The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

greasemonkey1 · Posted: Wed May 27, 2020 18:28 Post subject: Rust treatment

Hello,
I am a newbie here. I bought my 1997 2.8 TD about ten years ago and it's been a great motor. The first thing that I did after I bought it was to take it to a vehicle restoration specialist and have the rust proofing re done. When I collected it, there was plenty of fresh underseal all over the underneath.

About two years later, I noticed the 'fresh' underseal was bubbling and flaking off to reveal patches of rust. I cleaned up the patches and replaced the missing underseal and this has now become an annual ritual! As I am furloughed for yet another month (and have plenty of time) can anyone recommend a rust remover that I can use to put on these patches before I re underseal? I have looked online and found Jemolite, Kurus and Dynax S50 to name a few.

Also, I notice that the two chassis members that run the length of the car are open to the elements at the front and have numerous round holes (Put in by Mitsi during manufacture?) running the length of them. Looking inside these chassis members, they are very rusty in there. Can anyone recommend a treatment for inside the chassis to stop them rotting from the inside?

Thanks

Google · Sponsor

NDZ · Posted: Wed May 27, 2020 21:21 Post subject:

Hi, plenty of great technical advice on rust to be found here maybe try searching some product names for opinions. My 2.8 had two coats of waxoyl from previous owner and had begun to accelerate the rust where the waxoyl had cracked and trapped moisture in. Without a doubt the hardest part of the job is cleaning and prep. I did the rounds underneath on a crawler with the vehicle on stands and its no small job, between the needle scaler, air line, wire cups and various hand tools its a good few days solid work for anyone. Wear close fitting ski-mask safety goggles (eiger style) if underneath with power tools. The chassis rails can be blasted out with a jetwash and lance, I improvised a wire rope drill whip which largely worked in the rails but was dangerous as hell and actually blew a hole through at one point, par for the course so don't be too surprised if you need a weld or two afterwards.

greasemonkey1 · Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 19:52 Post subject:

Hi, thanks a lot for the advice, it's really helpful. Yes there is also lots of usefull stuff on this website. I have bought a mini sandblaster to remove the rust from the outside of the chassis etc. after hammering the flaky bits off. Bilt Hamber seems to be highly recommended online, so I bought their Hydrate 80 Rust Killer to apply to the cleaned metal. Also I used their dynax s50 spray to do inside the box sections. It's a bit expensive, but hopefully I won't need to do it again for a few years!