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Vibration


 
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aodanosiurdain
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2020 23:47    Post subject: Vibration Reply with quote

Bought pajero mk1 1990, drove great but everyone and then a terrible vibration and shaking builds up in the when steering and then just goes again after a while. What could it be?? Happens around 50/55 mph.
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JPB
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 2:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could this be down to something as simple as a wheel balance problem? That's assuming that the vibration is felt through the steering wheel.

Have a look at the wheels and see whether you're missing any balance weights, if the wheels have dirt on them, any missing weights' positions would be outlined.
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icehawk
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

would check wheel balance first,also look at prop shaft ujs,mine shook bad around 40 mph then disappeared around 45 mph,it was front uj at fault.
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hutchy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 10:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

is this happening on any road or on the same road,near to me in county durham since the local bypass has been resurfaced there is a horrible vibrating whine type noise but only on that stretch,loads of people have complained,just wondering if your having similar issues..  Question
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aodanosiurdain
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for all the helpful relies and suggestions.  It is not the road as i drove from Southampton to Holyhead and it came and went sporadically.  I will get the wheels balanced and have someone check all the joints.
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JPB
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 13:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea A few more thoughts I've had since looking at your recent post:
I'd tend to expect wheel balance to cause a more consistent problem, so my next step would be to have the front suspension checked while it's having the tracking looked at. The castor angle may be too far towards the vertical, which can and often does cause these symptoms. By swapping castor shims from behind the rearward mounting bracket of the upper wishbone(s) and putting them behind the forward upper wishbone bracket instead, this will add some positive castor, depending upon the existing setup. This could be a solution, but don't swap shims' positions without having a camber angle measurement taken first, this way, you will know whether this is outside of manufacturer's design spec before removing anything.
As the castor angle is changed, so the camber angle will change, though relatively slightly if the swapping of a shim from rear to front is enough to get the castor within design tolerance, for this reason, have these measurements checked before the tracking is checked, this way, everything can be in the right places prior to setting the tracking adjustment on the track rod ends.

I've always had far better results by using scuff plates* rather than mirrors and bright lights to adjust tracking on cars where the maker's numbers might not feel right or where odd tyre wear has been noticed, this because the plates' movement relative to each other tells you what you actually need to know; that the wheel is running perfectly straight when the vehicle is moving. The "smoke & mirrors" tracking check tells you the ideal setup in terms of toe in or out, the idea being that the wheels will then, under movement, come together and run parallel once moving, but many factors (worn wishbone bushes, camber and castor as mentioned above, slight wheel bearing play, rolling resistance differences between different makes of tyres, etc.) will make a nonsense of the tracking settings for a new car as a result of what are often minor issues that don't require attention yet and are not dangerous.

*- scuff plates are available in moulded plastic with rollers (generally branded Gunson's Trackrite), rather than a layer of grease, providing the movement that links to their pointer, but these are less effective on a heavier sort of vehicle such as a 4x4, in which case lay a steel plate on the floor, cover its surface with grease - thin, molybdenum-based stuff is best for this - and set a slightly smaller plate immediately above it, make marks on the edge of the upper plates and the edge of the lower plate to indicate the "off load" position. Any deviation between upper and lower marks indicates an alignment fault when the front wheels - one at a time - are rolled over the plate, when the wheel rolls over the plate without causing the upper to move relative to the lower, then your alignment is spot on and this way, you've allowed for the acceptable wear & tear found in any car that's not split new from the showroom.
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aodanosiurdain
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 14:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much for taking the trouble to write such a comprehensive reply. AJ
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JPB
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 18:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

No trouble at all. Here's wishing you success.

Cool
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froilad
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 2:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check also the tire pressure. Too much psi can cause vibration sometimes.
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pajeropete.2
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 19:34    Post subject: vibration Reply with quote

once i too had vibration on the road.    turned out   because i put after market wheels on my motor    and leaving the tapered washes on the wheel nuts.  cause the original wheel nuts and washes pairs up with the original wheels ONLY .....you cant inter mix these with other wheels so what i did... hammer and impact driver the washers off the wheel nuts...... well this worked for me in my situation..........ive still got the tapered washes just in case i put the original wheels back on my truck.      hope this helps someone,
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chall3ng3r
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 22:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sharing experience of random vibration start and stop in my Pajero Mini. Took it to mechanics and suspension specialist, they said to get its wheels balanced and redo alignment. I didn't do anything.

Few days later I discovered after driving the vehicle for 20+ KMs, passenger's side wheel was too hot for touch. Inspected it further and found that break cylinder's seal was not good, and piston had rust on it. It was jamming on one push of break, and would work good again on another push of break. It was inexpensive fix.

Remember to check breaks, if any one of them is jamming, then there will be vibration.
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