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04 Sport 2.5 Overheat diagnosis and manual?

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Showight
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Joined: 09 Jul 2019
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Location: South

PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 9:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fortunately most of that has been done, it has a new rad, thermostat and was flushed - the "coolant" though heavily diluted, is completely clear with no rust/contamination showing.

Head bolts can be used up to 3 times as they are not torque to yield (unlike the 2.8), at 118nm that's barely more than alloy wheel nuts.

The gasket looks OK but will be doing a full inspection today. The 2.5 head can be skimmed - but yes needs a different thickness gasket.
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Showight
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Joined: 09 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 13:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit of an odd one, the head is flat to 0.1mm, (spec is 0.05-0.2mm) been over it with the phone on max magnification which shows even the smallest scratch and no cracks in the head, but all 4 inserts are cracked right through  Rolling Eyes

I am guessing there is coolant on the other side so there are the leaks


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Showight
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2019 13:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replacement used head on it's way thanks to an unrelated forum, - a member had a low mileage L200 one in his garage (lower mileage than this car  Very Happy )

   Milners were disappointing for a gasket set - would not ship by RM so wanted £15 and 2 days to ship it to the IOW. - Phoned  
Lymm Engineering  and bought a complete head kit and a Victor Reinz Head gasket for less and 24hr shipping - website is a bit of a nightmare but the guy on the phone was great!

   Bits here tomorrow and should be running by the weekend... (famous last words..)
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Showight
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 14:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a note that "Glaser" is owned by the DANA corporation which also owns Victor Reinz.  So my gasket came in Glaser branded packaging but the gasket itself was stamped Victor Reinz.

I pulled the water pump off just for an inspection (the engine was overheated after all) - not only is it fine, it looks completely indestructible with an impeller of about 1.5mm steel - which makes it more odd that you can not buy new gaskets for it without buying the whole pump!

Sent the injectors off for a clean and test - they were looking very scungy, and ordered a new set of glow pugs since 2/4 were dead - which would explain the starting issues.
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Showight
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 21:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

New head on, new glow plugs and cleaned/tested injectors.



Used a bit of string and a G clamp to get the spring back so the tensioner arm can drop in place, no drama!



Timing belt back on - so easy with all the marks

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2.25diesel
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 22:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies if you already know, but it is always worth turning the engine over by hand a few times after timing belt replacement. This is just to be sure everything is properly aligned and turns freely.

Out of interest, did you have the used replacement head skimmed and pressure tested before fitting?

It seems that it would be a disaster to fit it only to find that there was a problem with it.

The old head may be repairable if the head itself is not cracked. As far as I know, those cracked combustion chamber inserts can be replaced, and they don't contain the coolant themselves. Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

It may be a good thing that you caught it in time. I have also read that if those combustion chambers crack all the way through, they can come loose or break apart. They will then drop into the cylinder which can damage the piston, cylinder wall and head. This is known to happen on the old Series Land Rover diesel engines.
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Showight
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 23:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

The combustion chambers do crack almost from the first 100 miles and don't come near coolant - I only found this out after I got the replacement head else I would have tested the old head before swapping as it was flat to 0.1 might be worth testing and selling if it's good.

The chambers pop right out and would be a doddle to replace - if you could find them. They can not fall out as they overlap the block.



The new head was from a crashed car with 70K - the head was flat to within  .05mm no reason to think there was any issue.
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2.25diesel
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 23:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see the overlap looking at the original photo again. The Land Rover ones must not overlap as they are free to drop into the cylinder if they come loose.

How did you manage to clean the old oil and any dirt it may have picked up from around the valves on the replacement head? It looks very clean in the photos. That is something I have thought about before if I ever have to change a cylinder head.
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Showight
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 10:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dunked it in a bucket of white spirit with a little petrol in it, then just a gentle agitation with a brush. Last stubborn bits with brake cleaner.
Cleaned gasket surface with a razor blade - very carefully! Finished with a good hose off and a 24hr dry in front of a fan.
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2.25diesel
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 19:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply.

Have you had the engine running again yet?
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Showight
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 18:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not yet, nearly there, but had to spend a couple of hours cleaning thick black gunge from the intake manifold - courtesy of the EGR valve I assume - that was certainly pretty nasty.  Have not checked but I hope I don't find any in the intercooler or that means a turbo oil seal. Will not be able to get back to it until next week now.

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2.25diesel
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 19:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the Shogun sport crankcase breather hose vent into the rubber air intake hose?

It does on my MK1, and can cause oil to get into the intake manifold. The breather matrix on the underside of the valve cover can block up with sludge which makes it worse.
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Showight
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 0:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point, not sure if it does - usually a breather goes somewhere into the intake. My main concern will be directly after the turbo - I suspect it is just EGR mank - but best to check.
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Showight
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 22:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not been able to get to it for a week but put the last bits together today and after a few splutters to blow the air out of the injectors it fired right up.

Yep 2.25 was right about the vent, only a tiny smear on the turbo outlet but some gunk after the breather. - The manifold was a mess from the EGR thopugh

No nasty noises, smells or leaks so far. Filled it with water from the top hose and the rad, getting hot air out of the heater. Ran up to temp and cooled off, sucking in some from the expansion tank.  Left the rad cap off with the nose up and will fill tomorrow.

Once I know it's all OK I'll put coolant in. Normal Glycol I assume but have not checked.

I do think the starter needs a service though as it spins but does not always seem to engage - need to drop test the batt as it might be that too. Starter looks easy to get too.
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Showight
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Joined: 09 Jul 2019
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2019 21:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right well the starter pinion seems to be a common issue so that will be on the bench next. (Really like this guy, him and a few others that really know their stuff!)

https://youtu.be/PV74-_wK0fY
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