2Gether Insurance 01945 585322

The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ
The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
 
The POCUK - it's not just a Club, it's a way of life!

 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   Watched TopicsWatched Topics   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your personal messagesLog in to check your personal messages   Log inLog in 
Click here to link to the Pajero Owners Club UK FaceBook Group!POCUK FaceBook Group  POCUK home pagePOCUK Home  POCUK ForumsPOCUK Forums  CalendarCalendar

MK1 Pajero 2.5td 4D56 won't start

Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ Forum Index -> Starting / running issues
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 11:53    Post subject: MK1 Pajero 2.5td 4D56 won't start Reply with quote

Good morning all, returning old member here.
Have a 1990 Pajero 2.5td Exceed, 4D56 that has been stood for several years now, to add to that, she has been stood nose up on a pretty steep driveway.
Cut a long story short, the old girl is refusing to start, I suspect a fueling issue but would be grateful for any advice that can be offered. She does turn over a treat though.
Have previously replaced fuel lines and even disconnected the tank and piped her up to a can of fresh diesel but to no avail.
I would also appreciate any advice with regards to how the fuel lines run from tank to pump and from pump to injectors/engine/return etc., as I'm mindful of the fact that having replaced them all in the past, I may have replaced them wrongly.

Thanks in advance of any advice offered.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Google
Sponsor







PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 11:53    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


Back to top
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 13:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone is able to provide a photo of the hose arrangement to and from the fuel pump that'd be much appreciated.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 19:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a further play around this afternoon and can hand prime fuel to the filter and there is fuel in the line from here to the injector pump, however, after cracking injector number one off and turning her over there doesn't appear to be any fuel reaching the injector rail.
I'm no mechanic but that suggests an issue with the injector pump or a blockage between there and the rail perhaps???
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
trekker
********
********


Age: 83
Zodiac: Scorpio
Joined: 25 Jun 2012
Posts: 5202
Location: Zimbabwe

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 11:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tested the fuel cut off solenoid valve at the IP ? Do you  have power there ?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 20:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks fro the reply Trekker.
That was exactly the suggestion my brother-in-law made last night mate, gonna check it out at the weekend.
Will keep you posted, thanks again.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 15:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel cut off solenoid working fine and now getting fuel to the injectors.
She turns over nicely and occasionally coughs, splutters and lets out a cloud of black smoke, but point blank refuses thus far to fire up.
It's like the fuel is now there but not igniting or combusting.
Any further advice would be greatly appreciated, gotta get her moved in the next 10-14 days, as having a house extension built where she is stood and don't wanna have to call the scrap man!!!
Would love to get her shifted and then get her properly sorted after her period of neglect.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
trekker
********
********


Age: 83
Zodiac: Scorpio
Joined: 25 Jun 2012
Posts: 5202
Location: Zimbabwe

PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 17:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given how long it's stood, check for a rat's nest in the air pipe to the air filter, it could be air starvation.

Then check the valve and IP timing, it's a max 10 minute job. Maybe you had a sticking valve and the belt jumped a couple of teeth when you first cranked the engine.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 11:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks once again Trekker.
Sorry for all the questions but how do I go about checking the IP timing please?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
trekker
********
********


Age: 83
Zodiac: Scorpio
Joined: 25 Jun 2012
Posts: 5202
Location: Zimbabwe

PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 10:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disconnect the battery for safety.

Remove the timing cover top half, 5 x 6mm hex bolts. You'll see the cam shaft sprocket on the top left and the IP sprocket on the IP shaft.

See the crank pulley timing mark (a groove on the outer face of the pulley) and the timing mark on the black plastic timing cover, use only the TDC mark. Rotate the crankshaft with a socket spanner on the crank pulley bolt, turning clock wise only, until the 2 marks align. See the timing marks on both the cam shaft and IP sprockets. The cam shaft is a drilling and the IP a groove. If one of these is around 180 degree out, rotate the crankshaft a full turn and both timing marks should align. By slackening the belt tensioner, a sprocket can be moved within the belt until alignment is spot on with the tensioner bolts tightened. Be sure both sprockets and the crank pulley timing marks remain aligned.

Once done, turn the crankshaft 2 turns and check timing marks are aligned. refit the timing cover.

If adjustment was needed, crank the engine, if it runs, pat yourself on the back for perseverance, and have a cuppa.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 19:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really can't thank you enough for all your wonderful advice Trekker.
I will try this as soon as I get chance to do so and will let you know how it goes, however, it is you that will deserve the big pat on the back should it work.
Thanks once again.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 16:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks once again for the latest advice Trekker.
It certainly would've been a ten minute job, had it not taken me well over an hour to find the TDC marks on the bottom cover, they were buried under various other drive belts! Lol
Unfortunately the timing doesn't appear to be the issue, as both the cam sprocket and pump sprocket marks lined up correctly when the crank was set at TDC.

The mystery continues????
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
trekker
********
********


Age: 83
Zodiac: Scorpio
Joined: 25 Jun 2012
Posts: 5202
Location: Zimbabwe

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 17:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was the engine running well when you parked the truck up the driveway?

Have you tested the glow  plug system, can you hear the glow solenoid engage as the ign key is turned to the ON position, and do you have around 12 V at the bus bar for 3 seconds as the key is ON ?

If all this is working well, test each glow plug by removing the bus bar, then each glow plug from the engine. Connect a wire from the battery + post to the glow plug body. Working well away from the battery to avoid a hydrogen explosion, hold the plug against a bare metal part of the body or engine. the plug will glow near white hot in 2-3 seconds, then disconnect. Any which don't glow have to be replaced. On my '89, the engine will not fire if even 1 plug is duff. These plugs are Quick Glow 6.2V and usually have a green band around the insulator top.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 18:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine ran beautifully, though a little smokey under load, before being parked up.
My brother-in-law checked voltage at glow plug solenoids when ignition was on and they registered 12v, you can definitely hear a pretty loud audible click too, then another a couple of seconds or so later.
I seriously appreciate you taking the time to respond to my many queries trekker.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
trekker
********
********


Age: 83
Zodiac: Scorpio
Joined: 25 Jun 2012
Posts: 5202
Location: Zimbabwe

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 7:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those tests and sounds show the glow power is at the bus bar, that does not show the glow plugs are heating.

Can you ask your brother in law to test the individual plugs as laid out, faulty plugs will prevent starting.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Fisher-Price
*
*


Age: 46
Zodiac: Gemini
Joined: 03 Sep 2013
Posts: 43
Location: Warwickshire, UK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello trekker.
I have managed to remove the glow plugs and test them myself and they all get very hot, very quickly. I also cleaned all the points of contact on plugs, bus bar and wires, before placing them back in the truck. Unfortunately she still won't start.
Wondering whether it may be a pump issue, there is fuel reaching the injector rail but maybe not enough???....or maybe an injector issue???....though unlikely for all four injectors to fail I'd have thought???...though I'm certainly no mechanic!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ Forum Index -> Starting / running issues All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum


All contents © Hobson's Choice IT Solutions Ltd 1997 on
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group