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Pajero James *****
Age: 44 Zodiac: Joined: 14 Jan 2017 Posts: 654 Location: Lost
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Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 19:38 Post subject: |
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The ecu is depending on parts of the pump to keep fueling correct. It’s far more electrical than the older mechanical pump. If one part of that pump or tps for example is faulty then the ecu would be constantly adjusting to correct itself which it can’t do due to a fault. |
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Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 19:38 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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TOMMYN *
Age: 70 Zodiac: Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 36 Location: NORTH WALES
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Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 21:36 Post subject: |
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Ah ok , so if it is pump I think it something I can live with until it fails completely, its not my main vehicle and don't do major miles but will keep until its beyond repair. Its in pretty good condition for a 22 year old vehicle so I will be its last owner, too handy a vehicle to get rid of. Hope the battery disconnection fix works for a few weeks, its running fine now . |
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Pajero James *****
Age: 44 Zodiac: Joined: 14 Jan 2017 Posts: 654 Location: Lost
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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 14:18 Post subject: |
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Fitted pump anyway and it’s a transformed engine. The pump that came out has been opened as sealant is present so it’s unknown really what has been done to that pump.
I’m not saying it’s always pump, the potentiometer is an item that could cause idling issues if it were faulty. |
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TOMMYN *
Age: 70 Zodiac: Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 36 Location: NORTH WALES
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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:06 Post subject: |
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At least someone seems to have finally got to the bottom of this problem, may have a look to see cost to sort it out Thanks for info. |
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ryan1000 ***
Age: 47 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Jun 2011 Posts: 216 Location: wales
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:53 Post subject: |
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Mine has got the same problem, 2.8 with edc pump, lumpy on cold start, if I select drive it's very lumpy, also if I rev it, the revs drop right down below tick over then bounce back up, so the pump is at fault?? |
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TOMMYN *
Age: 70 Zodiac: Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 36 Location: NORTH WALES
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 17:01 Post subject: |
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The problem seems to be that the car stutters and throws out black smoke , then recovers for a few seconds then does it again. seems more pronounced when say standing at lights in drive, but if you put vehicle into N or P it stops. Under normal driving it isn't noticeable |
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destroyityourself *****
Joined: 10 Nov 2014 Posts: 782 Location: wales
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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 21:32 Post subject: |
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What is the idlerelearn?
Could a faulty tps on a 95 2.8 cause hunting, misfire, white/blue smoke ? |
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wales660 ***
Age: 53 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2017 Posts: 130 Location: South Wales
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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 22:15 Post subject: |
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The very thing which most people with this problem are over looking is AIR . I dismissed this thinking well i cant see any fuel leaks, but when you think about it the fuel is sucked in not pumped which gives it every opportunity to suck AIR in without seeing a leak. If the fuel was delivered by a fuel pump at the tank it would pressurize and you would get a leak then.
Can people following this post with this problem happening to your vehicle tell us what fuel filter you are using? I have a new Boshi on mine with both seals in place, The fuel filter and housing
are going in the bin tomorrow. New parts have arrived from Mitsubishi and will be fitted tomorrow
To date the following parts have been changed on my pajero to try and combat this problem.
Alternator-Temp switch-Timing chain-Pump seal- 4 new injectors ( Definitely helped but not solved it)
Kind of confident tomorrow this age old problem will be solved.
Jeff |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 7:02 Post subject: |
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wales660 wrote: |
I have a new Boshi on mine with both seals in place, The fuel filter and housing
are going in the bin tomorrow. New parts have arrived from Mitsubishi and will be fitted tomorrow
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Yes,air ingress into the fuel system is a regular cause of the problems that are reported on this site. In fact it was mentioned near the start of this very long thread.
You made specific mention of the two seals on the Boshi fuel filter. Do you know that the inner one is redundant, and can allow air to get in as it prevents the outer seal from doing its job properly? It would have been worth removing it from the filter before binning the entire assembly. |
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wales660 ***
Age: 53 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2017 Posts: 130 Location: South Wales
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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 7:41 Post subject: |
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I only learnt about the redundant extra seal when I asked about the primer pump in a different post. My primer pump does not prime properly hence why im changing it. I changed the fuel filter before learning about the redundant seal so didnt whip the filter back off to remove the seal as i was going to change the primer pump today.
Yes it has been mentioned quite a few times in this thread but i think it get dismissed by most people as they think something major is going on here. I think we will find most people will be running on this
Boshi or 2 seal type fuel filter.
It wont be for the lack of trying to resolve this issue, im like a dog with a bone now and wont give up.
Hopefully have some good news later You have to admire my perseverance |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 9:10 Post subject: |
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wales660 wrote: |
Hopefully have some good news later You have to admire my perseverance |
Yes, I do admire your perseverance! I'm sure it will pay off and I look forward to an update later. |
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wales660 ***
Age: 53 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2017 Posts: 130 Location: South Wales
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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 22:17 Post subject: |
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Decided to change the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets today. Ive been putting it off for months thinking it was a horrible job to do. Yep it was an absolute pig of a job so fiddly to do and took me
most of the day. Also changed the primer fuel housing with a new filter and this time the second seal i have removed.
Also noticed 2 of the new injectors are leaking so had to take all apart again to torque them up again . Im not convinced the new injector i got off ebay are as good as the original ones i removed. So im going to send my old ones up to Diesel Bob to get them refurbished and will be putting them back in.
New exhaust going on tomorrow hence why i have changed the gaskets.
Heres a video on the results of my days work.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CixYIgO4csJhPYRKxGcsvszcc2hN3LLu/view?usp=sharing
Only time will tell now if its fixed but as you can see in the video the stuttering has gone for now.
Thanks
Jeff |
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Simon_W *******
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 4881 Location: Watford
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Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 23:38 Post subject: |
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Sounds promising, although I can't claim to have viewed all 7 minutes!
A good days work. |
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RBZ **
Age: 75 Zodiac: Joined: 09 Jan 2018 Posts: 87 Location: West Yorkshire
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Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 17:38 Post subject: |
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Pajero James wrote: |
The ecu is depending on parts of the pump to keep fueling correct. It’s far more electrical than the older mechanical pump. If one part of that pump or tps for example is faulty then the ecu would be constantly adjusting to correct itself which it can’t do due to a fault. |
Called at a diesel specialist today and his thoughts on this were the fuel pump fly by wire system was the fault. Sadly he did not have the diagnostics equipment to check out his theory. However, I am going to see a couple of guys who cut their teeth working at a Mitsubishi garage around the time these trucks were introduced to the UK.
Watch this space as they say. The truck ran like a new vehicle when I took it to the guy today, sods law as it stuttered and farted around in the morning. Dont you just love em! |
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wales660 ***
Age: 53 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2017 Posts: 130 Location: South Wales
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Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 20:59 Post subject: |
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Still running sweet
If i was to start again trying to fix the rough idle i would approach it very differently.
Ist place i would look would be on the inlet manifold where there is a Orange Vacuum sender which is connected to the map sensor via a vacuum braided pipe. Remove sender and blast brake cleaner
through it until all the gunk is out of it and the brake cleaner is running clear through then let it dry and then give it a squirt of wd40 then replace the vacuum pipe for a silicone one, This simple job has a huge effect on how the car idles under load conditions.
Guys this costs a few quid to do and in my opinion you would be a fool not to do it.
Also when i did mine i had the inlet manifold off the pajero and it was full of sludge. Proper gunked up and the throttle body too.
I wanted to replace my Orange vacuum sender but could find no information or part number for it anywhere so just cleaned it best i could.
So for you guys following this thread and done nothing yet this is a good starting point given that it only costs a few quid to do.
If anyone knows what the orange vaccum sender is called or better still got a part number for it i would be interested to know as i dont like to renew everything.
Thanks
Jeff |
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