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The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
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lancerevo3 ***
Age: 43 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Posts: 179 Location: IRELAND
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 13:33 Post subject: No drive to rear wheels |
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Hello.
I have a 95 2.8 manual lwb Pajero.
This morning I had symptoms of a slipping clutch.
The clutch is less than 1000 miles old so i limped home
and checked to see was it contaminated in some way .
Looks fine and no smell of burnt clutch either.
When I put the Pajero in 4wd drive it takes off no problem ,once I go back
to 2wd it's back to a slipping clutch symptom.
With the 4x4 stationary handbrake up and in gear I can release the clutch
and the proshaft doesn't turn so it's not the diff.
Has anyone had this issue ?
Is it a particular part in the transfer case which can be replaced ?
Mark |
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 13:33 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
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lancerevo3 ***
Age: 43 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Posts: 179 Location: IRELAND
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 19:25 Post subject: |
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Just had another look around.
Once it begins to slip if I lock the center diff it will drive away fine and
I can put it back in 2wd ,but a few mins later the issue returns.
Is center diff failure a common issue ?
Mark |
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assassin ********
Age: 64 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: Wherever I Wander To -- Midlands
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Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 3:18 Post subject: |
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Not really as normally they are bulletproof so further investigation is required, when you engage the diff lock you simply put equal power to both axles which means that potentially you are driving with the front wheels and not the rears.
Where to begin?
2W/D
Jack the vehicle and place on four axle stands so all four wheels are clear of the ground, and well clear; start the engine and put into 1st gear, the rear propshaft should be turning and also the front propshaft so check they are both turning.
If not then suspect the clutch, gearbox, and transfer case, if it does then suspect the rear axle assembly.
Stop the engine and rotate the rear wheel, if it is a normal open diff then the opposite wheel should turn in the opposite direction; if it is a limited slip diff then the opposite wheel should turn in the same direction, on the same axle. If they don't then suspect the rear diff or driveshafts, they were known to pop out of the splines at the differential so check they are fully engaged on both sides.If the opposite wheel on the same axle does not turn then suspect the rear diff.
Engage 4W/D and repeat, the front and rear wheels should now be turning, if not you can eliminate the clutch.
Engage the diff lock and repeat and all four wheels should be turning at the same speed.
Back to 2W/D and drop the rear wheels back onto the floor, start the engine and engage 1st gear, VERY CAREFULLY release the clutch until it bites and you feel the vehicle move very slightly, but not to much as it will push the vehicle off the front axle stands. This will prove power to the rear wheels under load. |
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lancerevo3 ***
Age: 43 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Posts: 179 Location: IRELAND
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Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 15:18 Post subject: |
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assassin wrote: |
Not really as normally they are bulletproof so further investigation is required, when you engage the diff lock you simply put equal power to both axles which means that potentially you are driving with the front wheels and not the rears.
Where to begin?
2W/D
Jack the vehicle and place on four axle stands so all four wheels are clear of the ground, and well clear; start the engine and put into 1st gear, the rear propshaft should be turning and also the front propshaft so check they are both turning.
If not then suspect the clutch, gearbox, and transfer case, if it does then suspect the rear axle assembly.
Stop the engine and rotate the rear wheel, if it is a normal open diff then the opposite wheel should turn in the opposite direction; if it is a limited slip diff then the opposite wheel should turn in the same direction, on the same axle. If they don't then suspect the rear diff or driveshafts, they were known to pop out of the splines at the differential so check they are fully engaged on both sides.If the opposite wheel on the same axle does not turn then suspect the rear diff.
Engage 4W/D and repeat, the front and rear wheels should now be turning, if not you can eliminate the clutch.
Engage the diff lock and repeat and all four wheels should be turning at the same speed.
Back to 2W/D and drop the rear wheels back onto the floor, start the engine and engage 1st gear, VERY CAREFULLY release the clutch until it bites and you feel the vehicle move very slightly, but not to much as it will push the vehicle off the front axle stands. This will prove power to the rear wheels under load. |
I have now run a permanent vacuum to the front diff so it does not
Engage 4wd .
With this done same issue is present and when I then engage the diff lock (so now it is still in 2wd)
the 4x4 will pull away no problem .
Put the transfer shifter back to 2wd it will drive fine for maybe 100 mtrs at most
and the the issue returns.
With the handbrake up and in gear once the clutch is released I can hear a rubbing/grinding
Coming from the transfer case ,the speedo does not register any speed while doing
this so the output shaft isn't rotating .
Clutch is new and pulls no issue with the difflock engaged or in 4wd so it's not
the issue .
I have seen a couple of posts with mentions of failures so I suppose it isn't unheard of |
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lancerevo3 ***
Age: 43 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Posts: 179 Location: IRELAND
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Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 15:27 Post subject: |
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Also when the 4x4 is in 2wd handbrake up in gear and clutch is released the front
prop is rotating and obviously the 4x4 goes nowhere .
It's will also just more or less rev out in 1st or 2nd while trying to pull away
3rd and 4th it seems to have more effect on forward momentum if that makes
Sense.
I'd assume the low gearing if 1st and 2nd is too much for the VC/diff to cope with .
I have another box to go in as I need the 4x4 earning it's keep at the
moment.
It will be interesting to see what's left go during the strip down of the box |
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assassin ********
Age: 64 Zodiac: Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: Wherever I Wander To -- Midlands
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 3:08 Post subject: |
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From your description it suggests the transfer case has worn or torn its splines off.
Quick check, drop the transfer case oil into a clean container, get a pair of the wifes tights or similar over another container and pour it through this, if serious damage is done it will be full of metal shards and confirm it for you. |
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Mark3 LifeTime Member
Age: 61 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Feb 2009 Posts: 4016 Location: Rainham Village, Essex.
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 7:48 Post subject: |
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lancerevo3 wrote: |
Also when the 4x4 is in 2wd handbrake up in gear and clutch is released the front
prop is rotating and obviously the 4x4 goes nowhere .
It's will also just more or less rev out in 1st or 2nd while trying to pull away
3rd and 4th it seems to have more effect on forward momentum if that makes
Sense.
I'd assume the low gearing if 1st and 2nd is too much for the VC/diff to cope with .
I have another box to go in as I need the 4x4 earning it's keep at the
moment.
It will be interesting to see what's left go during the strip down of the box |
Your suffering from a centre diff thats failing to lock, either the diff its self has failed or the mechanism that engages it it has
In 2H the front diff is disengaged so the centre diff should be locked to stop this exact thing from happening, when you select 4H the front diff engages and the centre diff unlocks to enable 4x4 drive on hard surfaces with out transmission wind up.... |
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lancerevo3 ***
Age: 43 Zodiac: Joined: 13 Dec 2009 Posts: 179 Location: IRELAND
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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 9:25 Post subject: |
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Worst part is I've just reshelled this Pajero and just had it taxed and tested.
The box was fitted a month ago from my previous Pajero
Fun times ahead |
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