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2007 rear stop light and running light

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WVAM
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Joined: 18 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 18:37    Post subject: 2007 rear stop light and running light Reply with quote

2007 LWB 3.2 Shogun Warrior. I understand why the rear running lights are in the bumper and I've searched a lot of the rear upper light cluster conversions for more light.
Looking at mine the upper cluster brake light bulbs already have double elements and there are three wires going to the bulb holder. I guess that's all left over from Japanese specs. When they did the conversions for the UK did they simply remove or blank off a wire somewhere in the rear loom and if so, where as I would like to add it back in?

Also thinking of duplicating the indicators in the upper clusters in the spare lens and assume I can just extend from the indicators in the bumper?

Thanks for the help.

Chris
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 18:37    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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DI-Dick
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 22:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

See the other thread 'Rear Light Mod' just down from this one.  It's all in there.
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 8:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks - I did have a look before posting but without getting the loom out from inside the body finding "the wire" is awkward.

I checked this morning and the upper cluster has 3 wires leaving the connector but 5 going in. If I switch on the rear lights (in bumper) one of the unused 5 pins in the connector is also live. Now wondering if you can buy a different plug which brings the upper running light on? I would have thought when they adapted things for the UK market they would have looked for a simple solution but that may be expecting too much.

I suppose the other option is to connect from the wire feeding the back of the connector (live when lights on) and then to the tail/stop light wiring - was just hoping for a simple plug solution. Have probably answered my own question - doh!
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DI-Dick
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've just got to connect up the third wire from the bulb holder to the spare pin in the connector which becomes live when you turn side lights on.  Quick soldering job.
I've never bothered trying to reconnect the indicators.
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 17:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="DI-Dick"]You've just got to connect up the third wire from the bulb holder to the spare pin in the connector which becomes live when you turn side lights on.  Quick soldering job.
I've never bothered trying to reconnect the indicators.[/quote]

Thanks DI-Dick, it was as easy as you said. Your help is appreciated.

I'll tackle the indicators later but as the upper bulb holder is blanked off it's a bit more work.

Chris
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DI-Dick
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 22:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us know if you find a good way of doing the indicators...
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 16:33    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="DI-Dick"]Let us know if you find a good way of doing the indicators...[/quote]

Well! I bought some bulb holders and yellow bulbs from that auction site. However, I've run in to an unexpected, or in hindsight should have known better so "don't do as I did", problem
Cutting through the black plastic at the rear of the unit was easy, done carefully with a 25mm flat drill bit. Once you are through the black you have to go through the reflector so plumped for 20mm bit. All was going well. I decided to clean up the hole in the reflector with a Dremmel and the fine pieces of white swarf have got on to the inside of the outer plastic (the big piece that covers the whole unit). Note that from the top bulb position they can get everywhere on the outer plastic and don't stay just at the top. As you can imagine, with static they want to stay where they are. I got most out with an airline but there are still far too many there and I'm less than happy with the result. I'm not attempting the other unit until I can think of a way to avoid the problem.  So be warned.

Now if i could separate the outer plastic from the unit ...... but if I try that I know it will break!
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Dobie
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 18:41    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flat bit probably didn’t help. I used a ultra thin, fast cut starret hole cutter with a hoover, not perfect but very little in the lamp. I also held the lamp and drilled up before break through.
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 20:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Dobie"]Flat bit probably didn’t help. I used a ultra thin, fast cut starret hole cutter with a hoover, not perfect but very little in the lamp. I also held the lamp and drilled up before break through.[/quote]

The flat bit swarf was fine as it comes off in large bits that are easily removed and it leaves a complete disc to remove - it was the Dremmel fine stuff when tidying up edges and cutting the slots for the holder that caused the problem. I just thought others should be aware that whatever you use there will be a problem to greater or lesser degree.
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DI-Dick
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 20:21    Post subject: Reply with quote

WVAM

Oh dear, that sounds extremely annoying.

Just a thought...can you wash it out?  If you remove all the bulb holders and then just fill up the unit with soapy water and keep rinsing it out through the bulb holder mounting holes?  Getting it completely dry would be the issue I imagine but with an airline, or maybe using a dehumidifier or maybe a few days in the sun?  Maybe.

Can I just ask, now that you've drilled the holes, how will the bulb holder that you bought mount/attach to the light unit?  Obviously the little fitting lugs that are usually there will not be there in this case.
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 20:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

DI-Dick

I did think about rinsing it out but there is always the risk of spotting on the inside of the plastic. I've got 99% of it out. If you undo the 4 screws at the back it allows some movement in the reflectors. Then tap the unit and also run your hands across the clear plastic. I think it helps to generate a charge that moves the particles. Then using my garage vacuum cleaner it's just about all out. We are talking about white particles that are as fine as flour so you only notice if you get very close.

When you drill the holes you also need to cut spaces/receivers for the lugs on the bulb holder. Either a fine file or Dremmel will do the job. The holders I got are about 1mm in diameter too big at the base so a quick file around the edge and they (well just the first one) sit in snuggly - when you twist it the lugs lock in. That can bring its own problem. If the main hole is cut off centre then the bulb holders will rotate eccentrically to the main body of the unit - you just need to take care.

It's not really a difficult job but you do need care with the dust/swarf and getting everything centred. Wiring up should be straight forward as I've already identified the indicator live feed.

Is it all worth it?  - don't know as I haven't seen any tail-ended Shoguns!


If you search 2x BAU15S BULB HOLDER PY21W 15mm SIDELIGHT INDICATOR BRAKE FOG REVERSE GLB581 on the bay you'll see what I ordered (not sure if I'm allowed to post links). The base of the holder is just a little too big to sit in the back of the light cluster. There are probably others around - just thought others should know about the fitting size. Also had to dump the supplied o-ring for a thinner one (assuming you need on at all).
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 17:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, now all done so thought I would add a few notes in case others take it on.

1. There are, I'm sure, better bulb holders out there. The ones I bought were just a little too big and needed a bit more work. Worked in the end but would have liked a slightly better result - although it is all out of sight.
2. I found the best solution to cutting holes was not to go right through with either a flat bit or hole cutter. You can score a deep circle and then snap or prise the centre out with care.
3. Small bulbs! I had 21W large yellow bulbs. The glass was too large to go through the hole - doh! Small 5W yellow bulbs look to give enough light.
4. Used the vacuum cleaner while cutting and took much more care to avoid swarf etc. Second lens had nothing in at all.

End result looks good with both running lights and indicators working in the top light clusters as well as the bumper, and I'm not sure why I didn't get round to it sooner as it's not my first Shogun. Now need to decide what to tinker with next.
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woodie106
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 11:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a very quick note of caution -  the car building regs in this country are very particular about the position of lighting - especially indicators. It states that ALL Indicators must be visible at ALL times. For thos of us with the rear mounted spare wheel, when the door is open the light cluster is covered by the spare wheel carrier, so not visible - hence the reason the lights are in the rear bumper.
With the new MOT regs this year, you could witha a very sharp tester fall foul of the regs & therefore fail your MOT for adding lights!!

I have thought the same as the rest of you - why do i have blanks in the light cluster? But on doing a bit of research i found out why & was cautioned against doing any mods by someone who works at VOSA.
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peteinchad
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 12:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

On MkII Pajeros there are no bumper lights - so technically they are illegal.

They pass the MOT though - so there must be some sort of exemption for imports.
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WVAM
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 22:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had the MOT last week and no problems with the lights. I much prefer having the additional indicators which really stand out as the light level drops.
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