The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[Pajero James]

The ecu is depending on parts of the pump to keep fueling correct. It’s far more electrical than the older mechanical pump. If one part of that pump or tps for example is faulty then the ecu would be constantly adjusting to correct itself which it can’t do due to a fault.

[Google]

[TOMMYN]

Ah ok , so if it is pump I think it something I can live with until it fails completely, its not my main vehicle and don't do major miles but will keep until its beyond repair. Its in pretty good condition for a 22 year old vehicle so I will be its last owner, too handy a vehicle to get rid of. Hope the battery disconnection fix works for a few weeks, its running fine now .

[Pajero James]

Fitted pump anyway and it’s a transformed engine. The pump that came out has been opened as sealant is present so it’s unknown really what has been done to that pump.
I’m not saying it’s always pump, the potentiometer is an item that could cause idling issues if it were faulty.

[TOMMYN]

At least someone seems to have finally got to the bottom of this problem, may have a look to see cost to sort it out Thanks for info.

[ryan1000]

Mine has got the same problem, 2.8 with edc pump, lumpy on cold start, if I select drive it's very lumpy, also if I rev it, the revs drop right down below tick over then bounce back up, so the pump is at fault??

[TOMMYN]

The problem seems to be that the car stutters and throws out black smoke , then recovers for a few seconds then does it again. seems more pronounced when say standing at lights in drive, but if you put vehicle into N or P it stops. Under normal driving it isn't noticeable

[destroyityourself]

What is the idlerelearn?

Could a faulty tps on a 95 2.8 cause hunting, misfire, white/blue smoke ?

[wales660]

The very thing which most people with this problem are over looking is AIR . I dismissed this thinking  well i cant see any fuel leaks, but when you think about it the fuel is sucked in not pumped  which gives it every opportunity to suck AIR in without seeing a leak. If the fuel was delivered by a fuel pump at the tank it would pressurize and you would get a leak then.


Can people following this post with this problem happening to your vehicle tell  us what fuel filter you are using? I have  a  new Boshi on mine  with both seals in place, The fuel filter and housing
are going in the bin tomorrow. New parts have arrived from Mitsubishi and will be fitted tomorrow

To date the following parts have been changed on my pajero to try and combat this problem.

Alternator-Temp switch-Timing chain-Pump seal- 4 new injectors ( Definitely helped  but not  solved it)

Kind of confident tomorrow this age old problem will be solved.

Jeff

[Simon_W]

[wales660]

I only learnt about the redundant extra seal when I asked about the primer pump in a different post. My primer pump does not prime properly hence why im changing it. I changed the fuel filter before learning about the redundant seal so didnt whip the filter back off to remove the seal as i was going to change the primer pump today.


Yes it has been mentioned quite a few times in this thread but i think it get dismissed by most people as they think  something major is going on here.  I think we will find most people will be running on this
Boshi or 2 seal type  fuel filter.


It wont be for the lack of trying to resolve this issue, im like a dog with a bone now and wont give up.

Hopefully have some good news later  You have to admire my perseverance    

[Simon_W]

[wales660]

Decided  to change the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets today. Ive been putting it off for months thinking it was a horrible job to do. Yep it was an absolute pig of a job so fiddly to do and took me
most of the day. Also changed the primer fuel  housing with a new filter and this time the second seal i have removed.

Also noticed 2 of the new injectors are leaking so had to take all  apart again to torque them up again    . Im not convinced the new injector i got off ebay are  as good as the original ones i removed. So im going to send my old ones up to Diesel Bob to get them refurbished and will be putting them back in.

New exhaust going on tomorrow hence why i have changed the gaskets.

Heres a video on the results of my days work.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CixYIgO4csJhPYRKxGcsvszcc2hN3LLu/view?usp=sharing

Only time will tell now if its fixed but as you can see in the video the stuttering has gone for now.

Thanks

Jeff

[Simon_W]

Sounds promising, although I can't claim to have viewed all 7 minutes!  

A good days work.

[RBZ]

[wales660]

Still running  sweet


If i was to start again trying to fix the rough idle i would approach it very differently.


Ist place i would look would be on the inlet manifold where there is a Orange Vacuum sender which is connected to the map sensor via a vacuum braided pipe. Remove sender and blast brake cleaner
through it until all the gunk is out of it and the brake cleaner is running clear through then let it dry and then give it a squirt of wd40 then replace the vacuum pipe for a silicone one, This simple job has a huge effect on how the car idles under load conditions.

Guys this costs a few quid to do and in my opinion you would be a fool not to do it.

Also when i did mine i had the inlet manifold off the pajero and it was full of sludge. Proper gunked up and the throttle body too.

I wanted to replace my Orange vacuum sender but could find no information or part number for it anywhere so just cleaned it best i could.


So for you guys following this thread and done nothing yet this is a good starting point given that it only costs a few quid to do.

If anyone knows what the orange vaccum sender is called or better still got a part number for it i would be interested to know as i dont like to renew everything.

Thanks

Jeff