variety in between.

More recently I read (and I don't think it was on here) the following suggested method, provided the master cylinder reservoir has not been allowed to drop below "minimum":

Starting at the rear right, then rear left, then front right and finally, front left, undertake the following steps with the ignition on

1.With bleed point open 1/4 turn, pump brake pedal 3 times then hold and close bleed point;
2. With bleed point closed, pump brake pedal 3 times then hold and very quickly open and close bleed point;
3. Repeat as required until no air is ejected but regularly check level of master cylinder reservoir;
4. Move on to next wheel and start over...

Does this make sense? Apparently it is the "OEM method"...

I get the "ignition on" bit as that ensures the brake servo pump is running but my "normal" manual way of bleeding a system would be bleed point open, pedal down and hold, bleed point closed; pedal up, repeat until clean and clear fluid with no air bubbles... but that's on a brake system without an electric servo pump.

So assuming I'm just wanting to evacuate a bit of air that got in when pushing back the calliper pistons (so, bleed point cracked open) and, at the same time purge the system of old fluid by flushing through with new, no air otherwise in the system, what is deemed to be the correct sequence of events please?

[Google]

[radiomike]

Occasionally the fronts can be tricky from dry but if the reservoir is still full you will have no problems.  With key in the running position bleed the fronts as described in method 1 then hold the pedal halfway down and open each rear bleed screw in turn until no air is seen.  Keep the reservoir topped up but do not overfill as the check level with key on is only about 2/3 the way up.

If ever you need to remove a calliper use a 10mm bolt with a nyloc nut and the old copper washers to seal the banjo coupling and prevent fluid loss.

[mick-b]

OK, thanks for that - I now have the correct replacement discs to go with the new pads and the new sets of guide pins and boots so just need the weather to warm up and stabilise!

[radiomike]

If you haven't done one before note the rears have a built in drum for the handbrake and you may have to slacken the adjustment off in order to clear the inevitable rust ridge.  The adjusters are accessible through a hole in the back plate once you remove the rubber plug.

Jack the old discs off with a couple of m8 bolts and clean up the hub mating surface with a fine abrasive sheet.

[mick-b]

Yep, done the back pair on Saturday and had stripped the OSF when I discovered I had been sent the wrong replacement discs so had to put it all back together again... oh how we smiled at the time. But if it's worth doing once clearly it's worth repeating the exercise. It wa really just the bleed cycle that I was uncertain about but thanks for the info nonetheless.