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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 19:47 Post subject: Fuel Filler pipes etc. |
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Hi, Peeps,
I have just had a service and also replaced rear discs and pads and all the front ball joints.
recently the O/S rear underbody shield came adrift.
Looking at replacing that, I noticed that all the fitting points had corroded away to nothing so just decided to protect the fuel filler pipes etc.
Shock Horror!! very badly corroded...heavy scale.. I have covered the whole area with FERTAN to halt further corrosion and then liberally sprayed the pipes and surrounding area with Dinitrol and waxoil underbody protection.
M
Has anyone had any experience of replacing the Filler pipes and associated breather pipes??
My garage is quoting about £600 for the whole job, including replacing the underbody shield.
The job is not urgent but will have to be done at or before the next service.
Any advice will be most welcome,
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Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 19:47 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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assassin ********
Age: 64 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: Wherever I Wander To -- Midlands
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Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 3:24 Post subject: |
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Several ways of replacing them.
You can buy the new pipes for under £100 from Milners (depending on model) and they are a straight replacement without too many issues.
You can make your own from standard 15mm copper central heating pipe, a bending spring, and an ability to solder. You can make the smaller breather vent pipes using copper or cupro nickel brake pipe.
Form the copper heating pipe by carefully bending it to the required angles and cutting the bent section to length, tape this one to the pipe you are replicating and form the next pipe.
Tape the second formed pipe to the pipe you are replicating and align them accurately and mark them for their mounting brackets.
Flatten an offcut of pipe and form it to wrap around both the formed pipes and clamp lightly into position, repeat for all the mounting points and fit the mounting points after removing the newly formed pipes onto a flat surface for soldering, and tack with a little solder and check for fit. Remove the old pipes and cut them back to good pipe at the filler end, cap the rubber pipes at the tank end, fit the tacked pipes into position and ensure they will fit, remove and fully solder them.
At the filler end you need to clean the metal pipes back to clean metal and use standard 15mm 90 degree bends if required and a stub of pipe, connect these together using 16mm OR 5/8th rubber fuel pipe and stainless steel jubilee clips to provide galvanic insulation, remove the pipe assembly and fit either PIB tape or a piece of thin plastic to the rear side of the copper mountings to insulate it from the steel and fit the whole assembly using either titanium bolts or nuts depending on fixing type.
Form the thinner tank filter pipes to the sealed breather and install this in position, depending upon mounting type you may have to make a new one and this is done by slitting a short length of spare copper pipe along its length and opening it up and flattening it, solder this across both large breather pipes and drill it for your sealed breather, fit the pipes and uncap your rubber pipes at the tank end and connect then all to the rubber pipes. |
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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 10:31 Post subject: Filler Pipes |
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Hi,
Thanks,
I do not have the skills to make them myself so it is down to the garage.
At least the sparts fit properly. |
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Crp *
Joined: 24 Sep 2017 Posts: 35 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 12:03 Post subject: |
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Hi,
Are you replacing just the fuel filler pipe and associated breathers down to the tank from filler cap?
This comes as one piece with breathers already connected each of which fit simply into a flexible section of pipe which is attached to the next section.
This being the case, very simple job and as already stated replacement avalable at milners for less than £100
Completed same job on mine recently with no issues and a massive saving on garage costs |
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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 13:07 Post subject: Fuel fiuller pipes etc. |
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Hi,
I need to replace the whole fuel filler system from the top to the tank.
Milners seem to have 2 parts. of which one appears to be the whole system and the other part a short set with breather pipes.
Would I need both parts or is the second part included in their full set? |
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Crp *
Joined: 24 Sep 2017 Posts: 35 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 14:08 Post subject: |
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Hi,
Sent you a PM with details of the one I used |
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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 15:42 Post subject: |
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Many thanks, |
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alienidea LifeTime Member
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 17 Jul 2006 Posts: 331 Location: llanelli
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Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 10:25 Post subject: |
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It is 2 parts but they don,t come as a kit the lower bit goes thou the chassis rail .If your changing the bigger top part change the lower one as well.One tip i would give the factory paint is poor so i stripped it off and repainted with zinc and then a few coats siminz tough black .And DON,T replace the plastic shield. |
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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 10:40 Post subject: |
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Thanks,
I have ordered both parts, as the garage says that the breather pipes on the lower part were totally disintegrated.
I not your comments on the paint, and the shield.
When fitted I was also going to shield with some expanding foam to give some stone protection. |
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meatballs Newbie
Joined: 05 Sep 2018 Posts: 8 Location: South
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Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 21:57 Post subject: |
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The through-body lower part - can it be replaced without taking off the tank?
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alienidea LifeTime Member
Age: 54 Zodiac: Joined: 17 Jul 2006 Posts: 331 Location: llanelli
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Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 19:18 Post subject: |
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It can be ..but it,s a little awkard .most people drop and repaint the tank at the same time also check the breather pipes and main fuel pipe.. |
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meatballs Newbie
Joined: 05 Sep 2018 Posts: 8 Location: South
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Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 21:26 Post subject: |
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I do love awkward jobs. Need to drill them out at some point. Will try and check the inspection port under the seat at the weekend - I assume you de/re-attach hoses reaching down through there? I have avoided the tank as I broke bolts just trying to take the cover off
I did ask at the garage if they could drop it and check the condition of the fuel lines and he just looked at me puzzled and said no-ones asked them to do that before and reckoned you'd notice power problems from air getting in to the lines if they were rusted. |
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H22a7coupe *
Age: 34 Zodiac: Joined: 17 Dec 2018 Posts: 26 Location: Swansea
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 17:40 Post subject: |
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£600!!! thats crazy amount tbh.
Unless the garage is charging £300 an hour labour |
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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 17:45 Post subject: |
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I got the bits from Milner's
Gave them 4 coats of paint and the garage fitted for 1 hour labour , plus underseal clips and fittings for £100. Much better than getting the bits from Mitsubishi.
By the way, perfect fit, straightforward job. |
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dennisrobinson53 ****
Age: 78 Zodiac: Joined: 03 May 2012 Posts: 331 Location: HULL
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 17:50 Post subject: |
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Never noticed any power drop off so I guess that despite the heavy corrosion there were no holes. The rubber pipes at the bottom had all disappeared anyway.
I am pretty sure that they did not need to take the tank off the get the lower section fitted.
Didn't replace the plastic shield. Could not anyway as all the little metal fitting bits were rusted away.
Put lots of underseal all over the pipes to replace the protection that the shield would offer against stones being thrown up. and I will check each time the wheel is off/ recoating. |
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